Newbie has an appointment to buy his first explorer tomorrow, a little help! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Newbie has an appointment to buy his first explorer tomorrow, a little help!

fabianoliver

Elite Explorer
Joined
July 28, 2022
Messages
181
Reaction score
175
City, State
Montevideo - Uruguay
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
Hello all, newbie here, from Uruguay
May be tomorrow i'll buy my first explorer.

Tomorrow i'l go to take a look to the only first gen that's on sale here. They are hard to find. Manual transmission, he sais clutch is ok.
The seller sais to me that is original paint, that everything is working fine, doesn't consumes oil nor water, and has no rust....
150.000 miles
So semms a good one.
Here i post some pics.
Can someone please give me some tips, on what to look for?, some rust clasic points to look at?
Any other tip is really appreciated.
I love this truck, i hope it will be mine soon.

Thanks for your help!!

WhatsApp Image 2022-07-28 at 8.16.30 PM.jpeg WhatsApp Image 2022-07-28 at 8.16.09 PM.jpeg WhatsApp Image 2022-07-28 at 8.15.17 PM.jpeg WhatsApp Image 2022-07-28 at 8.14.42 PM.jpeg
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





The 91-94 Explorers are super tough. The 5 speed manual is a great choice if it's working properly. Check the fluid level, and make sure that it's not leaking from the rubber plugs at the end of the shift rails.. This manual tranmission uses red ATF, not heavy lube.
 






The biggest weakness of those years is the auto transmission, so no worries for you!
Other weak points are auto hubs, and shift motor on transfer case, but I have a feeling yours might be manual on both?
My 1993 truck with the 4.0 engine went for 370,000 miles with zero engine problems. They can last a very long time if you change the oil regularly.
Welcome to the forum!
 






Welcome to our collective back yard! Always good to see a fresh Explorer owner around!

Little things, but check all the seals on the doors and windows. My 2nd-gen Sport leaks at the sun roof, and water comes in through the overhead console and at the left rear interior panel. After nearly 30 years in existence, checking all those seals on your 1st-gen would be prudent.

Make sure all the electronics and controls work; wipers, washers, power locks, not familiar with 1st gens and can't see a t-case shifter, but if it's got 4-wheel drive and the ESOF, make sure it engages and disengages properly. Things you might overlook in favor of good mechanical shape, will come back and kick you later.

She certainly looks nice, inside and outside! 150k is low mileage, for a 1st-gen. She's a classic, so treat her nice!
 






Hello all.
Well, here how it was this morning.
The truck looks good, outside, it has been painted, i don't know when, but it0s too clean to be original...
The body is rust free, all clean under the seats, and on the doors, and pillars.
The doors needs to be pushed a bit to close, i don't know if it's normal, or it has has¡d an accident at one point.
The interior has some broken door handles, is this normal after 30 years?, driver and the one below are bad.
Wipers and water "Jets" are working front and rear, as the lights on the sun visors.
Horn, and instruments are ok.
Seats with original upholstery, dirt, but not broken, and sunken.
The truck starts ok, goes up on revs alone a bit then keeps low revs.
There's a noise in the engine compartment, he sais is "the steering pump".....here's a video.
The truck runned ok, with worn brake pads.
It has AVM manual hub locks, he turn them, he press the 4x4 button, and it engages, as the low range ( after pressing 3 times) the indicators on the instrument pannels lights up.
It runned a bit noisy ( i'm newbie on that may be is normal).
The cruise speed works ok.
Chassis seemed ok, here some pics, some light rust, whats your opinion on that?
The heater core was disconected.

All in all, i'm evaluating the reparair costs.

Here some pics, i wait for your comments....





Thanks for your support!!

Fabian

IMG_0923.jpg IMG_0910.jpg IMG_0854.jpg IMG_0891.jpg IMG_0957.jpg IMG_0959.jpg IMG_0862.jpg IMG_0934.jpg IMG_0923.jpg IMG_0910.jpg IMG_0854.jpg IMG_0891.jpg IMG_0957.jpg IMG_0959.jpg IMG_0862.jpg IMG_0934.jpg
 






The power steering pump is famous for being noisy, but I can’t tell from your video if that’s what it is.
The inside door pull handle are a common break. If you mean some outside handles are broken, that’s not a hard fix, if you can get the parts in your country.
The overall condition looks pretty good for its age. Remember it’s 30 years old!
I tried to convert the price in your money into USDollars, but I’m not sure it’s correct, something like $3400?
You said the price is high, try to bargain for a good price.
 






@fabianoliver If it's already been painted, that's probably part of what sets the price - a good paint job can be very expensive. For comparison, as RangerX said, that $3400 in USD could buy you JUST a decent paint job without the free car included, where I come from. I just bought a loaded 2000 Limited for $3500 USD, but here, used Ex's are a dime a dozen - the price was higher than I expected, but Limiteds are "rare". Do a bit of research online for comparable vehicles in comparable condition, in newer and older years - we all want you to buy an Explorer, but we don't want you to be ripped off.

Those pics make her look really nice. I see some surface rust on the frame rails and the rear differential, you'll want to have that reversed and rust-proofed (use the search function to check out others' methods, and decide which products and methods will be best for you).

The interior door panels and handles on the 1st-gens are very old by now, and they weren't the strongest from the start. Finding them broken, stuck, or otherwise non-functional isn't uncommon at all for its age. If you can push him for a lower price for the rust and the door handle, you might want to try. If it's worth it to you as-is, then go for it - your call.

For stuck handles or latches that require force to close - lubricate the bean dip out of 'em. I used up half a can of WD-40 spraying the locks and latches on my two 2nd-gens last week, and it solved several problems. The right door on my Sport wouldn't open unless you thrashed on it from inside, and the tail gate latch mechanism was so stiff that I broke two handle connectors (stupid plastic thing should have been made of metal). Just lubricate everything that moves, use it a few times, lubricate again, use it a bit more, and lubricate one last time - if that doesn't fix the problem, then I gaurantee it will help to prevent it from happening to the other latches and locks.

Not sure about the high revs thing, once in a while my '99 Sport, '03 Durango, and '14 Elantra will start at high revs and just hang around 1000 RPM's until I cut and restart, or start moving and shift past 1st gear. Might be related to climate or conditions causing malfunction, or possibly some designed function for some reason or other. I can't offer much help there.
 






Thanks Ranger and Dintdobbs, for your repplies.
Prices here are mad.
He's asking 12000 U$S, y goes I'll offer to him 8K, and he's going to ask 10K.....even if the gasoline costs 2U$S/liter.
I need to figure out how much I need to spend to repair the pump, to buy a heated core, brake pads, and inside latches and plastics.
I need to send the
All this stuff should be bought in the states, and bring it here, luckily prices of parts in the US are good.
The truck doesn't have the spare tire, there's a broken steel cable hanging. How's supposed to be the spare tire system?
thanks again!
 






Mine's a 2nd-gen, but the spare tire winch is basically identical between 1st and 2nd.

Basically, you have a winch cable with a T-piece at the end; you insert the jack handle with the hook on the end into the hole above the bumper (the tail gate has to be open in order to see the hole) and use the tire iron to crank the winch up and down, like an upside-down jack.

You put the spare wheel's hub opening on the T, and then just crank it up into the well. Usually you can fit a stock-sized spare tire under there even with a trailer hitch receiver mounted.

I'd try the lubricant before you buy any parts. If you get a penetrating lubricant, it can unstick mildly seized mechanisms.
 






Mine's a 2nd-gen, but the spare tire winch is basically identical between 1st and 2nd.

Basically, you have a winch cable with a T-piece at the end; you insert the jack handle with the hook on the end into the hole above the bumper (the tail gate has to be open in order to see the hole) and use the tire iron to crank the winch up and down, like an upside-down jack.

You put the spare wheel's hub opening on the T, and then just crank it up into the well. Usually you can fit a stock-sized spare tire under there even with a trailer hitch receiver mounted.

I'd try the lubricant before you buy any parts. If you get a penetrating lubricant, it can unstick mildly seized mechanisms.
Got it dintdobbs, I'll try to find the T-piece, and tools, cause I've no see it in the truck, just to know the price...

Another thing that takes my attention, was: the the seller turns on the engine, the fan started to work, is this normal? the engine was at ambient temp......may be he just leave it working 100% of the time?, I asked to him, and the said that he didn't
knows..
 






I can't speak for the fans, or the 1st-gen engines in general (OHV I believe); for that, I'd use the search function at the top right corner and see if anybody else has had that occur, and of course wait for others to chime in here. Lots of great folks on this forum with 1st-gens!

Does it have an electric fan, or is it on the drive belt? I can't see it in the picture of the engine bay, nor am I familiar enough to know what aftermarket options were available for the 1st-gen/OHV engines. It doesn't look like anything has been tampered with under the hood, so I'm assuming it has the mechanical fan. If so, it should run all the time, unless I misunderstand some element of its design (on my SOHC's, the fan is on a pulley and runs whenever the engine is on).
 






I can't speak for the fans, or the 1st-gen engines in general (OHV I believe); for that, I'd use the search function at the top right corner and see if anybody else has had that occur, and of course wait for others to chime in here. Lots of great folks on this forum with 1st-gens!

Does it have an electric fan, or is it on the drive belt? I can't see it in the picture of the engine bay, nor am I familiar enough to know what aftermarket options were available for the 1st-gen/OHV engines. It doesn't look like anything has been tampered with under the hood, so I'm assuming it has the mechanical fan. If so, it should run all the time, unless I misunderstand some element of its design (on my SOHC's, the fan is on a pulley and runs whenever the engine is on).
txs Dint, i'll take a look on other pictures i've taken., to see if it's belt driven, good point
 






The fan on the 1st gen has a heat dependent fan clutch, however if it is even malfunctioning it would not be major malfunction. In a warmer country like Uruguay it would certainly not make a performance difference over the life of the vehicle.
 






12000 USD, wow!! That IS crazy high!
The fan always runs, as soon as you start the engine.
The idle will be high when you first start, over 1000, then should drop down after maybe ten seconds.
Here’s what the spare tire winch looks like 1991 - 1994 FORD EXPLORER SPARE TIRE MECHANISM | eBay
 












I was wondering if he meant $1200.00
No, saddly is 12K

Thanks all for your repply.
Looking at the engine pictures were the 2 hoses from the heater core are ( disconected by the way, i assue you need to dismantle part of the dash to replace it), i've senn a broken metal hose, what part is this one? AC? ( i know he has unmount the AC copressor to "repair it")
here a picture
txs!

radiador.jpeg
 






Circled piece is a (broken) diverter valve. It allows the A/C to be more effective.
 












Thanks Ranger and Dintdobbs, for your repplies.
Prices here are mad.
He's asking 12000 U$S, y goes I'll offer to him 8K, and he's going to ask 10K.....even if the gasoline costs 2U$S/liter.
I need to figure out how much I need to spend to repair the pump, to buy a heated core, brake pads, and inside latches and plastics.
I need to send the
All this stuff should be bought in the states, and bring it here, luckily prices of parts in the US are good.
The truck doesn't have the spare tire, there's a broken steel cable hanging. How's supposed to be the spare tire system?
thanks again!
$12,000.00 for this car is way to much , as it has some issues that may cost$$$. I just looked up the cost of living in your country for comparison. Cost of living in Uruguay is, on average, 16.96% lower than in United States.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Back
Top