New Owner

[jvekemans]

Hi Everyone,

I have just purchased a 1998 Ford Explorer after my Grand Cherokee gave up the ghost and decided to join the Forum.

I purchased my Explorer very cheaply (£600) as it has idling problems, it came with a set of O rings and an Oilway Restrictor Valve and Tensioner kit which I will be replacing soon. I have been assured that this will cure the problem. (It is only on a cold start that the Explorer revs high, within 5-10 minutes it idles and runs fine).

I am currently purchasing a service kit and serpentine belt so I can do everything at once, my question is in regard to buying a code reader.

I have purchased an ELM 327 V1.4a USB interface, however I cannot get it to connect, I was wondering if anyone can advise of where I can buy a scantool so I may read/reset fault codes. There are many on Ebay and wondered if anyone can advise as to which one will definitely work?

I've found a good tutorial on the site in regard to replacing the O rings and although iv'e searched and people have stated they use code readers I havent found any specifics so any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks everyone!!!

Joe

 

[jcasey007]

Hi

re the scan tool

I had the ELM327 USB version, and it did not work, I changed to the serial connected version and worked fine, problem is modern laptops no longer come with serial ports

if you just want to read and reset DTC then ebay £14 cheap one will work fine

cheers

Jim

 

[jvekemans]

Hi

re the scan tool

I had the ELM327 USB version, and it did not work, I changed to the serial connected version and worked fine, problem is modern laptops no longer come with serial ports

if you just want to read and reset DTC then ebay £14 cheap one will work fine

cheers

Jim

Thanks Jim,

is the U480 Scanner compliant? they all say USA vehicles 1996 onwards and european cars 2001 onwards.... this appears to be the cheapest UK one...

Thanks again.

Joe

 

[jcasey007]

yes the U480 is a fine basic tool for reading and resetting DTC's.

On pre98 explorers this is as much as we can expect

 

[jvekemans]

yes the U480 is a fine basic tool for reading and resetting DTC's.

On pre98 explorers this is as much as we can expect

Thanks again Jim,

Ordered so should receive in a couple of days, appreciate the help!! Mines a early '98 model so happy days. Bring on the service.........

Joe.

 

[janolsson]

Welcome to the forum Joe
The o rings and tensioner etc are referred to as the 00m12 kit
Some things to note;
you will need a 27mm spanner or deep socket for the tensioner, tho you may have trouble getting the socket over the tensioner as one of the coolant temp sensors will be in the way. If you decide to remove the temp sensor to get access do so with caution (maybe even spray the theads with penetrant before hand) as they can corode themselves in and on removal take out the brass insert in the plastic t stat cover.
When it comes to inserting the tensioner do so by hand and wind in as far as you can by hand being careful not to cross the threads. Also if the old copper sealing washer is in good condition then reuse this in preference to the new thin thing supplied with the kit. Also attach it to its place on the tensioner with a little RTV as you need it perfectly positioned to create a good seal.
You will need a long shaft T30 torx bit for the upper manifold bolts and the oil gallery plug for the restrictor pencil.
You may also need a couple of uj's and small extension for your ratchet.
Make sure you replace the lower manifold gaskets as these will be crunchy by now.
Whilst you are at it you may wish to do the rear tensioner at the same time

Good luck with the wrenching
Jan

 

[janolsson]

Oh and

:ttiwwp:

 

[jvekemans]

Welcome to the forum Joe
The o rings and tensioner etc are referred to as the 00m12 kit
Some things to note;
you will need a 27mm spanner or deep socket for the tensioner, tho you may have trouble getting the socket over the tensioner as one of the coolant temp sensors will be in the way. If you decide to remove the temp sensor to get access do so with caution (maybe even spray the theads with penetrant before hand) as they can corode themselves in and on removal take out the brass insert in the plastic t stat cover.
When it comes to inserting the tensioner do so by hand and wind in as far as you can by hand being careful not to cross the threads. Also if the old copper sealing washer is in good condition then reuse this in preference to the new thin thing supplied with the kit. Also attach it to its place on the tensioner with a little RTV as you need it perfectly positioned to create a good seal.
You will need a long shaft T30 torx bit for the upper manifold bolts and the oil gallery plug for the restrictor pencil.
You may also need a couple of uj's and small extension for your ratchet.
Make sure you replace the lower manifold gaskets as these will be crunchy by now.
Whilst you are at it you may wish to do the rear tensioner at the same time

Good luck with the wrenching
Jan

WOW!!!

Thank you so much Jan, invaluable info, really appreciate it, will take pictures as I go and post the results.

Thanks again for all your help.

Joseph

 

[jvekemans]

Welcome to the forum Joe
The o rings and tensioner etc are referred to as the 00m12 kit
Some things to note;
you will need a 27mm spanner or deep socket for the tensioner, tho you may have trouble getting the socket over the tensioner as one of the coolant temp sensors will be in the way. If you decide to remove the temp sensor to get access do so with caution (maybe even spray the theads with penetrant before hand) as they can corode themselves in and on removal take out the brass insert in the plastic t stat cover.
When it comes to inserting the tensioner do so by hand and wind in as far as you can by hand being careful not to cross the threads. Also if the old copper sealing washer is in good condition then reuse this in preference to the new thin thing supplied with the kit. Also attach it to its place on the tensioner with a little RTV as you need it perfectly positioned to create a good seal.
You will need a long shaft T30 torx bit for the upper manifold bolts and the oil gallery plug for the restrictor pencil.
You may also need a couple of uj's and small extension for your ratchet.
Make sure you replace the lower manifold gaskets as these will be crunchy by now.
Whilst you are at it you may wish to do the rear tensioner at the same time

Good luck with the wrenching
Jan

Just thought I would ask, here is a picture of the kit I was given with the Explorer when I bought it, there was no gallery plug or washer and am wondering if anyone knows where I can obtain them or just re-use the old ones?

http://s1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa363/jvekemans/


Many thanks,

Joe

 

[Howard]

Interesting. That is not the modified tensioner. The correct one has a 2 inch extra tube above the nut. I would fit the 'o' rings and leave it at that. It will cure your cold start idle issue.

 

[jvekemans]

Interesting. That is not the modified tensioner. The correct one has a 2 inch extra tube above the nut. I would fit the 'o' rings and leave it at that. It will cure your cold start idle issue.

Many thanks Howard, maybe it was just a replacement part and not the modified one? But as my Explorer displays no other noises etc..I'm gonna do as you suggest and just replace the o rings.

Thank you all, am so impressed with this site and its members, you really are all invaluable.

Joe

 

[janolsson]

As howard has already said wrong tensioner, bummer. New tensioner on its own is about £50 from frauds.
The oil gallery restictor pencil grub screw is missing from the kit also. The old one can be removed and reused but they have thread lock on them so my knarl up the torx too much trying to remove. If it comes out easy enough then use some thread lock on replacement. I'll have a dig around in my garage as i may have a new grub screw kicking around as i remember buying a kit just for the tensioner and gaskets. If i have one i'll let you know!

 

[Howard]

Just in case you have not found it here is a post with all the instructions on how to fit the 00m12 kit. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=487634&postcount=33 Hope that helps.

 

[ihpj]

Just wanted to add my belated welcome to the Forum

 

[jvekemans]

Just wanted to add my belated welcome to the Forum

Thanks for the welcome, I received my OBD II code reader today and it works a treat.. The codes I have are:

P0171
P0174
P1131 P
P1151 P

I presume these are all related to my O ring issue as stated by the previous owner when I purchased the Explorer? And should clear once I have put new O rings in place?

If anyone advises otherwise I'm going to follow Howard's lead and just replace the O rings as these were supplied when I purchased the Explorer the other week.

I am going to service it at the same time so if there are any tips on serpentine belt and plug replacement please feel free to share.

Thank you so much everyone.

Joe

 

[ihpj]

Follow Howard's advice That man be The Oracle

 

[janolsson]

Tips
Stick with 5W30 as other thickness will not work the tensioners properly. I avoid Fram filters as have heard bad stuff about them
The hard to reach plugs can be accessed thro the wheel arch.
Do one plug at a time so as to not mix up the leads.
when you are changing the serp belt check the belt tensioner as these can wear. If you haven't got a fan wrench you could do as i do; get a long shaft screwdriver and a hammer, then a sharp knock on the nut will crack it loose.
happy wrenching

 

[jcasey007]

looking at your DTC's I would also check the fuel pressure at the rail, for both banks to be lean like that would mean quite a few of the o rings are shot when a faulty pressure regulator or pump or blocked filter would also cause these symtoms.

cheers

Jim

 

[Stenasev]

If you haven't got a fan wrench you could do as i do; get a long shaft screwdriver and a hammer, then a sharp knock on the nut will crack it loose.

You don't need to remove the fan to replace the serpentine belt. Or was that for something I've missed?

 

[jvekemans]

looking at your DTC's I would also check the fuel pressure at the rail, for both banks to be lean like that would mean quite a few of the o rings are shot when a faulty pressure regulator or pump or blocked filter would also cause these symtoms.

cheers

Jim

Hi Everyone,

Well I replaced the upper and lower O rings on Sunday...... and may I just say, those 2 Torx #30 bolts at the back of the upper manifold certainly put up a awkward fight.... (although it doesnt help the fact that i've got Gorilla hands).

Now the engine idles at about 500rpm, cold start is fine and the engine management light went off. Happy days!!

However, the day after although it started up perfect on a cold start, it feels like it is idling a bit low fluctuating at 4-500rpm, and actually dies on occasion when in reverse.

The engine management light also reappeared with the same P0171 & P0174 codes... I erased the codes and they have not reappeared so is that normal whilst its run in a bit?

Now I still have the service to do (Oil change, oil filter, spark plugs, leads and air filter) which I am hoping to get done this Sunday and will hopefully rectify the issue, but just in case, if anyone can advise as to what else may be the cause or indeed what to look out for I would be most grateful.