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New Rotors/Pads - Now NO pedal

87MCProstar

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I know there are probably tons of threads on this topic but I don't seem to find the right keywords. Here is my issue

I replaced both front rotors and pads, bleed the brakes and pedal is rock hard while the car is off. Then I go to start the car and pump the brakes and I have NOTHING. What am I doing wrong?
 



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Rock hard pedal while the car is off is do to the power booster being depleted of vacuum boost when you pumped/bled the brakes. Perfectly normal, the vacuum boost should have resumed as soon as you started the engine.

What do you mean by you have nothing? Pedal goes to the floor? Still rock hard?
 






Pedal goes to the floor, I've bleed all 4 brakes and MC 3 times.

I've pulled MC off booster to look for leaks and is bone dry
 












I don't hear a vac leak, hose off booster looks fine, but I had a hard time following it behind the intake
 






He would still have a hard pedal with a vacuum leak, like as if the engine was off. Is the vehicle braking with the pedal all the way to the floor? When I had to do my brakes the last time I had to pump the pedal a few times to built up pressure in the master cylinder. Once I did it worked fine.
 






Brakes still work but takes a long time to stop. I've tried driving down and back on my street to give it time to 'warm' up but still nothing
 






Now here is the next question, did the MC ever go dry? If it did, then air might have possibly gotten into the ABS pump which may account for the low/no pedal feel when the truck is on.
 












If the bleeding was done "corectly", you still probably got air in the ABS. NEVER bleed the brakes on an ABS car, if you don't know how to do it without letting air into the ABS module.
Now you need to open the valves inside it with a specialized OBDII controller.
 












If the bleeding was done "corectly", you still probably got air in the ABS. NEVER bleed the brakes on an ABS car, if you don't know how to do it without letting air into the ABS module.
Now you need to open the valves inside it with a specialized OBDII controller.

Now that is not a true statement. I have bled brakes on several vehicles with ABS with no ill effects. The main caveat is to keep the master cylinder full. However, there is a chance that air got in the ABS module. That's a chance one takes with bleeding one's own brakes.
 






Sweet so now i have to bring the truck to garage?

Make sure they understand that you need the ABS pump bled and that they have the right tool to cycle the system.
 






Now that is not a true statement. ....However, there is a chance that air got in the ABS module.
So... my statement, that included the word "probably", is actually true :)

There is also a chance that the bleding was not done right anyway.
If the helper does not signal corectly the "pedal" bottom, then air can get in there. Writeup.
 


















NEVER bleed the brakes on an ABS car, if you don't know how to do it without letting air into the ABS module.

I was referring to this statement. I know that on occasion air does get into the ABS pump but brake bleeding on an abs system is not something you should never ever do. There are several write-ups on here about messing with brakes and it's even in the Haynes manual.

87mcprostar: Just check with your shop first to see if they have the tool to cycle the abs system. I had one shop that bled the brakes but not the abs system.
 






...but brake bleeding on an abs system is not something you should never ever do.
Unless you don't know exactly what are you doing. That's what i said.
 






Unless you don't know exactly what are you doing. That's what i said.

Granted, I just don't want people to be scared to try. Now that we have both clarified our points, back to the OP, I apologize for the sidetrack.
 



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I always use a one man bleeder kit. It is great to get air out but also to replace all the old fluid.
 






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