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Nitrous tips / general info

Hey Gents,

Just wondering anyone has tips that aren't in the instructions or are not common knowledge when it comes to nitrous.

I just got the ZEX dry nitrous kit like many of you have and was hoping that you'd post any little helpful install hints (although Alec's instructions are pretty darn thorough), quirks, or maintenance tips.

The 1st question for the NOS info thread:

How should the NOS system be treated or maintained during the winter/freezing months? Should the tank or lines be removed for the winter?

Thanks!!
 



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If you live in a really cold/icy/snowy climate I'd recommend firstly routing the lines close to the body and insulate them. This coupled with a bottle heater should provide trouble free use whenever you need it.

Or you could make the main line more accessible and remove it every winter and plug the hole in your floor. My line was routed along the framerail, but wasn't tucked up as tightly as if I live up north.
 






Thanks Alec.....you're like the Street Explorer Guardian Angel. :p

I'll probably do the latter and take the line out for the winter. With my need for speed that's all I need is to one day think I should touch the NOS off on a frozen street in Syracuse. FUBAR-A-ROONEY!!
 






run premium fuel when you spray, and switch to plain copper plugs. if you have a chip, take it out as the timing advance will reak havoc on your motor when you hit the juice.
 






I ran motorcraft double plats but one heat range cooler than stock.
 






So you open the bottle and go for a drive.....when you come back and close the bottle, how do you purge the line without a purge kit?

Do I NEED a blowoff line for the bottle vented outside, say under the rear bumper like you did?
 






i just want updates- i have nothing but basic knowledge really so far.
 






Yes, you need a blowoff line vented to the outside. There's a very small chance you'll ever need it, but if you don't have it you could poison yourself very quickly, freeze yourself, or break windows.

I purged the lines when I was done at the end of the day by simply unscrewing one end of the main feed line and letting it vent. Without a purge kit your first few seconds will mostly be air, so I always ran one shot on the highway before I got to the track to "purge" the lines.
 






Say I invested in a purge kit.....can you also use that purge kit after you close the bottle to clear the delivery line. Is that the idea of the kit in addition to having fresh nos before a run?
 






?

Are you a ohv or sohc or a 5.0 motor. cause if you are a 4.0 then wouldn't you need to do some inside engine work before you spay alot. Cause i wanted to have nos and everyone laugh at me when i ask for a kit and sai i wouldblow my motor.
 






LOL. It's good to be cautious explodr, but don't listen to EVERYTHING you hear. Dry nitrous kits (so far) haven't offered a large enough shot to require major overhaul work on an engine.

*Chime in if I say anything erroneous, guys*

Sure you have to make sure that your vehicle has no mechanical and electrical problems, has been excellently maintained, and doesn't have real high mileage, buuut as long as you don't exceed a 55HP shot a dry kit shouldn't require anything but good fuel and spark from your stock system. A kit like the Zex, should perform with no problem on a completely stock vehicle.

Things to know:
1- If you have any mechanical or electrical problems (like pinging, rough idle, overheating, etc), it's probably not a good idea to run nitrous
2- Always run premium fuel if running nitrous
3- Keep the engine cool (ie go with a colder plug, and consider a 180 degF stat)
4- Make sure you have replaced your fuel filter as recommended
5-Make sure you're plugs and plug wires are tip top
6- Don't use an aftermarket tuning chip or module unless it was programmed to run with nitrous. Most of them advance timing which will wreak havoc on ya when you hit the juice.

Depending on your nitrous mfg and model, you may be required to retard timing and even upgrade your fuel delivery system, but that usually occurs with larger shots (over 65HP). You'll find that all the posts on the forum regarding nitrous recommend that you follow the mfg's instructions for the kit YOU HAVE.

All of my buddies who don't have any mechanical or automotive backround are also saying that I'm going to burn my pistons, and blow the engine, too.....but a majority of them are ignorant and don't understand what they are talking about. Gotta have fun and go fast.....just do your homework and be safe.
 






I ran a 70 shot with stock internals and the BBK s/c. Cooler plugs, slightly retarded timing, and adjustable FPR.
 






Alec do you recommend I go thru the effort of replacing my stock pump and fpr?
 






what is the best set-up for me?

i want to feel very comfortable using it since i keep reading about people who buy it and don't hit it. (besides i am the kind of person who will hit it all the time on the streets- please dont' flame)

so what is gonna be real safe? and is it worth trying to get more than a 75 shot out of er?

keep in mind the e-cam and my airflow mods.

i'm thinking upgrading fuel pump and crap with a dry 75 shot shoudl be fine and safe enough with a custom chip?
 






drew, you are good for a 100shot with a decent fuel pump. ive seen ALOT of relatively stock 5liter stangs run 100-125 shots with no problems so long as you use the general rules of nitrous application.
 






Yeah, the 5.0 can handle a 100-125 shot easily with a good fuel pump, but I'd do it wet.

Stomper, your stock pump will be ok with occasional nitrous use, but don't use it for more than 10 or so seconds at a time.
 






guys- 132,000 on the odometer too (but dont' telll anyone)
 






eh, you're still ok with a 100 shot.
 






I have 98 with 94,000k on it and i haven't had and problems beside regular maintnents. So your saying i could have nos and not hurt anything as long as i change my plug wirers and plugs to a colder temp, fuel filte, all for a 50 shot and i wouldn't hurt anything at all as long as i maintain it as the direction tell me too? Also how much wuld all that cost, like zex plugs and wirers and filter.
 



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Right on. I just ordered Taylor wires and a 180F thermostat from truckperformance.com and picked up a set of traditional copper plugs one range colder than stock from PepBoys. Motorcraft fuel filter will prolly run you about $10. If you've never had a coolant flush, it might be a good idea to do that when you install the stat.

Keep in mind that I'm not doing this stuff because I'm scared of the nitrous. The important thing here is to have your truck's maintenance up to snuff so that there is less chance that one of these things does fail cause it's old.
 






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