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New Radiator?

182driver

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February 21, 2025
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City, State
American Fork, UT
Year, Model & Trim Level
'07 EB V6
Hey all, I adore my 4th gen V6 but it's been throwing some tantrums lately. First the therm housing, then the water pump, now some slow leaks driving me crazy. I've got a slow ATF leak from the cooler lines, and a "mystery" coolant leak from the passenger side. I'm thinking a new radiator would solve my problems. I just worry about low ATF in the already finicky 5R55. Could a new radiator fix both leaks, or is it worth having a shop diagnose it? I've got the skills to do the radiator myself, just don't wanna replace it if it's not necessary. Also wondering if anyone has experience fixing leaky ATF lines. Thanks in advance, happy to provide better pictures if needed.
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Also very intermittent. Today haven’t noticed a single drop. A couple days ago, 3 medium puddles. Hopefully that means I still have atf…
 






You basically have to dry things off, run it and look, look, look until you find where it is coming from. There would be no surprise if it is the radiator as it is a very common problem on these and even more so if you are running the factory 20 lbs. cap. I went with a OEM Ford rad and 16 lbs. cap, haven't had any more troubles. The plastic thermostat housing is a very common spot and even though you replaced it, be sure to double check. I went with a aluminum one and don't think I'll ever have to touch it again.
 






You basically have to dry things off, run it and look, look, look until you find where it is coming from. There would be no surprise if it is the radiator as it is a very common problem on these and even more so if you are running the factory 20 lbs. cap. I went with a OEM Ford rad and 16 lbs. cap, haven't had any more troubles. The plastic thermostat housing is a very common spot and even though you replaced it, be sure to double check. I went with a aluminum one and don't think I'll ever have to touch it again.
Thanks for the reply. Already running a 16lbs cap unfortunately, looks like it won't be that easy for me... of course. I'm not too worried about the coolant issue, more the ATF issue. Coolant is cheap, a new transmission is not lol. Would it be worth trying to replace the o-ring/fitting into the radiator for the cooler lines, or is it worth just getting a new radiator? Also, is there a chance the lines themselves could be dry rotted? Didn't see any signs of leakage from the lines themselves, which makes me think it's leaking from the fittings. Thanks again!
 






There have been a few members that changed out the o-rings. Doing a search should provide some info.

My rad split on the top tank underneath the overfull container.

Here's some pics of the internal cooler.

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yup been there done this!!!! PITA. what I would reccommend is fill the new radiator tranny cooler BEFOR you install the rad. Yes it will make a small mess when you pull the plug to install the line...but thats all. The "all aluminum" thermostat housing from amazon has proven to be a worthy $50 AFTER some minor fixes! take some 60 grit sandpaper to the rad hose nipple part and use a worm clamp NOT THE OEM SPRING clamp and all has worked well. I would also recommend putting a ZIPTIE around the plastic tranny line holders to prevent them from falling of as they age.

Something else to check for a water leak of unknown origin..... the heater control valve, It's plastic on the pass side, connects the heater hoses together. Mine cracked and would squirt fluid up on the radiator???? like WTH
 






Thanks for your replies. Noticed something interesting, first off no more coolant leaks. Second off, I decided to check my ATF for the heck of it. Turned out to be overfilled by 1-1.5 quarts, provided I did it right. I left the T30 out until it was a rapid leak and tightened it back up. Transmission seems to shift 10 times better. I’m thinking this excess fluid might have created an over pressurized system, making it leak at the fittings. Any thoughts on this? Doesn’t seem to be leaking as bad anymore, maybe one drip every couple days. Also just wanna make sure I’m checking the fluid right lol. Checked it hot, transmission in neutral, steady drip coming out. Thanks again all.
 






Also just wanna make sure I’m checking the fluid right lol. Checked it hot, transmission in neutral, steady drip coming out. Thanks again all.
The way I do it and understand is correct, make sure vehicle is level, start and let run in park until trans reaches 100F, I let it run about 10 minutes when air temp is moderate, I also, with foot on brake shift through each gear and return to park, open the T-30 and it should be a drip, drip, drip. Not a steady run nor much time between drips.
 






Reviving this forum, sigh...
Sheared off the drain bolt on the pan, so yippee just dropped in a new pan and filter along with 8qts of fluid. Don't buy cheap ass pot metal bolts I guess. Anyways, there seems to be a slight whine present at higher rpms. Barely noticeable, shifts smooth and no slippage. Proper fluid level as well. It was doing it before I sheared the bolt, so I don't think the new parts have anything to do with it. My guess is that it's ran overfilled from factory and just acclimated to it, now that I'm running proper fluid levels it might be starving something of fluid. Any ideas? Not too concerned just don't want my transmission grenading on the freeway.
 






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