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Nitrous 1994 Explorer

About a month ago I got Nitrous on my 1994 Explorer and I've been waiting to try it out at the track. Wednesday was the first Test & Tune night at Bandimere Speedway. Currently spraying 50 HP with NGK TR6 spark plugs. After a couple runs the spark plugs looked great. Probably gonna try a 75 shot sometime soon. I gotta thank user [MENTION=91966]jd4242[/MENTION] for his help on getting the kit installed.

Up here at 5800 feet above sea level, cars run a lot slower. With only a KKM intake and Dynomax muffer my fastest run ever was 19.30 at 70 mph.

Here at the time slips
20160428_115846_001.jpg

Quite a big drop in ET and good MPH gain. This kit was definatly worth it whether it's racing or just messing around on the streets.

Video of me at Bandimere Speedway
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OF8yaVFDRQE

This is the kit i used: http://www.amazon.com/Nitrous-Express-20421-10-Proton-System/dp/B004706C0Q?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Pf-4tbpAL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=BVXFR76Y48TZXKX4W7Z1&ref_=pd_aw_sim_sbs_263_2&ref_=redir_mobile_desktop#immersive-view_1456289394090

The setup:
10lb Bottle
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Fuel and Nitrous lines
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Solenoids
20160325_111437.jpg

Engage Switch Off/On
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Fire button
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Do you have any pics of the current exhaust and how the muffler is mounted?

Here are the pics. I labeled the different adapters.
Excuse the crappy welding job we did.
 

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Here are the pics. I labeled the different adapters.
Excuse the crappy welding job we did.

That's a pretty good budget setup for street use. Nice job making use of the stock pipes.

Since you have what looks like the Dynomax 17733 muffler with an offset inlet/center outlet, just installed with the center in and offset out to fit with the stock pipes, you could use it with the Walker 2.25" 4-door front pipe and Dynomax 2.25" rear pipe if you turn the muffler around, but you'd probably have to cut off the adapters and weld everything together again.

It might be better to keep the muffler in the center inlet/offset outlet you have now and just get shop-bent 2.5" pipes, that way you won't need adapters, the cat-to-muffler pipe will be nearly straight (it'll probably need a slight bend so the muffler is parallel to the body) and the rear pipe can be used as a template for bending a new one since it will be about where it is now.
 






the cat-to-muffler pipe will be nearly straight (it'll probably need a slight bend so the muffler is parallel to the body)

2.5" pipe between the cat and muffler right?
 






2.5" pipe between the cat and muffler right?

Yeah, I'd do 2.5" pipe for the whole thing. Aluminized like the muffler, not mild steel like the stock pipes. Mild steel rusts like crazy where it snows, as you can see. Aluminized still rusts eventually, but it lasts longer.

Make sure the shop fabs up a cat-to-muffler pipe that has the same flanged connector as the stock pipe so you can bolt it to the cat. DO NOT let them cheap out and cut off the rear of the cat and weld the cat-to-muffler pipe to it!

There is a cone-shaped high-temp gasket the pipe sticks onto for an airtight seal, so you may want to get one from a parts store or see if the exhaust shop carries those as well. You might be able to re-use the one that's on there, but with new pipe, you may as well use a new gasket.



You may want to disconnect the front pipe from the cat yourself, so those bolts are easy to remove the second time at the shop, and also you might want to drop the exhaust and saw off the rear pipe at one of the welds, since it's a little tricky to get the rear pipe out (need to disconnect the passenger side sway bar link at the frame) and it might be an ordeal the shop will charge $$$ for. Either that or they are likely to break out a torch and just cut it in pieces.

The shop may include welding the pipes to the muffler and welding the hangers on in the price, but if each weld costs $$$, you may be able to get them to just tack the front pipe and hanger on the muffler, mark how the rear pipe goes into the muffler, drive home carefully with only the front pipe and muffler on, then pull off the front pipe/muffler and weld everything together yourself. Just an idea since some shops charge $30+ per weld and you can sometimes save $100+ welding it yourself. Of course their welds will look better but $100 saved is $100 towards other go fast mods.

I hope you can find a shop that will do a spectacular job for a decent price. Maybe drive around one day and have a few different exhaust places look at the current setup and give estimates on fabbing up 2.5" tubing.
 






Electric fan is in! From a SN95 mustang at the junkyard. Had to do some cutting and customization but works quite well!
 

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Make sure the shop fabs up a cat-to-muffler pipe that has the same flanged connector as the stock pipe so you can bolt it to the cat. DO NOT let them cheap out and cut off the rear of the cat and weld the cat-to-muffler pipe to it!

There is a cone-shaped high-temp gasket the pipe sticks onto for an airtight seal, so you may want to get one from a parts store or see if the exhaust shop carries those as well. You might be able to re-use the one that's on there, but with new pipe, you may as well use a new gasket.

What would be the best way to connect the 2.5" pipe and the stock pipe coming out of the Cat through the flanged connector?

I'd prefer to do this at home to save some money and it's always fun working on my car. This job doesn't sound too difficult. I plan on dumping the exhaust right after the muffler with a downward tip. Will the hangar that holds the muffler be able to support the weight tip after the muffler?
 






Electric fan is in! From a SN95 mustang at the junkyard. Had to do some cutting and customization but works quite well!

Nice..how is it hooked up?where is your sensor?
 






Nice..how is it hooked up?where is your sensor?

Bottom of the fan clips into the two holders the stock fan was. Used some zip ties to make sure it was secure. The top part i used some simple screws and zip tied the top cover made from a piece we cut.

Haven't gotten a sensor yet. I just wanted to get it up and running first.
 






Bottom of the fan clips into the two holders the stock fan was. Used some zip ties to make sure it was secure. The top part i used some simple screws and zip tied the top cover made from a piece we cut.

Haven't gotten a sensor yet. I just wanted to get it up and running first.

Gotcha. Id suggest a good bosch 75amp relay,you can get them online pretty cheap..for the sensor people have had good luck with the cheap Hayden probe sensors but use the 75amp bosch relay,not the cheap one that comes with the kit
 






Gotcha. Id suggest a good bosch 75amp relay,you can get them online pretty cheap..for the sensor people have had good luck with the cheap Hayden probe sensors but use the 75amp bosch relay,not the cheap one that comes with the kit

Thanks for your help. i'm really considering getting a underdrive pulley. I was reading around and some people had problems with the alternator not getting charging enough. Should this be a concern if i get one since i now have the e fan?
 






Thanks for your help. i'm really considering getting a underdrive pulley. I was reading around and some people had problems with the alternator not getting charging enough. Should this be a concern if i get one since i now have the e fan?

Id get a overdrive for the alt.check ebay,might wanna go ahead and get that now anyways..or upgrade to the 130 amp alt for a 97 ohv 4.0
 






Id get a overdrive for the alt.check ebay,might wanna go ahead and get that now anyways..or upgrade to the 130 amp alt for a 97 ohv 4.0
Any specific size for the overddrive pulley? Also if i got the overdrive for the alt and and underdrive pulley would i need a different length serpentine belt?
 






Any specific size for the overddrive pulley? Also if i got the overdrive for the alt and and underdrive pulley would i need a different length serpentine belt?

Really only one size pulley.you shouldnt need new belt for just the alt pulley but yes your need one if you get a underdrive crank
 


















What would be the best way to connect the 2.5" pipe and the stock pipe coming out of the Cat through the flanged connector?

I'd prefer to do this at home to save some money and it's always fun working on my car. This job doesn't sound too difficult. I plan on dumping the exhaust right after the muffler with a downward tip. Will the hangar that holds the muffler be able to support the weight tip after the muffler?


The correct way to connect the cat-to-muffler pipe is using a "ball joint" flange. It's basically a horn shape that seats over a thick heat-proof gasket and uses the spring-loaded bolts so the muffler and pipe behind the cat can "flex" a little bit and move independently of the Y-pipe and cat, avoiding the pipe breaking from the weight of the muffler as it bounces on the rubber hangers when driving around.

Walker makes some pre-fab ball joint flanges:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-41726

That should be a 2.5" size, so you can use it to stick a 2.5" pipe in and go back to the muffler with 2.5" pipe and no other adapters. The only thing is I think the cat-to-muffler pipe is going to need a slight bend in it, based on what the stock 2.00" pipe looks like, so you may still at least need to go to a muffler shop and have them bend the straight tubing for you.

If you want to do the rear pipe yourself, you can certainly just buy that Dynomax rear pipe. It's mandrel bent and will flow a lot more than the stock 2.00" pipe on it now, but maybe not as much as a custom 2.50" pipe all the way back. If you get the Dynomax rear pipe I would get a new 2.25" to 2.5" adapter, and do some test fitting and maybe cutting so the rear pipe and adapter give a smooth transition inside the pipe for the best flow.

My biggest concern with using the Dynomax rear pipe is that it is made for a center rear outlet, and if you stick with the center inlet/offset outlet you have now, it won't line up right. It might not seem like a big deal, but moving the rear pipe inlet even a few inches to one side or the other is the difference between it hitting the shock/swaybar or the spare tire, and keeping it perfectly centered inside the exhaust heat shield.


If you want a completely DIY install (and no welding), you can do it, but you'll need to get the stuff I mentioned earlier - the Walker cat-to-muffler pipe from a 91-92 4-door, the 17731 2.25" in-out muffler, and the 93-94 Dynomax rear pipe. Bolt the pipe to the cat, use band clamps to attach the muffler to the front and rear, and either weld on a muffler hanger or use a U-type clamp with a hanger on it - or weld a hanger to a U-clamp. You only get 2.25" front to back, but it still flows more than 2.00" tubing.


Of course, you can always just use the 2.50" pipe in the front and dump the rear out the muffler to test out how well it works on the track. The rear pipe just helps get the exhaust gases out from under the vehicle and keeps it quieter so the exhaust noise doesn't resonate from hitting the road and underbody.
 






Is there a way in which I could by pass the sensor and have a switch where i could turn it on say when im in the staging lanes?

Yea.just put a regular switch in the cab..one side to 12v and the other to the relay,same spot the sensor hooks to.also would be where you want to run a a/c compressor power wire to,so when your a/c compressor is on the fan kicks on also (might not really need this in your location) if you even still have a/c and if it doesnt work,rip all of that out,save weight
 






Of course, you can always just use the 2.50" pipe in the front and dump the rear out the muffler to test out how well it works on the track. The rear pipe just helps get the exhaust gases out from under the vehicle and keeps it quieter so the exhaust noise doesn't resonate from hitting the road and underbody.

I had the shop weld the 2.5 inch pipe between the cat and muffler. They said i wouldn't need to replace the flange which is fine because then it would save me some money. I ended cutting the rest of the pipe off myself and clamping a tip to the muffler. It really sounds good at idle and low speeds. It's not too loud when cruising around. On acceleration it does seems to get up a little more. Looking forward to see what it does at the track. I'll post a video later on how it sounds

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Sorry to tell you, that shop did a really, really poor job. I guess you went to a shop that doesn't have a tubing bender and only welds on straight pipe?

Looks like a 2.25 or even 2.00 inch pipe expanded to 2.50" on the ends to me.

You still have the 2.00" inner bottleneck of the factory flange, which they just welded the pipe over for looks, that doesn't functionally remove the restriction. You can also see how the pipe is much smaller in the middle than at either end. It should be a constant diameter except for any bends.

You still have the restriction between the converter and the muffler. It may be slightly less than it was with a full 2.00" pipe before, but you could have a whole lot less restriction with a full 2.50" pipe from the cat to the muffler.


The pipe welded to the muffler should be the same outer 2.50" diameter as the inner diameter of the muffler inlet and look more like this:

87464d1330242508-dynomax-vt-muffler-inlet.jpg


If a shop doesn't have the ability to make a 2.5" ball joint flange, they should be able to get one of the pre-made ones like I mentioned, or buy your own and bring it in.


I'd go back and call the guy out who did that and have them redo it the right way or refund your money and go to another shop. Unfortunately this is common with exhaust and auto shops in general, they rip people off and do poor work. I was serious when I said you should visit various exhaust shops and get estimates - you sometimes have to shop around to find a place that won't do this type of work and take your time rather than rushing and just getting the first place you find to do whatever they want.

Don't let people do this kind of stuff to you and your ride.

A poorly done exhaust leaves horsepower and torque on the table and also just plain looks bad.
 



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Sorry to tell you, that shop did a really, really poor job. I guess you went to a shop that doesn't have a tubing bender and only welds on straight pipe?

Looks like a 2.25 or even 2.00 inch pipe expanded to 2.50" on the ends to me.

You still have the 2.00" inner bottleneck of the factory flange, which they just welded the pipe over for looks, that doesn't functionally remove the restriction. You can also see how the pipe is much smaller in the middle than at either end. It should be a constant diameter except for any bends.

You still have the restriction between the converter and the muffler. It may be slightly less than it was with a full 2.00" pipe before, but you could have a whole lot less restriction with a full 2.50" pipe from the cat to the muffler.


The pipe welded to the muffler should be the same outer 2.50" diameter as the inner diameter of the muffler inlet and look more like this:

87464d1330242508-dynomax-vt-muffler-inlet.jpg


If a shop doesn't have the ability to make a 2.5" ball joint flange, they should be able to get one of the pre-made ones like I mentioned, or buy your own and bring it in.


I'd go back and call the guy out who did that and have them redo it the right way or refund your money and go to another shop. Unfortunately this is common with exhaust and auto shops in general, they rip people off and do poor work. I was serious when I said you should visit various exhaust shops and get estimates - you sometimes have to shop around to find a place that won't do this type of work and take your time rather than rushing and just getting the first place you find to do whatever they want.

When into the shop and asked about this. They put on a 2" pipe :mad:.They said they will redo it with a 2.5" pipe AND put the flange, gaskets etc you suggested. They're get it in tomorrow.

I appreciate your help. Probably won't do any more exhaust jobs from this shop again.
 






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