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Newly purchased 01 V8

He's 16, he has about 15 hours of driving under his belt so far. I think it was just nerves
Thats definitely valid. Especially when you first start, its daunting! Littleton being just out of Denver, I can understand his nerves! (As an LA driver)
 



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Could be your son has been watching the Isuzu commercials from the 90s...



 






"just wanna make sure you can keep it between the navigational beacons... haha between the buoys i tell ya!"
 






So today I wanted to get the non operational lift gate working. Since my next project is to replace the rear shocks and brakes I'll need to drop the spare, and I figured out pretty quick that can't be done without opening the lift gate. A couple YouTube videos later and I had an idea of what I was in for.

Got the inside panel off fairly effortlessly. I was able to open the gate but it took some strength to move the mechanism to open the lift gate. Got that open and immediately tried lowering the spare. To my surprise it lowered nicely.

Now to fix the latch so the lift gate opens all the time. To my surprise the famous clip that attaches lever to the rod to activate mechanism was simply detached. I lubricated the mechanism and reattached the clip. Now lift gate opens perfectly. I'm assuming the mechanism was just so stiff the clip popped off, but a little wd40 got it operating nice and smooth.
 






New shocks installed. Now it's level front to back. Rides pretty nice too!
1000005018.jpg
 












Now that it's warmer out a problem has popped up. When driving if you hit 3000 rpms the engine starts squealing very loudly. It also trips the the check engine light. I reset the codes and all was well for a few days, but then the cel came on again when the squeal started again. I'm assuming it is one of the idler pulleys as the noise changes with rpms but not sure why the cel comes on (honestly haven't read the newest code yet, I use forscan).
 






Now that it's warmer out a problem has popped up. When driving if you hit 3000 rpms the engine starts squealing very loudly. It also trips the the check engine light. I reset the codes and all was well for a few days, but then the cel came on again when the squeal started again. I'm assuming it is one of the idler pulleys as the noise changes with rpms but not sure why the cel comes on (honestly haven't read the newest code yet, I use forscan).
my guess would be maybe leaning out. but no clue haha let us know what then code is and we can help! is the CEL on only while squealing? thats new if it is
 






Read the codes. Looks like p0340. If I rev it up to 4k in my driveway, let off the gas it makes the noise and lasts a few seconds at idle then goes away. I cleared the codes and the cel and afterwards I can't rev it up and hear it. I know it will come back, but not sure what is causing it.
1000005139.jpg
 






My research indicates my problem sound is most likely caused by the cam position sensor synchronizer. Cheap fix seems to be pop off the cam position sensor, blow out the area with air, then drop a couple drops of oil in to help lube the synchronizer. I'll try that this week and see if that solves my problem.
 






/\ Yep, squealing cam sychronzer....semi common........and 5.0 easy replacement on this unlike the 4.0 ohv, and I see the 2001 second gen they did a better job routing the brake lines, earlier versions they are close to the UCA on drivers side and make that job a headache removing / installing bolt.... so two positives on your 2001 V8 👍
 






The oil will only buy you time, but that is a great way to isolate the cause of the noise
 






I removed the cam position sensor today and blew it out then dropped some oil in there. This completely stopped my squealing sound (for now).

Also replaced rear brakes (pads and rotors) and bled all brakes. Stops a bit better now and somehow took care of some of the clunking that I was hearing. This also fixed my "wirring" noise somehow. When I removed the passenger rear rotor the parking brake pad had separated from the shoe, so I'm assuming that was the source of some noises. I didn't bother replacing the parking brake pads, no need for those haha.
 






You can gut the entire e brake system if you wish, just know you won’t have an emergency brake
Not like you had one before! Hahaha

Nice purchase, these things are tough! 01
Last year of the 5.0 and probably the best
 






So I just changed the fluid in the transfer case. when I removed the fill plug a lot of fluid came out of it, like almost half a quart. this is with the vehicle sitting level in my garage. I drained the rest from the drain plug, then proceeded to fill with Mercon V. was able to add not quite the required 1.3 quarts (fluid started coming out of the fill hole). I did see another post of someone that had the same thing happen to them on their 1 owner v8 AWD, but is it normal for there to be so much extra fluid in the transfer case? I measured what came out and it was very near 2 quarts, even though the manual says 1.3 quarts is required.
 






Very difficult to over fill one of these because as you saw the fluid starts to come out the fill
Port.

Was any of it water?

There is no way atf can transfer from the transmission to the t case the t case is sealed off

the trans and t case do not share a vent line on these models, so there is really no other way I can think of that an additional .5
Quart of atf found its way in there other then somebody filled it up that high or it’s water


Now with that said you should be running Mercon iii (dextron) or
Ford transfer case fluid in that case

NOT MERCON V
In the awd t case
On the back of a bottle of ford Mercon v it says “not for transfer cases”

You will find conflicting info on this subject
But if you check your owners manual it will state
Mercon iii for the awd t case

I have personally seen Mercon v destroy old t cases
I run Mercon iii in them and have never had an issue
 






There didn't seem to be any at all in it.


Would the suggested fluids from post 5 in the thread work? Glad it is easy to change the fluid haha.
 






Yes
Transfer case fluid or
Mercon iii (which is simple called dextrin/mercon) is cheap atf and will work great in there

I use valvoline atf

Change that fluid once a year and the t case will last a long long time
 






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