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No acceleration after warm up

markhenry63

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Ford Explorer
94 Explorer Sport, 4.0, manual trans - Driving short trips, everything works fine - acceleration, smooth running - after about 10 miles of highway driving at ~ 1500 RPM, it starts bogging down on hills and if I try to accelerate, it acts as if it's running out of gas. If I back off the accelerator, it smooths back out but can't maintain highway speed. I found if I press accelerator all the way to the floor, it will eventually partially smooth out and pick up rpm/speed. I can also drop a gear and get rpms up over 2k and it helps. Any ideas? This only occurs consistently after I've drive at least 10 miles...doesn't do it on short trips...Let it cool down and it works again up to the same point...Catalytic converter maybe?
Thanks
 



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I'm not good at reading the flash codes, but the best I can tell it only shows a 214. This code comes on about 30 seconds after I start it and hasn't changed even after this problem.
 






Replaced air filter and cleaned the MAF sensor. Didn't see an impact on throttle response and still have the 214 code.
I ran around town today (no more than 4 miles or so between destinations) kept it in a lower gear to keep the rpms up to see if I could artifically cause the situation to occur - no luck. Ran around in second gear most of the time at 2000-2600 rpm (25-35mph) and never had any issues. Ran smooth, idled smooth, no hesitation...Guess I'll have to do the full simulation and run down the road...
Anyone know how to check a catalytic converter for flow?
 






Update...it also happens after about 10-15 minutes just idling...seems to be heat related...
Any ideas?
 






There are two coolant temp sensors, one for the gauge, one for the computer. I wonder about this and the one for the computer. I don't have a lot of time to post right now. I'd search around the forum for PCM temperature sensor and see if symptoms line up.
 






I did find a hit on similar symptoms, but only the header...the discussion wasn't available anymore. Wouldn't there be codes associated to the sensor if it were failing? I consistently only have the 214 code. I haven't put a monitor on it yet, but I guess I'll break down and buy one...
 






Check your fuel pressure. Sounds like it's low, and wanting to vapor lock, or has a restricted filter.
 






Ok - After clearing codes, taking a trip to get it up to temperature and then let it set with the AC on for another 15 minutes, I've collected one new code - 327. So now I have 327 and 214.
I did some checks on the DPFE sensor and the voltages/resistance all appear normal. Is there another interpretation of the 327 code?
 






Follow this thread, to see if it helps you out with the 327 code. 327 error code pain

The 214 code is the cam sensor- code 214
there are other threads dealing with this. Seems that the 1994 was a one year only for this sensor, as other year 4.0 use a different type that is not interchangeable.
 












Well - I followed those two threads and found nothing I could use in my situation.
I'm suspecting a failing DPFE when the engine/operating temp gets high but I can't reproduce the failure when testing.
The 327 will come back in after clearing the codes when I run it for a while - the 214 comes on about 4 seconds after I crank it.
Can I leave the jumper on the diagnostic port while running normally? Will the PCM generate new codes to a connected reader while operating normally?
I'd like to try to capture new codes as they occur when the trouble happens...
Thanks all.
 






All,
Thanks for your input so far and the other content on these forums.
Unfortunately, I haven't found a problem similar to mine that happens after a 20+ minute operation down the highway.
Could this be a failing PCM after warm up? I remember a igniter module on a Dodge Colt that would only fail after a 10+ minute run...ended up having a hairline crack in the body of the module that was expanding and causing the failure after warm up...
Anything I can check to eliminate this possibility with the PCM?
Thanks again,
Mark
 






The 94 Cam Sensor Unit can be replaced with a later unit, I have a 96 in my 94. You will need the connector for a later unit with at least 8" of wire, 12" is better. You will need the pinouts for both connectors so you don't get the 12v and ground reversed, signal is in the center on both. There is a write up on using a specific crank position and a multimeter to set the unit. You may need to pull the intake manifold, I replaced intake and valve cover gaskets at the same time as doing this as it is a pain to get to.

Your problem sounds like a fuel pump with restricted flow. If it is developing the correct pressure at idle see if the fuel filter is restricted.

If you replace the DPFE sensor use the Wells/Airtec unit, I was replacing another brand at about 6 weeks, bought the better unit and no problem for years now.
 






I had a similar issue in my '94. After going thru many sensors I found it was the ECM up behind the battery. I had a spare in my decommissioned 93 and it worked great since. Mine would quit completely. Not sure how you test for that I just tried the one out of other car.
 






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