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Nitrous 1994 Explorer

About a month ago I got Nitrous on my 1994 Explorer and I've been waiting to try it out at the track. Wednesday was the first Test & Tune night at Bandimere Speedway. Currently spraying 50 HP with NGK TR6 spark plugs. After a couple runs the spark plugs looked great. Probably gonna try a 75 shot sometime soon. I gotta thank user [MENTION=91966]jd4242[/MENTION] for his help on getting the kit installed.

Up here at 5800 feet above sea level, cars run a lot slower. With only a KKM intake and Dynomax muffer my fastest run ever was 19.30 at 70 mph.

Here at the time slips
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Quite a big drop in ET and good MPH gain. This kit was definatly worth it whether it's racing or just messing around on the streets.

Video of me at Bandimere Speedway
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OF8yaVFDRQE

This is the kit i used: http://www.amazon.com/Nitrous-Express-20421-10-Proton-System/dp/B004706C0Q?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Pf-4tbpAL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=BVXFR76Y48TZXKX4W7Z1&ref_=pd_aw_sim_sbs_263_2&ref_=redir_mobile_desktop#immersive-view_1456289394090

The setup:
10lb Bottle
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Fuel and Nitrous lines
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Solenoids
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Engage Switch Off/On
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Fire button
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When into the shop and asked about this. They put on a 2" pipe :mad:.They said they will redo it with a 2.5" pipe AND put the flange, gaskets etc you suggested. They're get it in tomorrow.

I appreciate your help. Probably won't do any more exhaust jobs from this shop again.


If that's a 2.00" pipe, it sure makes it look like your muffler is only 2.25" in/out. You sure it's 2.50? Measure and make sure, otherwise if they are sticking a 2.50" pipe on there it's going to look weird.

You might want to get under there yourself and take a wire brush to what's left of the two spring-loaded bolts holding the flange to the converter. I suspect the shop will just cut them off if they don't come off with an impact. You may wind up having to go to a parts store and getting new ones if they just try to use non-spring loaded bolts. You do want those spring-loaded ones so the exhaust can flex, especially if it's now just one hanger supporting the muffler.

You might mention to them that it's ok to position the muffler slightly higher up so the cat-to-muffler pipe can just be straight from the converter to the muffler, looks like whoever did it make the pipe diagonal rather than bend it or re-position the muffler.

You might want to save the flange (along with the tailpipe and whatever is left of the pipe they cut off) in case you ever put the vehicle back to stock for whatever reason with a 2.00" in-out muffler.


Again, most important thing, don't let them mess up the flange or outlet on the converter. Installing a new gasket and using a flat flange (like on the Walker ball joint pipe) on the muffler inlet pipe is fine. As long as the rear of the converter is never messed up, you can at least always start from scratch and get it redone. Once that rear converter connection is messed up, you are at the mercy of exhaust shops to keep dealing with it.
 



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If that's a 2.00" pipe, it sure makes it look like your muffler is only 2.25" in/out. You sure it's 2.50? Measure and make sure, otherwise if they are sticking a 2.50" pipe on there it's going to look weird.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17733 this is the muffler that I got.

You might want to save the flange (along with the tailpipe and whatever is left of the pipe they cut off) in case you ever put the vehicle back to stock for whatever reason with a 2.00" in-out muffler.


Again, most important thing, don't let them mess up the flange or outlet on the converter. Installing a new gasket and using a flat flange (like on the Walker ball joint pipe) on the muffler inlet pipe is fine. As long as the rear of the converter is never messed up, you can at least always start from scratch and get it redone. Once that rear converter connection is messed up, you are at the mercy of exhaust shops to keep dealing with it.

What would you have me say to them? Tell them not to mess with the flange and piping closest to the converter but put the new flange and spring bolts on the muffler side?
 







Ok, 2.50" it is then.



What would you have me say to them? Tell them not to mess with the flange and piping closest to the converter but put the new flange and spring bolts on the muffler side?

Just make it clear you want them to bolt on the new pipe just like the stock pipe is bolted on now. That sounds like what's going to happen based on your earlier comments, but then again I didn't expect to see the type of job you wound up with in those pics so it might be worth being sure so they don't cut it up or weld a 2.50" pipe to the back of it.

They will have to mess with the rear flange on the converter since the bolts holding the stock flange pipe to the converter are bolted to each other. If you tell them not to mess with the flange on the converter but put the new flange and spring bolts on the muffler side they are going to look at you funny and think you don't have a clue.

I guess the main thing is see if they think they can get the stock bolts off, if not and they have to cut them, do they have replacement spring bolts for Fords. Maybe a good shop would have them, otherwise you can buy them individually in the Dorman HELP! section of just about any auto parts store. They are the only Ford spring bolts there.

Maybe ask them to be careful when cutting/torching the bolts off since you're keeping the stock converter.

They should be able to do a good job if they just take the time to do it right. Sloppy work happens when people just want to get something done as quick as possible and get the vehicle out of the shop. Sometimes you'll get better service if you show up when there are no other customers or vehicles being worked on. Guys who are into cars or performance might also be impressed if you tell them you drag race the Explorer and show them the nitrous setup so they know you're actually a racer and not someone who just wants a loud exhaust or big pipes for sound or looks.
 






Ok, 2.50" it is then.
Just make it clear you want them to bolt on the new pipe just like the stock pipe is bolted on now. That sounds like what's going to happen based on your earlier comments, but then again I didn't expect to see the type of job you wound up with in those pics so it might be worth being sure so they don't cut it up or weld a 2.50" pipe to the back of it.
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Been meaning to post this. Been gone all last week and kinda forgot. Pipe looks way better now. they did a good job with the flange. They took a lot more time this time.
 

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Been meaning to post this. Been gone all last week and kinda forgot. Pipe looks way better now. they did a good job with the flange. They took a lot more time this time.

I don't think this shop you're going to really has a clue when it comes to installing custom exhaust.

The inlet pipe should be going directly INTO the muffler, as in, inside the muffler inlet tube.

It's beyond me why they would expand the pipe and put it OVER the muffler inlet, as that creates a host of problems, not just flow restriction, but as you can see, it puts the seam at the muffler instead of farther out where it would be a hell of a lot easier to weld.


I suppose it's "good enough" for now, but the muffler is probably now trashed from all the welding/cutting/rewelding, so when this falls off (and it looks like it will, given the quality of the welds), I suggest getting a better exhaust shop to do the work, preferably one that knows what the heck they are doing.
 






I don't think this shop you're going to really has a clue when it comes to installing custom exhaust.

The inlet pipe should be going directly INTO the muffler, as in, inside the muffler inlet tube.

It's beyond me why they would expand the pipe and put it OVER the muffler inlet, as that creates a host of problems, not just flow restriction, but as you can see, it puts the seam at the muffler instead of farther out where it would be a hell of a lot easier to weld.

I suppose it's "good enough" for now, but the muffler is probably now trashed from all the welding/cutting/rewelding, so when this falls off (and it looks like it will, given the quality of the welds), I suggest getting a better exhaust shop to do the work, preferably one that knows what the heck they are doing.

Damn. guess I'm stuck with it. Appreciate your help on all this
 






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Full throttle switch
 












Have you checked to see if you have any slack in your cable?? If so put zip ties around it where the pedal is..

You can search on here for here for the "zip tie" mod for pics and more details

Also you ever step up to that 75 yet?
 






Very very cool. Can't wait to see some time slips as this project evolves.

If you are 4x4 and trapping around 65 at the top of third you probably have 4:10's. what rpm are ripping 2nd gear at? What rpm are you hitting 3rd?
Are you saying what RPM do I shift at? I shift at about 4700. Going through the trap without N2O I'm at 4300rpm
 






Have you checked to see if you have any slack in your cable?? If so put zip ties around it where the pedal is..

You can search on here for here for the "zip tie" mod for pics and more details

Also you ever step up to that 75 yet?

I have done the zip tie mod.

Here's a time slip with the 75 shot. I'm on the right with my best ET of 16.63. NOTE i was off the gas at the finish line because this was during bracket racing. I hit 82 mph on one of the time trial runs so I probably could've hit 83. 60' time improved

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Nice.what kind of tree are you on?? Your R/T could use a good drop if .000 is a perfect light..but damn..from a 20+ to a 16ish just from a basic bolt on it AWESOME

Ignore all this if you feel you got your staging down.

How are you staging and leaving? You leaving on the light before green? If not id try and stage/stop AS soon as the light comes on,this will give you little extra roll before it signals a red light if you leave slightly early.

I would take a day of getting some red lights and try to get that track/lights down pat.

Also what PSI are you running your tires at on the track??

Also dont purge till you've done your burnout and pulling up to stage..think NX calls for 3 burst purges of couple seconds each till you see liquid Nitrous being purged..bottle pressure gauge, bottle warmer and filter would be on my list in the future also..

You still have the "octane bar" plugged in correct? Still running TR6 plugs? How do they look? Any signs of knock or detonation at WOT?
 






Just watched your youtube videos. .you look like your staging fine and leaving good.that thing is just needs some help getting out the hole..maybe lower the tire psi and leave higher in rpms.

Looks like a blast though,miss the nights at the track!!
 






Nice.what kind of tree are you on?? Your R/T could use a good drop if .000 is a perfect light..but damn..from a 20+ to a 16ish just from a basic bolt on it AWESOME

Ignore all this if you feel you got your staging down.

How are you staging and leaving? You leaving on the light before green? If not id try and stage/stop AS soon as the light comes on,this will give you little extra roll before it signals a red light if you leave slightly early.
I stage shallow all the time and try to keep things consistent. Full tree. I think I'm just nervous about redlighting in competition. I've hit .006 and .001 lights before on test and tune nights probably because I have nothing to worry about. Gonna go out this Wednesday and try to get my reaction times down for Friday.

Also what PSI are you running your tires at on the track??

35 PSI. I felt some tire spin just after launching but nothing serious.

Also dont purge till you've done your burnout and pulling up to stage..think NX calls for 3 burst purges of couple seconds each till you see liquid Nitrous being purged..bottle pressure gauge, bottle warmer and filter would be on my list in the future also..

You still have the "octane bar" plugged in correct? Still running TR6 plugs? How do they look? Any signs of knock or detonation at WOT?
Is the "octane bar" that small piece that tends to come unplugged just right of the manifold? If so, i try to keep it plugged in. Here's a pic of the spark plug. Always check them after a night of racing
 






Forgot to post the pic..

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Forgot to post the pic..

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The octane bar or shorting bar is usually near the heater box,it pulls timing.if you didnt know where it is then means your still runing full timing which is good.

Yea biggest thing for me is awlays to pretend there is noone next to you at the line,im way worse when i line up next to someone,just nerves..lol

Id try dropping to 25-28 psi and leave higher/harder..

Plugs look real good..i also called my NX guy and asked about jetting at 5800 feet and said no changes should be made.

Keep up the good work man.looks so much fun!!
 






The octane bar or shorting bar is usually near the heater box,it pulls timing.if you didnt know where it is then means your still runing full timing which is good.

Yea biggest thing for me is awlays to pretend there is noone next to you at the line,im way worse when i line up next to someone,just nerves..lol

Id try dropping to 25-28 psi and leave higher/harder..

Plugs look real good..i also called my NX guy and asked about jetting at 5800 feet and said no changes should be made.

Keep up the good work man.looks so much fun!!
Thanks for all your help! I'll be sure to keep you updated on everything.

One quick question about the underdrive crankshaft pulley, would i notice a difference in hp around town without the nitrous? I'm still giving it thoughts and whether i should get it or not. Where i'll be going to school next year is 2 hour drive away. I'll be making the drive a couple of times when i come back for Thanksgiving and Christmas so i thought the increased MPG would help.
 









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Yea you need to cut the plug open to tell lean/rich with any sort of accuracy.

I had best luck at 18 psi in my Michelin ms2's. I could cut a consistent 2.1-2.2 60' in a 2000ft+ da.

Your shift points sound right. Stock cam is a dog.
 






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