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no A/C 2000 5.0 Limited Explorer

Alex Gergely

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Joined
April 10, 2019
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City, State
Victorville, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer Limited
Last fall I put in a OEM blend door actuator, because I had no heat. It worked fine now in summer I have no A/C. Any suggestions?
My son is a Master Tech, for Mercedes. + He put his gauges on the LTD, it is full of refrigerant. Any ideas.
 



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Does the compressor engage? I assume you have the electronic climate control?
 






Last fall I put in a OEM blend door actuator, because I had no heat. It worked fine now in summer I have no A/C. Any suggestions?
My son is a Master Tech, for Mercedes. + He put his gauges on the LTD, it is full of refrigerant. Any ideas.

Is your compressor engaging? Does the A/C cool before the engine heats up?
 












Is your compressor engaging? Does the A/C cool before the engine heats up?
I will check the compressor today, and no it does bot cool at any time. Also it has the electronic control (message center).
 












What sometimes happens with the Electronic Automatic Temperature Controls (AKA EATC) is that there is a small relay on the internal circuit board that can break its solder joints. This small relay controls the compressor.

Start by checking fuses and swapping the A/C relay in the power distribution box to see if that makes any difference. If it doesn't you can try running a jumper wire from your battery's positive terminal to the A/C compressor's electrical connector. If the Compressor clutch engages with the jumper wire connected, your compressor is okay. If it doesn't there's something wrong and the compressor (as you stated the refrigerant pressure's look okay, though I don't know how you determined this if the compressor wont run). Sometimes the "air gap" on the A/C clutch gets worn and the gap is now too wide for the electromagnet to overcome and engage the clutch. If the compressor kicks in when directly attached to your battery you have a compressor control problem, which is possibly due to the relay inside the EATC module. Some here have been able to remove the EATC module, open it up to expose its circuit board, then look for a small black square device on the board check and re-solder its joints.
 






What sometimes happens with the Electronic Automatic Temperature Controls (AKA EATC) is that there is a small relay on the internal circuit board that can break its solder joints. This small relay controls the compressor.

Start by checking fuses and swapping the A/C relay in the power distribution box to see if that makes any difference. If it doesn't you can try running a jumper wire from your battery's positive terminal to the A/C compressor's electrical connector. If the Compressor clutch engages with the jumper wire connected, your compressor is okay. If it doesn't there's something wrong and the compressor (as you stated the refrigerant pressure's look okay, though I don't know how you determined this if the compressor wont run). Sometimes the "air gap" on the A/C clutch gets worn and the gap is now too wide for the electromagnet to overcome and engage the clutch. If the compressor kicks in when directly attached to your battery you have a compressor control problem, which is possibly due to the relay inside the EATC module. Some here have been able to remove the EATC module, open it up to expose its circuit board, then look for a small black square device on the board check and re-solder its joints.
I will check tomorrow, thanks.
 






I will check tomorrow, thanks.

If it turns out the A/C clutch is severely worn, or not engaging because the air gap is too wide, there are shims in the outer part that can be removed to close the gap. There's a spec for the width of the air-gap. If the clutch is very worn or if the clutch doesn't engage because the electromagnet is not working you can get a completely new clutch with a new electromagnet and bearing for $80-$100 from Advance Auto Parts on-line (using their discount code). It's not too hard to replace the clutch and it doesn't require removing the compressor.
 






First any trouble codes in the EATC system??



Try a reset first
 






First any trouble codes in the EATC system??



Try a reset first


Can't hurt though I don't believe it will diagnose a compressor signal issue, but cant's hurt. "888" = no issues found.
 






What sometimes happens with the Electronic Automatic Temperature Controls (AKA EATC) is that there is a small relay on the internal circuit board that can break its solder joints. This small relay controls the compressor.

Start by checking fuses and swapping the A/C relay in the power distribution box to see if that makes any difference. If it doesn't you can try running a jumper wire from your battery's positive terminal to the A/C compressor's electrical connector. If the Compressor clutch engages with the jumper wire connected, your compressor is okay. If it doesn't there's something wrong and the compressor (as you stated the refrigerant pressure's look okay, though I don't know how you determined this if the compressor wont run). Sometimes the "air gap" on the A/C clutch gets worn and the gap is now too wide for the electromagnet to overcome and engage the clutch. If the compressor kicks in when directly attached to your battery you have a compressor control problem, which is possibly due to the relay inside the EATC module. Some here have been able to remove the EATC module, open it up to expose its circuit board, then look for a small black square device on the board check and re-solder its joints.
First any trouble codes in the EATC system??



Try a reset first

Zero codes.
 






What sometimes happens with the Electronic Automatic Temperature Controls (AKA EATC) is that there is a small relay on the internal circuit board that can break its solder joints. This small relay controls the compressor.

Start by checking fuses and swapping the A/C relay in the power distribution box to see if that makes any difference. If it doesn't you can try running a jumper wire from your battery's positive terminal to the A/C compressor's electrical connector. If the Compressor clutch engages with the jumper wire connected, your compressor is okay. If it doesn't there's something wrong and the compressor (as you stated the refrigerant pressure's look okay, though I don't know how you determined this if the compressor wont run). Sometimes the "air gap" on the A/C clutch gets worn and the gap is now too wide for the electromagnet to overcome and engage the clutch. If the compressor kicks in when directly attached to your battery you have a compressor control problem, which is possibly due to the relay inside the EATC module. Some here have been able to remove the EATC module, open it up to expose its circuit board, then look for a small black square device on the board check and re-solder its joints.
The compressor clutch is only intermittently cycling, engaging for a few turns then not.
 












The compressor clutch is only intermittently cycling, engaging for a few turns then not.

Are you saying the compressor clutch cycles with the jumper wire, or under normal control? It is normal for the compressor to cycle under normal control, but it should run continuously when hooked up with a jumper wire. Under normal conditions the compressor cycles on/off about every 7-8 seconds. Quick cycling (say ever 3-4 seconds) usually means low refrigerant.

What was the outside temp when your son put his gauges on system? What readings did he witness? If you have an A/C system problem the answers to these questions is critical.
 






Last fall I put in a OEM blend door actuator, because I had no heat. It worked fine now in summer I have no A/C. Any suggestions?
My son is a Master Tech, for Mercedes. + He put his gauges on the LTD, it is full of refrigerant. Any ideas.
Thanks, everyone for all of the help it was a bad connection with a relay. And it is working now.
 






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