New Wheel Bearing Looseness

[eric4welches]

On my 1992 XLT (4WD), I replaced the front rotors and wheel bearings. It seems that I just can't seem to get the right "tightness" or torque. I follow the forum threads to set the wheel bearings, then back it out, then tighten to 16" lbs (finger tight). I then check the play of the wheel/bearing assembly by grabbing the tire at 12 and 6 to see if it's loose by rocking it top to bottom. I also spin to tire to get a feel of the "drag". I just can't seem to get the tightness correct. If there is too much "wobble", I tighten the wheel nut so the retaining ping fits into the next "notch" but seems to tighten the wheel too much based on the drag when I spin the tire. With the retaining pin in it's previous slot, it seems like there is play in wobble when rocking the tire.

I've looked looked behind the tire for other reasons for the looseness but can't detect any other reason for the wobble when I think I have the right torque or tightness.

Suggestion on this would be GREAT.

 

[natenkiki2004]

I was told by the previous owner of my Explorer (who is a seasoned mechanic and did many repairs to the Ex, including bearings, rotors and many brake jobs) to tighten the wheel bearing locknuts down as much as possible while spinning the rotor so nothing binds and then back the nut off 1/4 of a turn. I did that on both sides not long ago and there's no wobble and no excessive binding. Seems perfect.

I will say though, this is with the manual locking hub conversion which has different locking nuts for the wheel bearings.

 

[Maniak]

When wheel bearing tightness falls between 2 notches I normally go for the looser one BUT, it depends on how tight it is getting more than how loose it gets..

If I get some extra drag thanks to going to the next notch, that is ok. If I get a lot of drag (spin the tire and it doesn't make a few revolutions) I'll loosen the nut.

Loose bearings don't normally wear out, but again, that is all in moderation. If you have lots of looseness, things will be loose and steering/handling will suffer plus you can get the bearing to wobble on the race etc..

Too tight and things burn up..

That is my take on it which I got from an old timer years ago when I first started doing wheel bearings..

~Mark

 

[eric4welches]

Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately, I don't know of an experienced resource to reach out to. Kinda muddling through these issues - common sense-wise.

 

[4x4junkie]

How I do mine:

Tighten the bearing nut to 35 foot-lbs while spinning the rotor a few turns in each direction (this compresses and distributes the grease).

Back the nut off half-turn, then retighten to 15 INCH-lbs (basically finger-tight).

-If auto hubs, stick the lock key in, put the hub cam, splined washer & c-clip back on it, then the locking hub and tire, Done.

-If manual hubs, place the lock ring over the lock pin on the inner nut (if the pin doesn't line up with a hole, flip the washer over, do not turn the nut).
Install outer locknut and tighten to 225-250 foot-lbs (making sure the inner nut & lock ring doesn't turn with it). Put the splined washer, c-clip, locking hub & tire back on, Done.


I've not had any issues with the bearings on mine doing as above. Be sure you're using quality USA-made bearings & races (Timken, etc.) and that you are not mixing different bearing races with different bearings (new or old).

Hope that helps

 

[adrock430]

Took me forever to get this right, had to change a number of bearings over the years.

The two nut system comprises of the first nut to get at the proper torque that allows the rotor to spin. Then put in the spacer. The second nut is the pinch nut that prevents the first nut from backing off due to the low torque. Just really crank on the pinch nut. I've had no problems since.

 

[Maniak]

Since the OP mentioned having to go to the next notch, you know he is using auto hubs with the single nut with key system. Different animal.. you have less options with that one.

~Mark