New Ranger owner

[peclarkjr]

Hey Guys,
Glad to be in the forums. I'm hoping to get to know people here. I just bought a 1991 Ford Ranger January 1st. It’s a project truck. I upgraded a Toyota Tacoma 10 years ago into a trail rig and would like to do the same to the Ranger.

First of all I’m impressed with the ford ranger. Some information about the truck now. Although it is a 1991 with 200k miles it has held up well. Doesn't burn oil or leak oil and runs strong. It appears the water pump is new.
Interior is pretty good zero rips or tears. The transmission is rebuilt.

Completed the following;
• Flushed and changed all fluids and filters
• New shifter motor for transfer case
• New battery
• New starter and starter relay
• Converted auto hubs to mile marker manual hubs
• New driver side door handle
• Rebuilt the manual shifter
• Installed a toolbox in the bed
• Installed 35x12.50r15 BFg MT KMs
• Replaced drive shaft flange bolts that were lose and I torqued them correctly.
• Replaced transmission mount bolts and torqued.


Here is what I’m doing in the future. This isn’t my daily driver so I plan to do this over time and have fun with it. Any ideas are helpful.

To be done:
• Dash board sensors and misc.
Items that are not functioning:
Odometer-speedometer – I use Waze app on my iPhone to tell how fast Im going.
Fuel gage – always carry a full gas can and refuel often.
More DC power outlets

• Replace all old worn bushings and grommets in suspension

• Grease all fittings

• Engine Compartment:
Research power steering whining noise.
Is there an upgrade for the power steering?
Replace PCV Valve
More to come

• Front Winch Bumper:
Self-fabricate- I have the design picked out.

• Winch: 12000LB Badland winch 300$ or 8000lb Warn winch.

• Rear Bumper fabricated bumpers:
Procured steel to self-fabricate--- will be done in a few weeks.
Drop down tow hitch

• Rock crawler type running boards for protection and a step. Self-fabricated

• Gears: Might need to go with 4:11, 4:56 or better. Currently have 3:55.


• Lockers:
Front and rear lockers
Rear powertrax lockright locker OR the Aussie Locker XD-48831 400$
Front: ARB cost 1000$ - looking for a cheaper option- but don’t want to run a locker fulltime in the front.
o Might weld the rear locker

• Lights
LED Lights for from bumper
Roll Bar with LED Lights
Remove bed and sand blast frame and primer/paint

• Interior
Remove all interior carpet and replace carpet with rubber / vinyl insert. Cover seats or replace seats with something more durable. Seats are fine no rips just want to cover the material so I don’t have to worry about them. 1991 Ford Ranger Pickup Reg Cab 4 Wheel Drive Vinyl: 115$; Auto Custom Carpets | Vinyl Replacement Flooring | ACC Carpets

• Trail Equipment:
Spare tire holder and spare tire
Pioneer’s kit – shovel, axe etc.
CB Radio and Antenna
Spot Light
Military grade jerry cans for fuel and water.

 

[RangerX]

I moved your post into the Ranger section.
Sounds like a great project! Which engine does it have?
Did it come with the 7" lift already on it? All suspension, or part body?
With 3.55 and 35s, I'm guessing it's not your daily driver. If you're going to wheel this, I'd go at 4.56 or more.

 

[peclarkjr]

Thanks RangerX.

Its a 4.0L V6.
The suspension was already on it.
It has a 3" BL.
The front suspension has F-150 coils.
The rear has a 4" block lift which I'm not fond of but its been ok so far.

I do plan to improve and replace the rear suspension setup. It works for now and everything feels tight but I know it needs to be better.

Im thinking at least a 4:56 as well.

Its not my daily driver. I drive a 350z to work daily and its another toy.

I did drive the Ranger to work yesterday due to the ice/snow we have and it runs well and feels like a tank but the Z car is built for the road so...

Thanks

 

[RangerX]

Ooh, 4.0, you have a great platform to build!
My truck is similar, I have the 4.0, 7" total lift, 4.56, lockers and 35s. I used to wheel it fairly hard, and always surprised people on how well it did.
I have well over 300,000 on it, and still going strong with all original drivetrain, except, a swapped in a manual tcase and an Xplorer rear axle.

 

[peclarkjr]

Ooh, 4.0, you have a great platform to build!
My truck is similar, I have the 4.0, 7" total lift, 4.56, lockers and 35s. I used to wheel it fairly hard, and always surprised people on how well it did.
I have well over 300,000 on it, and still going strong with all original drivetrain, except, a swapped in a manual tcase and an Xplorer rear axle.

Thanks.
I'm impressed with the 4.0's durability. My odometer quit and I bought the truck that way so I have no idea of mileage but the guy said 150-200k but probably more and it doesn't leak oil and runs pretty strong.

What is your lift make up?

I need to check out your rig.

 

[RangerX]

I have a 3" tapered body lift, meaning it's 3" at the front and tapers down to zero at the rear. It was my first mod when I bought the truck in 95.
I also have 4" coils stuffed into a Rancho 2.5" lift, along with 4" leaf springs.

 

[peclarkjr]

That tapered lift sounds interesting. Its the first time I've heard of that and I now see why it is useful. Does that level the body out for you?

What do you recommend I replace the 4" block lift I have in the rear? If I remove the 4" blocks in the rear and replace them with 4" Leaf springs will that do it? Or will I also need a 2.5" lift of some type? What does the 2.5" Ranch rear lift components look like?

I probably should get Rancho shocks as well.

Sorry for all the questions... I'm sure you get a lot of them.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[RangerX]

Yes, the tapered lift leveled out the body. There was a shop in San Diego doing them back in the 90s.

I'm trying to remember what came for the rear lift in the Rancho kit. It might have been blocks or an add a leaf, I'm not sure. But I did later get the 4" lift leaves. That would replace your blocks and not change your height, at least on paper. You could also search for and read up on using 63" Chevy leaves, some guys have done that.

Got any pics of your truck you can post?

 

[colintrax]

You should ditch the lift blocks.
I had a 1991 ranger, the speedometer quit working because the cable came off the back side of the instrument cluster. It'd be worth reaching up there and making sure it's pushed on tight.

Mine had the factory rubber floor, and I have to suggest you do something else. It traps water between the rubber and steel... rusting away the floor board. Personally I used a rubber spray paint on the floor, looked okish. But the floor got pretty warm. Carpeted floor mats were a must.

 

[amberanger]

My best under 20 dollars mod, at least the one I enjoy most as for the memories it brings back of my ford history and youth.

Push button starter in place of the cig lighter. Key start still works but I just love my push button.

 

[peclarkjr]

Hello RangerX,
I need some advice. I'm running 35s with a 4.0L and 3:55 and its seems just fine. However I probably should go with a better gear ratio. I was offered a set for front and back of 5:13's by Richmond Gear. He wants 200.00 they have never been used. Do you think I should go with that low a gear?

My thing is this. If I'm wheeling and need to go into a lower gear...why not just put the truck in LOW GEAR.... lol. Anyway...I've driven it on the highway it gets awesome gas mileage the way it is. Would 5:13's be too low? He had bought it for his 4 cyl Ranger with 33's and I have a 4.0. Just wondering what your thoughts and advice are?

Thanks!

Paul

 

[madbutcher]

200 for front and rear gears.. i would do it

 

[FROADER]

Hello RangerX,
I need some advice. I'm running 35s with a 4.0L and 3:55 and its seems just fine. However I probably should go with a better gear ratio. I was offered a set for front and back of 5:13's by Richmond Gear. He wants 200.00 they have never been used. Do you think I should go with that low a gear?

My thing is this. If I'm wheeling and need to go into a lower gear...why not just put the truck in LOW GEAR.... lol. Anyway...I've driven it on the highway it gets awesome gas mileage the way it is. Would 5:13's be too low? He had bought it for his 4 cyl Ranger with 33's and I have a 4.0. Just wondering what your thoughts and advice are?

Thanks!

Paul

Since it's not a daily driver, I'd go for it since that is so cheap! I had 4.56s with my 35s and 36s and wish I went lower, and 5.13s is what I would have done. Even in 4-lo, it's not really low enough for real crawling type of terrain.

On another note, here is RangerX's rig in it's element before it got shipped to Kaui for that good life.

This one is with 37s on it.