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New parts Truck won't start... I need help

Kami808

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1991 Ford Explorer sport
Hai!
I have a Ford explorer 1991 sport 4.0l v6. Last 2 months I took the engine out to work on the rusty engine bay and engine maintain also did a lot of cleaning inside the engine,, last week I went on put everything back together first thing the engine started with no problem idle good then after a few cranks engine didn't wanted to start, so I went ahead brought a new fuel pump & fuel regulator then truck starts again a few more cranks later dies again... so I went to borrow a fuel pressure gauge I'm getting 35-40 psi when I turn on the key then 20-0psi when key off after a few minutes.

List of new Parts:
replaced all the gasket
Timing
thermostat
spark Plug & wires
Injectors
Freeze plugs
Oil & filter
Fuel pump & fuel regulator & Filter
starter solenoid
 


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natenkiki2004

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With a disconnected CPS, you wouldn't get spark or injector pulse. I'd check it in case it's loose but being that it does fire and idle briefly, I wouldn't suspect it.

First thing off the top of my head would be fuel pump relay. It could be getting power but maybe not enough voltage or intermittent power.

Does it backfire, miss or run rough before it dies or does it just cut off?
 




Kami808

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cps its connected correctly we had somebody check for spark and injector pulse and was working ok we also ohm the injectors(bosh) and all showed 14.8 -+.2
truck idle correctly no noticeable misfires or rugh idle at all, fuel pressure shows 40psi after the second pump...

so here its the long story short:
its funny because we thought was the fuel pump at first (didn't have a tester at that time but it was a cheap pump so we figure it was time to change it anyways)
and after we replace the pump the truck would start a few times but it will not start after I die out from trying to move it around(didn't gas it enough before letting the clutch go)so it would just crank.
so we waited 4 days for a warranty replacement fuel pump (we thought we had a defective pump) we replace it again and truck would start and run again but will stop running after a few times turning on/off so it will only crank after,
next day we change the fpr and same thing it will start and run and idle good but after turning it off it wont turn back on again it only cranks but no start,
so next day(again) we change the cables, plugs, fpr and injectors back to the stock ones and it wouldn't start at all only cranks,
so next day we switch all the the new bosh injectors, new fpr, new iridium plugs and cables and it did start again and run ok idle ok so we try to drive it around after putting some more fresh gas(was on the E) and run ok but once I did the same mistake of clutching out earlier the truck die out and after that it wouldn't start again, cranks cranks but doesn't wanna fire up:(
we had a friend check spark and injector pulse at the wiring and was ok he also shoot some carb cleaner on the intake to make it force start but nothing happen either only cranks

I hope that's a clear enough story lmk if need more details this is driving us insane need some more output before we take it down to the shop
we going to try a new fuel relay and a new coil(from a friend) and see if it makes any difference
thank you in advance

With a disconnected CPS, you wouldn't get spark or injector pulse. I'd check it in case it's loose but being that it does fire and idle briefly, I wouldn't suspect it.

First thing off the top of my head would be fuel pump relay. It could be getting power but maybe not enough voltage or intermittent power.

Does it backfire, miss or run rough before it dies or does it just cut off?
 




Kami808

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Wiring

before I put my new fuel pump relay first I want to make sure if these 4 plugs are on the right position these are located on the right side fender area under the hood.

2 plugs goes to the Trany and the other 2 goes to fuel pump









 




Kami808

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natenkiki2004

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There's a grey plug with nothing going to it, is that the way it was before? I can't recall if mine is like that.

Usually when you're in doubt, the wires will tend to lay where they usually go. After all the heat cycles and 20+ years, they usually hold shape pretty well.
 




2stroke

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Have you checked compression?
 




Kami808

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There's a grey plug with nothing going to it, is that the way it was before? I can't recall if mine is like that.

Usually when you're in doubt, the wires will tend to lay where they usually go. After all the heat cycles and 20+ years, they usually hold shape pretty well.

i looked inside those plugs they seem have not been connected on nothing.
I tried the new fuel pump relay and almost started on the first try then don't wanted to start again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eobDLaTZVjE
 




natenkiki2004

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A few thoughts;

Timing - Did you examine how it came apart? Are you sure the new assembly went together properly? There's keys so it's pretty hard to screw up but I imagine if you really tried, you could get it a tooth off.

Injectors - Where did you get them? What kind are they? Do you have the old ones to put in and try again?

Spark plugs - What plugs did you put in? Did you triple-check the wire order?




On the plus side... fuel pressure looks great. Engine cranking sounds good and even, no totally dead cylinders. Chances are it's just some minor detail that has been overlooked.
 




Kami808

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A few thoughts;

Timing - Did you examine how it came apart? Are you sure the new assembly went together properly? There's keys so it's pretty hard to screw up but I imagine if you really tried, you could get it a tooth off.

Injectors - Where did you get them? What kind are they? Do you have the old ones to put in and try again?

Spark plugs - What plugs did you put in? Did you triple-check the wire order?

Timing:
Timing was set to TDC and we also inspected it and compared it to the old chain all the sprocket and chain matched. (when the car did run we checked timing and was ok also vehicle idle and accelerate ok.

Injectors:
I also tried the old injectors and they didn't worked at all no start.
Bosch Upgrade 4 Hole Ford Ranger 4.0L 90-94 Fuel Injector Set
http://www.ebay.com/itm/13146966393...l?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=131469663935&_rdc=1

Spark plugs:
I have tried two new set of spark plugs Autolite Iridium XP Part#XP105 and Motorcraft Part# Sp-419. when I tried the motorcraft spark plug truck started first try then I shut it off tried to start again didn't start again. Yes I have tripe-check wire order and firing order.
 








natenkiki2004

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Timing:
Timing was set to TDC and we also inspected it and compared it to the old chain all the sprocket and chain matched. (when the car did run we checked timing and was ok also vehicle idle and accelerate ok.

Injectors:
I also tried the old injectors and they didn't worked at all no start.
Bosch Upgrade 4 Hole Ford Ranger 4.0L 90-94 Fuel Injector Set
http://www.ebay.com/itm/13146966393...l?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=131469663935&_rdc=1

Spark plugs:
I have tried two new set of spark plugs Autolite Iridium XP Part#XP105 and Motorcraft Part# Sp-419. when I tried the motorcraft spark plug truck started first try then I shut it off tried to start again didn't start again. Yes I have tripe-check wire order and firing order.


Sounds like you're covered there. Those are the same injectors I have and aside from extended initial crank when I put it all back together, it's been running perfectly fine since. My guess is that the fuel had to build up and push the oil out of the injectors.

I'd write timing, injectors and spark plugs off. The problem has to be elsewhere...

Have you verified a healthy coil with an ohm meter? Have you verified spark?




Just for shits and giggles (since I just wrote a post on this) disconnect both the SPOUT and Octane Adjust shorting bars. They're little grey plugs. One will be near the firewall with the EEC-IV connector and the other will be by the ICM/battery.

The symptoms are almost like the engine catches and then the computer doesn't know how to take over. I could be totally wrong but it's free and will take seconds to check.



For shits & giggles part 2, start unplugging sensors and see if it will start then. Like MAF, TPS & IAC. Also, what happens if you feather the throttle while cranking?
 




Kami808

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Thanks for all you guys suggestion :thumbsup:.
Today finally got my truck running :D
I unplugged all the sparkplugs and there was plenty fuel inside the block so I cranked the engine for 30 seconds with no sparkplugs connected and no fuel going in to let it dry then I put everything back together truck started right away.
Also I'm getting weak sparks hopefully a new ignition coil will fix it.
 




Kami808

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I wasn't sure to keep posting here or make new thread but still have an engine isuue I have looked on the forums but had no luck at all. Now my issue is engine have little power not enought what it should be i have replaced all the old sensors TPS,IAC,ICT,ECT,o2 cleaned maf sensor also when I installed new coil it feels it added power, catalytic was plugged had to remove the first left the second was still in good but no luck. No misfire a little bit of engine shaking fuel pressure is still good and no codes at all. I'm guessing timing might be off , ecm and compression.
any help is much appreciated.
 




Wolfie_85

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How about your ICM? That won't throw a code. I replaced mine and had an instant improvement in power (and less ping).
 




Kami808

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How about your ICM? That won't throw a code. I replaced mine and had an instant improvement in power (and less ping).

Alright thanks I'll try buy a new ICM.

Edit: just ordered a new ICM and MAF sensor from rockauto they will come next week I'll let you know if something changed
 




Kami808

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My parts just came in I realize my MAF sensor wasn't there was only the box but there was no MAF sensor inside I was like WTH packing box seems did never been opened just the MAF box was opened with no sensor :mad:

My new ICM was only in there so I installed it went for a test drive still no power only different it start faster then before.

also my throttle open all the way and resetting computer
 




Kami808

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Timing off?

just want to make sure
idle around 1k to 900.

 


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Turdle

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just want to make sure
idle around 1k to 900.


Did you remove the "timing advance jumper" ?

Edit, it is called the "octane bar" or "SPOUT" connector. You'll find it near the corner of the passenger side firewall and fender
 




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