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New user/ 97 X XLT SOHC

smittyzz

Member
Joined
April 16, 2013
Messages
19
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0
City, State
Bennington VT
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Explorer XLT
Okay for starters, new user, love the forums, very informational! Been poking around for about a week or so, and finally decided to join. For starters, again, amazing forum!
And secondly, I'm a 20 year old guy, Ive owned my share of vehicles lol
1990 jeep Comanche full camp wooden bed with a 4 inch lift 4.0 straight
1990 Toyota pickup 22re
1996 GMC Sonoma 2.2 4banger
2000 s10 4.3vortec

I currently just bought a 1997 ford explorer XLT SOHC
Its in decent condition, needs some work but no big deal.
Here's what's up with it.
I paid 900 cash let me know what you think.
Also I'm mechanically inclined, and I have a lot of mechanic friends, so will be doing most if not all work out of a shop.
What he told me when I bought it was that it needed a front drivers CV joint a little muffler work and rockers
What I found after buying it:
Gas gauge doesn't work(I think it works when key is off{I thought it was just emptybut put gas in and didn't move} found a sending unit pump assembly on eBay for 80 brand new)
Inner tires are worn (believe lower ball joints( also hitting bumps there's some noise in the front end)
Rockers are completely gone(inner and outerfound slide ons for 40 a piece)
Drivers side unlock button doesn't work but passenger does
Driver sore can control all windows but no other door can control there window
Needs oil change a year ago lol pretty black
Keyless entry doesn't work ether.

Now the main things, it starts usually right up the first time, but after a little bit of running time it starts hard, and after it idles for a while, it will usually idle at 600 and after a bit it will start kind of running rough, then it will kick its self up to a grand to fix its self, but it keeps doing that one or two more times until it seems like its choking for gas, give it gas ROMs kinda go up but runs like **** and quickly dies, try to start it right after usually won't start for the first try like its not getting gas then it will start. When it dies I'm pretty sure I can hear the fuel pump, or something, winding wicked
And when giving it gas to rev it up it sometimes lags like it won't shoot up like it should(thinking that could be from the fuel pump not giving me the right pressure)
Andd it should be able to roast the tires right? Well I can't do a burnout for ****, has like no take off power at all, it like lags till the RPMs are up then it it will accelerate good, its like lacking power.. I'm hoping its from bad fuel pressure.
Now, a few more things to note, its a SOHC body has 187k but the guy said it had a motor swap and that the motor has 130k
The motor seems to run good no noises at all besides an exhaust leak under the driver, it just seems to be lacking power
Like take off has no power but once going will go no problems, driving down the road drives great and has no issues getting up to speed 60+ just seems to be lacking take off power, and a lot of it
It shifts great no slips or anything ether
It might have an intake leak but I'm not sure, Nbd
My main issues are the house gauge and lack of power.
Needs a quart of tranny fluid
And ATM I lost my only key so I can't do much more until its registered and I get a title so I can get a new key made, but I would love input,
Thank you all,
Smitty
 



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Nobody has nothing? really?
 






Sounds typical. Give it a full tune up then unhook the battery for a while and then see what happens. Your key isn't a chip key so you should be able to get one made pretty easy. Oh make sure you dont have vaccum leaks or the intake leak also. Do all that then see how it acts.
 






the V6 SOHC engine wouldn't be my first choice (or my second choice) but as long as the timing chains are quite, it's not a horrible choice for $900.

i don't know about roasting tires. the SOHC engine makes decent power, but you're driving a vehicle that weighs in at about 5,000 lbs with tall tires.

locking and window switch problems are often chased down to the loom in the driver's door jam and/or the loom running under the carpet, near the door sill in the rear.

does the CEL light during the key-on bulb test? it sounds like you should have some codes. note: it can take up to 500 miles for some codes to re-appear if the PO had clearded them before you bought it. at any rate, i'd start with a tune up (new plugs/wires/filters/PCV valve/oil change/clean the MAF/TB/IAC) and see what improves.

you're lucky you don't have the RFID keys or you'd be looking at a pretty big number for a replacement(s).

CV axles, ball joints and other suspension parts aren't too big of a deal to replace on these trucks. figure on somewhere around $400 for premium replacement parts, less for service grade. just keep in mind that every $1 you have to spend to replace parts makes the $900 purchase price increase, but if you're capable of doing the repairs yourself you'll know what you have when you're done (and the satisfaction that comes from having done the work yourself).

You're probably correct about needing to replace the fuel gauge sending unit, in the fuel tank, to get the gauge to work.
 






Lol can ya tell koda hates the sohc
 












A few more things to note, I need to replace the lamp wiring where the overhead thing is lol
And the CEL was on when bought and still is
And the motor, it runs great besides the like choking for gas every once in a while, no notice or tick or rattle at all which I'm happy about
Was planning on a full tune up with 5w30 sin. Oil
And for the key, it'll be around 50 for 2 brand new keys.
I think I might have an intake leak, ik I have an exhaust leak, makes the truck sound like **** lol
And about the tires, its having trouble spinning on dirt lol like its lacking take off power idkkk it goes good tho.

About the windows, could you explain a little more? Are you talking about bad wires or sensors or what?
For a garage that charges 45 an hour how much do you think a full tune up would be? If I don't do it myself.
And yea I'm pretty sure I need lower ball joints and at least a CV joint
Thanks for your guys input!
Ohh and a new fuel pump sending unit is 80 new on eBay, or I can find OEM used ones for around that price not sure what to pick, but I sadly can't do anything till its registered so I can get the title in my name so I can get the keys made lol
Hopefully next week we will start getting some progress done

What are your preferences on the rocker skins vs the slide on weld ones? Which would be better for the long run?

The only thing I can really do right now is check the wiring for the doors lol so any details or how to s would be great!:)
Again thank you! And if you want I'll upload a picture of it for you!
 






regarding locks and windows: the wires tend to eventually break in the driver's door jam area because of the door being opened and closed a ga-zillion times. there is also a wire connector under the rear carpet which gets corroded and/or comes apart. both of these problems are very common on older gen II's..
 






yea but the thing is only i can run all three other windows, i think that might be due to the passenger window lock wire breaking? and how do i go about checking thiese wires? do i have to take the door off?
also what do you think would be the reason for the keyless entry not working? more wiring issues?
 






you take the rubber boot back covering the wires and you take the cover off the black cylinder-looking thing in the door jam. pop the little black cover off the center and there's a 10mm? bolt under it. it's tight trying to work in there, so taking the door hinges loose is an option.
 






yea i see it, now what am i going to be digging into when i open this up?
 






CEL on means it wants to tell you something. Get the codes read!!!
It will never roast the tires, buy a Corvette if that's your driving style.
 






yea i see it, now what am i going to be digging into when i open this up?

all the wires for the locks and windows pass through that cylinder. you're looking for any broken wires.
 






Owned two checked lol, and I will as soon as I can, I can't do anything really with it right now, and its not my driving style(anymore lol) more of a family vehicle for me and my in the near future fiance!
And alright thanks, will keep you guys informed and stuff
 






Welcome to the forums. I'm a recent joiner myself. There aren't any photos of your Explorer, but if you got a decent one at $900, you'd be doing very, very well in my neck of the woods.

We have the same year, SOHC V6, etc. The forums here are invaluable. I've worked through a number of issues (mostly the annoying kind you have) using the threads and photos here. The one on keyless entry is exhaustive and really good. I doubt the Ford guys know any more than the information in that piece. In fact, judging from some of the comments left by others, the dealer service organizations know a lot less.

Cheers,
 






you take the rubber boot back covering the wires and you take the cover off the black cylinder-looking thing in the door jam. pop the little black cover off the center and there's a 10mm? bolt under it. it's tight trying to work in there, so taking the door hinges loose is an option.

and here's a lnk to a youtube video regarding the corroded splice in the rear that causes problems: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N88FYRW0B1w
 






Since you say that the windows all work from the master switch, but none work from the door switches - make sure that you don't have the "Window Lock" switch on. Don't ask me how I know! :mad: If not that, look for a broken lt blue/black or red/lt blue wire in the door bundle koda told you about. Good luck.
 






Will be checking this all soon, but my new issues is I can't have my title searched, and the locksmith won't do it without the title.. So I have to drill out the lock cylinder, I found a new one on eBay for under 20 with new keys, and I'm going to have that ordered tonight, I just need some help with getting the old one out.
So what's the easiest method? Driving a screwdriver in the keyhole? Drilling it with a 3/8s bit? It drilling the pin with a 1/8th bit?
I don't care as long as it comes out! If the screw driver works it will be my first resort!
And thank you again Bob, I have checked the window lock, so guessing its a wire!
And to lonnie, welcome, and great work on getting her going, I'll try posting a pic, the main things cosmetically is the completely gone rockers other then that barely no rust
 






Little update, she's registered, and new keys made up from locksmith. She needs a new back handle for the inside because I broke it trying to get the door to open from the inside. AMD found out its a wiring issue with the passenger speakers..
Any hold with the speaker wiring or the back doors not opening on the inside would be great!
 



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Another update, got new plugs in and she runs allot better! Gap was so wide I could fit a quarter in there lol also got the passenger speakers wired straight from the CD player. I used the stock wires so I didn't have to fish my own wiring through the door. Anddd got the passenger windows to control there windows. Ball joints are good but passenger outer tie rod end was shot so changed that still has some thumping noise in the front end tho. I need both passenger inner handles and drivers side under assembly as it's froze and won't lock or unlock
Still need an oil changea CV joint and fuel pump sending unit and she will be great
With the stuff I've done sop far she runs and drives allot better pretty happy for 900
Of light sometimes blinks but I just unhook the battery to fix it.
 






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