New to Explorer

[chefduane]

All engines require maintenance. Some more, some less. Is a BMW 755i junk because it requires more than regular maintenance? Is it junk because it is more expensive to own? As long as it is agreed that there are exceptions to every rule, then the rule is proven incorrect.

I think there is a thread somewhere about high mileage SOHC's that prove the 'junk' theory completely wrong. If you don't like the SOHC because you perceive it is too expensive, requires more maintenance, and you think it is more costly, then don't buy one. If I had a choice between a V8 or a SOHC V6 now, I go with the V8. Does that mean the V6 is junk? Certainly not, and calling it junk would be ridiculous.

PS: While I am not rich, I do pretty well. And I do my own maintenance. I don't call the SOHC junk. So that theory is also off base.

 

[Robman]

I guess by "junk," I'm saying it's of least value when compared to the alternative motor/transmission combinations.

I know, I guess it's a harsh word.

 

[chefduane]

Agree on both statements.

 

[Flash]

Trouble is, the V8 doesn't come with low range.

 

[jimmyznutz]

Here's an exception to that rule. My 99 Sport SOHC now has 247k on stock timing components. Regular oil changes and new tensioners have kept everything smooth and quiet. My engine has never leaked a drop of anything and I wouldn't be apprehensive to drive it across the country tomorrow. Take care of your vehicles and they will take care of you. Sounds easy enough huh?

 

[BubbaFL]

I owned a second gen explorer from 97 until I shipped it to the boneyard last year.

My advice - if you want a commuter car, buy a 4-cylinder Toyota. If you need a truck, an F-150 will get the same mileage, be far better at hauling and towing, and hold better resale value.

 

[XLTrunner]

Here's an exception to that rule. My 99 Sport SOHC now has 247k on stock timing components. Regular oil changes and new tensioners have kept everything smooth and quiet. My engine has never leaked a drop of anything and I wouldn't be apprehensive to drive it across the country tomorrow. Take care of your vehicles and they will take care of you. Sounds easy enough huh?

Hasn't there been some discussion on other threads that the new replacement tensioners seem to be weaker than the factory originals in regard to the amount of force applied to extend the plunger? And, because of that, there is no real gain to be had by replacing them as part of routine maintenance?

 

[Flash]

Hasn't there been some discussion on other threads that the new replacement tensioners seem to be weaker than the factory originals in regard to the amount of force applied to extend the plunger? And, because of that, there is no real gain to be had by replacing them as part of routine maintenance?

Yep, I saw that.
My new tensioners are working fine.

If you used a pre-oiler the whole discussion would be moot.

 

[jimmyznutz]

Hasn't there been some discussion on other threads that the new replacement tensioners seem to be weaker than the factory originals in regard to the amount of force applied to extend the plunger? And, because of that, there is no real gain to be had by replacing them as part of routine maintenance?

This very well may be true, but on a 17 year old truck the tensioners had definitely seen better days. New '99 oem tensioners may have been better than the replacements available today but can't compare to the tension of the new part after that long. I could easily compress my old tensioner and the replacement was nice and stiff. Now, they most likely won't last as long as oem, but replacement is easy enough.

 

[chefduane]

I've been considering replacing my original OEM tensioners in my '98 SOHC. Last summer I did find some small timing chain guide pieces when doing an oil change. My thinking was that new tensioners would make up for the chain slop/slap induced by damaged guides. But Koda made a good point in another thread about doing additional damage to the guides with new tensioners as they could put additional stress on the already damaged guide. Suggestion was perhaps to leave well enough alone. She runs great and has some noise at startup, but other than that she's solid as a rock. 206K+ miles. A dilemma for sure.

 

[Flash]

I've been considering replacing my original OEM tensioners in my '98 SOHC. Last summer I did find some small timing chain guide pieces when doing an oil change. My thinking was that new tensioners would make up for the chain slop/slap induced by damaged guides. But Koda made a good point in another thread about doing additional damage to the guides with new tensioners as they could put additional stress on the already damaged guide. Suggestion was perhaps to leave well enough alone. She runs great and has some noise at startup, but other than that she's solid as a rock. 206K+ miles. A dilemma for sure.

Nope. When the rattle goes away that's because the oil pressure has built up enough pressure to relieve the tensioner spring of its temporary duty at start up.

That means when the engine is running the tensioner will be under as much pressure as a new one will be.

Besides, the damage is done by the chain thrashing around, not by pressure from the tensioner.

 

[chefduane]

So you are suggesting that changing out my tensioners to new ones would be a good thing?

 

[koda2000]

So you are suggesting that changing out my tensioners to new ones would be a good thing?

Duane, You've already found broken pieces of the cassette in your oil pan. Changing the tensioners now will not help your situation. Pulling the engine and chaining all the timing chain related components would renew your engine, but is pulling the engine worth it at your mileage? That's up to you.

 

[chefduane]

Duane, You've already found broken pieces of the cassette in your oil pan. Changing the tensioners now will not help your situation. Pulling the engine and chaining all the timing chain related components would renew your engine, but is pulling the engine worth it at your mileage? That's up to you.

No way I'm going to pull the engine.:thumbdwn: Not only do I NOT have the expertise to do it but I ain't gonna' put that kind of $$$ into a 206k+ vehicle. I was just wondering if changing the tensioners would actually buy me more time before I retire her, or she retires herself. Heh.

 

[masospaghetti]

To the OP: My advice is to stick with the 4.0 OHV + 5-speed manual or the V8. They don't really command a price premium over the troublesome SOHC and 5R55E models.

My advice - if you want a commuter car, buy a 4-cylinder Toyota. If you need a truck, an F-150 will get the same mileage, be far better at hauling and towing, and hold better resale value.

Some people don't want a pickup, and don't want something as large as a F150. The V8 in the 2nd gen Explorer is the same powertrain that went into some F150's.

My 2 door OHV has averaged 20.7 mpg over the past 90,000 miles. It's not a 4-cylinder Toyota, but it's been my daily driver for a long time.

Regarding cash for clunkers: You know there's something seriously wrong when the government is subsidizing destruction of working capital. Such a waste of resources.

 

[Tech By Trade]

No way I'm going to pull the engine.:thumbdwn: Not only do I NOT have the expertise to do it but I ain't gonna' put that kind of $$$ into a 206k+ vehicle. I was just wondering if changing the tensioners would actually buy me more time before I retire her, or she retires herself. Heh.

I wouldn't bother. The damage is done. If there is plastic, and you cant do it yourself drive er til she grenades. Just know it could be tomorrow or it could be in 5 years. When mine went it ended up folding the cassette in the front. It didn't smash the valve cover like most do. It also didn't jump a tooth so the valves and pistons were still in operating order. I was able to salvage everything but the cassettes chains and gears. Most aren't as lucky. Crap design.

 

[J_C]

People say crap design but it's all about context. It's a huge deal now that our vehicles are worth so little but some supposedly bullet proof engines are worse.

Take the venerable GM 3800 series. For years it was prone to intake manifold gasket failure around 50K mi, and again each 50K mi. (more or less, the lower gasket was improved but upper was the more common problem and aftermarket parts were often worse than OEM), at a repair cost around $1000+ a pop from the stealership.

In that case if you had a 200K mi vehicle you could have paid over $3K to have someone fix the problem 3 times already, and now have your vehicle totaled out from the cost of the 4th repair... and yet people say those engines are long lasting.

I guess my point is, lots of vehicles this age need major repairs by 200K mi. if some drunk or teenager texting while driving didn't plow into and total it by now.

 

[Josh P]

I'd rather deal with the sohc issues than the weak ass transmissions behind it. I want to put a sohc in my 86 merkur xr4ti. To the OP, find the nicest explorer for the price you want to pay and expect it to need some work, most 20 year old vehicles do.

 

[chefduane]

People say crap design but it's all about context.

Yeah, that's been my point all along I guess. I mean, I (and many others) have gotten 200k+ miles out of what >some< folks say is a crap design and total junk engine. Well, it may not be the BEST design and not the MOST solid engine around, but there are lots STILL on the road. I also think that while most vehicles will get retired do due various mechanical issues, the contributors here (who are obviously more in tune to automotive design/mechanics), are more attentive when a SOHC grenades or just craps out.

 

[Robman]

If I was paid to design an engine that would be replacing a current proven design, and I created something less reliable and less economic, I think I'd get fired.

R&D should have gone into squeezing another 40hp from the OHV engine.

I know I wouldn't feel like going on a nice long road trip with an engine that rattles and has plastic bits in the pan. Keeping in mind that a flatbed tow job would likely amount to half the cost of the vehicle now a days.

My 4L OHV has 340 000km on it and has zero rattles or ticks.. Leaks oil out of nearly every orifice but that's besides the point. I've just reminded myself I should check my oil

I'm not out to offend anybody but you have to call a spade a spade, the SOHC/5r55e is far less reliable and more expensive than the other combinations, and no we aren't talking about BMWs or whatnot. I've owned 2 sohc/5r55e machines and I have 1 sitting out in the yard, I'm afraid to put it on the road because I know it's going to leave me stranded at some point. My OHV 5 speed runs great but the body is getting a little rough from good ol' Canadian salt/winters.

Now that I've knocked ( pun intended ) the sohc/5r55e, I will say that it's a smooth motor and tranny combo when functioning properly and gave my friend's '07 Chev 5.3L a run for it's money.

This conversation is much like power windows vs manual windows, how much do you want to spend?