Newby with transmission problems

[daydk1]

Hi everyone. I just joined this forum and have been searching for info that might help me with my transmission. I have a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT 4X4 with 3.0 six cylinder engine and automatic transmission. I've owned the truck for a couple of years. When I bought the truck, it had a slight transmission problem. I took it to several transmission shops to have it checked out, but they could not diagnose the problem without getting inside. Here's what it does...

When I first bought the truck a couple of years ago, it had around 134,000 miles on it. When the truck was cold, you could shift to drive and take off with no noticeable problems. However, when the truck warmed up, the problem became apparent. If you shifted from Park into Drive, the transmission would slip on takeoff. I had to shift into 2nd, let it engage, then shift up into Drive and it would take off fine. As long as the shifter stayed in Drive, it would take off fine from a dead standstill. However, if I shifted out of Drive into Reverse or Park, I would have to go back into 2nd, let it engage, and then shift up into Drive and take off again. I had the transmission drained, put new fluid and filter in and added Lucas transmission additive. This did not help.

Two years later, I now have almost 140,000 miles on the truck. The transmission problem is getting worse. Now I have to shift it to 2nd anytime (cold or hot), let it engage, then shift up to Drive to take off. Anytime I come to a stop, it now wants to slip, shutter and vibrate while taking off. Sometimes I have to really rev up the gas to get it to take off. Any ideas on what I'm looking at here? Should I try a rebuild or would I be better off to just try and find another used transmission from a salvage yard and replace it? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! It sounds like it has bad valve body gaskets.

 

[daydk1]

Is this something I can do myself? I've never worked on a transmission before other than taking one out and putting another one in. Never been inside one.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Yes, you could do this. You will need a 1/4" drive In/Lb torque wrench. The sticky thread in the transmission section called the 5R55E valve body rebuild diary should have the information that you need.

 

[nitro71]

Damn Brooklyn! You are the man!

 

[daydk1]

Thanks. I think I'll give it a shot. I just hope I'm not getting in over my head. I'm just average when it comes to mechanic work, but I'm all about saving money where I can.

 

[nitro71]

Keep all the parts. Organized. I like zip lock baggies for the bolts and nuts. Keep them organized by group. I've never had a tranny apart but I'm thinking some pics with the digicam might help if there are many small pieces for reassembly. Draw pics on some carboard with a sharpie if you have to. I do that sometimes when I know I won't remember how to put something back together. Go slow. Ask for help!

 

[daydk1]

OK, I've read through the diary two or three times. I think I'm getting myself confused. Just to fix my transmission problem, would you recommend just going with the Ford VB rebuild kit and replace the EPC solenoid? The truck has 140,000 miles on it. Or should I get either the Transgo or Superior kit too? I'm not looking for a dramatic performance enhancing deal, just wanting to get the truck back to driving like it should without slipping and shifting properly.

Thanks,
Darrell

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could rebuild it with all of the extra stuff or buy a new one from WWW.800700Tran.Com.

 

[daydk1]

I've got the valve body out and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary on the separator plate gasket. One corner stuck to the valve body when I was taking it apart. I've checked the ohms on the shift solenoids and the TCC and EPC solenoids. Everything is in tolerance except the ECP solenoid. It's showing 6.4. I think the top end on the tolerance in the diary was listed as 5.7. I put in a new EPC solenoid and it also registers 6.4. Any idea why this would be? Would this be causing the problem? Should it be within the 3.1 - 5.7 range? If so, what will fix this?

Thanks,
Darrell

 

[BrooklynBay]

The EPC is modulated, and a resistance test isn't the only way to check it. What color band is the front filter on your EPC solenoid?

 

[daydk1]

I don't know. I've already put it back together and threw the old solenoid away. However, I still have the same problem as before. Will not take off from Drive. Have to go into 2nd and wait for it to engage and then shift back up into Drive. As the temperature of the truck goes up, the RPM's have to rev higher and higher to get it to engage to take off.