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New parts Truck won't start... I need help

Kami808

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Did you remove the "timing advance jumper" ?

Edit, it is called the "octane bar" or "SPOUT" connector. You'll find it near the corner of the passenger side firewall and fender

Is it a bypass? its connected and I have not removed it.
 


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Kami808

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Weird but I never read Post #13 by natenkiki2004
after I read this I disconnected both spout and did the timing again here what I got. is it ok if I leave them disconnected?

With spout connected 20° without spout connected 10°

 












Kami808

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Alright I'm thinking changing the computer if doesn't do anything I might going to send it to the pro.
 




FR-425

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Well here' a thought.

Neutral safety switch.

Standard trans models have a switch on the clutch pedal as well as one in the trans. (activates back-up lights as well) when in reverse. Usually the first sign that one is going bad is no reverse lights.

Both need to be working to start. If one fails (i.e. clutch switch) you still have the one in the trans to prevent starting in gear.

May want to check it out before you take it to a shop.

If you bust out the wire diagram you can bypass both switches until you can get a replacement if needed.
 




Kami808

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Thanks for your thought FR-425
Edit: Is the neutral safety switch can cause a lack of power? my truck is running is just don't have power I have to set it up to low gear to go up a little hill.
 




FR-425

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Oh my bad, thread says NO START
 








Kami808

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Does it seem to run well other than lack of hill climb?

Could it be the rear drum brakes or emergency brake is dragging ?

It run great on the highway, here we have a lot of hills it barely goes up
No brakes or emergency breaks dragging

I found out that its running rich too much fuel this might be causing lack of power as I posted in post #14 , I will try out different injectors.
 




Turdle

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Double check the fuel pressure regulator. Make sure it is getting vacuum, check if fuel is entering the vacuum line. When you remove it, the fuel line that is, check for fuel smell inside the tubing.

Also, double check the fuel pressure. A cheap dial type air pressure gauge will work for this as long as it has a 60 psi or more range.

It should be around 35 psi at idle and rise quickly when you snap the throttle wide open.
 




Kami808

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Thanks Turdle for all your help! :)
 




Harper

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did you get it figured out?

had a customer once who had his engine rebuilt in a Mustang, because of lack of power, after that the new engine would run but cut off randomly, still lacking power, the cylinders were getting washed down by flooding because the computer grounding was NO good. Check all of your harness grounds and see if this helps. Just a thought, hope it helps ya
 




Kami808

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Hey Harper!
I will still had this issue if I put my stock fuel pressure regulator back on I decided to put a adjustable fuel pressure witch I have set on 18psi if I set it up higher it run pig rich now I think that injectors are firing too much I tried my stock ones still same, also I started another thread getting this code 16 - IDM circuit faulty which it may be my ECM may be fried not sure.
just to make sure I will check those ground connections thanks for you help!.
:salute:
 




Kami808

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Ground cable and ecm were corrosion with salt and rust. now I no longer run the psi so low its back to 35psi. Grad that is fixed. :thumbsup:
 




Harper

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Good deal
 




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