New Sub Question

[Nixthebomb]

Well I found a JL Audio sub and A Kenwood sub for 120 each.
The JL Audio sub requires 100-300W RMS, its max is 600W. [JL Audio 12W0v2-4]
The Kenwood requires 50-400W RMS, its max is 1200 [Kenwood KFC-W3012]
Neither RMS requirement exceeds my amps RMS output (460W @4ohms)

My question is which sub should I go with? Will exceeding the JL Audio's 600W max with a more powerful amp blow he speaker?

 

[Anime]

If your amp's RMS output is really 460 watts @ 4 ohms, it will blow either of those subs since that exceeds both of their max RMS wattage ratings of 300 and 400 watts.

Perhaps 460 is the maximum wattage output of your amp and not the RMS wattage?

 

[aznboi3644]

Subwoofers do NOT "require" the rated RMS power.

That number is merely a thermal rating. Power handling largely depends on the enclosure and loading environment.

Also "MAX power" is a made up number...it is not an indication of how much power a subwoofer can handle.

Looking for a subwoofer by merely the rms power handling is the complete wrong way to choose a subwoofer.

Look at the T/S parameters and see what subwoofers will fit the installation and user preferences.

 

[BigBoom]

i agree with the above. also to mention, subs can take an 'x' amount of extra power, as long as it's a nice clean signal. i'd rather over power it by 100 watts of clean power than underpower it 50 or 100 watts of dirty power.

also, with impedance rise, and with as much as music fluctuates, i doubt that speaker will ever see the full power at the impedance it's wired to. just the nature of the beast.

and yes...pay no attention to anything that's rated at 'max' power. that's just jibberish

 

[Nixthebomb]

Well I was just wondering because my current sub wouldn't really do anything when volume was lowered after tuning amp at a higher volume.

I am just really getting into learning most things a bout car audio, but I'm not sure what you mean T/S parameters. Care to explain?

EDIT: any recommendations on any sub that is decent to good quality, or any specific brands to look at

 

[Anime]

What brand is the amp and your current sub? You might have other problems that aren't going to get solved by just putting in a different sub.

If it's a cheaper brand amp that probably won't really put out the rated 460W RMS, you can probably use it, or maybe you'd be better off getting an amp that will work with either the JL or Kenwood sub.

I'd say Kenwood (or Pioneer/Premier) is a good brand for amps/subs and even receivers for getting into car audio.

JL is good stuff but usually slightly more expensive.

I'd go with ditching the 460W amp in favor of a $99-199 Kenwood amp to push their sub.


But really, as stated, you should be looking at the big picture of the installation rather than just messing with getting some sub to hook up an amp to. Sure, you can find a sub that will handle 500W RMS and hook up the amp to it, throw it in a big box, and it will boom. You don't really have to worry about T/S parameters, but at least laying out your system is a good approach.

 

[Nixthebomb]

I've got a kenwood KAC-7202 amplifier, and a Power Acoustik PW3-15H

I've decided on a Cerwin Vega sub instead
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12859_Cerwin-Vega+V-Max122.html

 

[BigBoom]

that's a nice sub. put it in a good box and i dont think you'll be disappointed

 

[Nixthebomb]

Cool, reassuring, now I just have to do all the math so I know how big of a box to build.

 

[BigBoom]

i have a box calculator available for download if you're interested in trying it it's very accurate. tho due for an update i've been working on.

 

[Nixthebomb]

Sounds a lot easier than what I've been doing, lol... just pick some numbers and do the math

 

[BigBoom]

http://cid-1e28f7d3956a626f.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/.Public?uc=1&wa=wsignin1.0&sa=466373941

try that out it's due for an update i've been working on, but will be delayed because i gotta design and build a web page that's due in 2 weeks lol. so hopefully i can get it updated asap. it's almost done