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Solved No electricity after replacing battery cables

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motohobo

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City, State
Maryland
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Explorer XL
First, the good news- referring to this thread:


Fitted 1st gen positive and negative cables are available at Autozone for under $50 for the pair -- best price anywhere. Part numbers are at the end of this thread. I just installed them and they fit. These are the same cables Partsgeeks and NAPA has, just ~$25 cheaper and local pickup rather than long wait times for shipping.

Bad news - after the install I'm getting zero power anywhere in the vehicle. I'm a novice wrt electricals and could use some help. Some details:

* The battery reads 12.4V.
* Power at the fender relay reads 12.4V at the left-hand terminal and nothing at the right hand one.
* The terminal at the starter end of the positive cable reads 12.4V when the battery is connected, so I'm assuming the main ground connections on the negative cable are OK.

* The negative cable shipped with crimp connectors instead of the plug that goes into the two-pronged jack behind the battery. I cut those off and soldered the plug to the new negative cable.
* I connected the thinner positive wire to the fender relay terminal on the right and the thicker one to the terminal on the left -- pretty sure this is the way it's supposed to be but can't remember exactly.

So my first two questions are:

* Shouldn't there be 12.4V to both terminals of the fender relay? Maybe that connecting cable is bad - should I try bridging the positive across both those terminals? Would doing that cause any very bad things to happen?
* Where does that two-pole ground connector behind the battery go and how can I test whether that ground is getting to its destination?

I'm going to start testing grounds and checking fuses now, but if I'm missing something obvious maybe someone could put me out of my misery. I've had this vehicle for 10 years and have fixed or replaced alternator, serpentine, brake MC, calipers and brake lines, etc etc etc, but this cable thing is by far the biggest PITA of all. Anyway, those AZ cables come from a company called GP Sorensen. The part numbers are:

Positive: DA72-4UA
Negative: BA49-4CTL

Any help greatly appreciated...

Van
 



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First, the good news- referring to this thread:


Fitted 1st gen positive and negative cables are available at Autozone for under $50 for the pair -- best price anywhere. Part numbers are at the end of this thread. I just installed them and they fit. These are the same cables Partsgeeks and NAPA has, just ~$25 cheaper and local pickup rather than long wait times for shipping.

Bad news - after the install I'm getting zero power anywhere in the vehicle. I'm a novice wrt electricals and could use some help. Some details:

* The battery reads 12.4V.
* Power at the fender relay reads 12.4V at the left-hand terminal and nothing at the right hand one.
* The terminal at the starter end of the positive cable reads 12.4V when the battery is connected, so I'm assuming the main ground connections on the negative cable are OK.

* The negative cable shipped with crimp connectors instead of the plug that goes into the two-pronged jack behind the battery. I cut those off and soldered the plug to the new negative cable.
* I connected the thinner positive wire to the fender relay terminal on the right and the thicker one to the terminal on the left -- pretty sure this is the way it's supposed to be but can't remember exactly.

So my first two questions are:

* Shouldn't there be 12.4V to both terminals of the fender relay? Maybe that connecting cable is bad - should I try bridging the positive across both those terminals? Would doing that cause any very bad things to happen?
* Where does that two-pole ground connector behind the battery go and how can I test whether that ground is getting to its destination?

I'm going to start testing grounds and checking fuses now, but if I'm missing something obvious maybe someone could put me out of my misery. I've had this vehicle for 10 years and have fixed or replaced alternator, serpentine, brake MC, calipers and brake lines, etc etc etc, but this cable thing is by far the biggest PITA of all. Anyway, those AZ cables come from a company called GP Sorensen. The part numbers are:

Positive: DA72-4UA
Negative: BA49-4CTL

Any help greatly appreciated...

Van

To answer my own question --

* Shouldn't there be 12.4V to both terminals of the fender relay? Maybe that connecting cable is bad - should I try bridging the positive across both those terminals? Would doing that cause any very bad things to happen?

Yes - and just like Tbars4 said, the ring terminal at the end of the new positive cable that connects to the fender relay was not crimped. Gonna fix that and report back....
 






To answer my own question --

* Shouldn't there be 12.4V to both terminals of the fender relay? Maybe that connecting cable is bad - should I try bridging the positive across both those terminals? Would doing that cause any very bad things to happen?

Yes - and just like Tbars4 said, the ring terminal at the end of the new positive cable that connects to the fender relay was not crimped. Gonna fix that and report back....

Wrong... there was nothing wrong with the positive lead from the fender relay to the solenoid. I'm stumped. Any help?
 






Fender relay to solenoid is powered when turning the ignition. "relayed power".So no, the second terminal should not have constant battery voltage. Do you have pic of positive battery terminal and fender relay? Preferably with your air intake removed to make the routing visible.

should be oriented as this:

NGIOQtw.jpg
 






Fender relay to solenoid is powered when turning the ignition. "relayed power".So no, the second terminal should not have constant battery voltage. Do you have pic of positive battery terminal and fender relay? Preferably with your air intake removed to make the routing visible.
I don't know but if it wasn't to much work and the original cables worked try putting them on or at least somewhat on to see if that helps. Some one mentioned this but old cables can rot where you can't see them but you got new cables.
 






Fender relay to solenoid is powered when turning the ignition. "relayed power".So no, the second terminal should not have constant battery voltage. Do you have pic of positive battery terminal and fender relay? Preferably with your air intake removed to make the routing visible.

should be oriented as this:

View attachment 341530


And there it is -- I knew it was some dumb a** error on my part. I had the PDB hooked to the solenoid terminal on the fender relay. The PDB cable sticks right out of the PDB - should have seen that and asked myself how is it supposed to get power if it's connected to the switched terminal? Now that I've completely embarrassed myself -- big thanks for responding. So now I'll button it up and see if I still get the intermittent power issue that made me replace those cables. Seems nothing ever fails one at a time, it's always two or three things at once. Makes it interesting!

BTW I just did the front brakes and repacked the bearings. I couldn't get a wrench on that nut, so instead of buying a spindle tool for the hub nut, I made one up in a CAD program and 3D printed it. I figured on the automatic hub that nut doesn't need a whole lot of torque before you back it off and slip the key in. It seems to have worked, no free play in the bearing to speak of. Would that be something anyone else would want to use? I can supply the STL file so anyone with a printer can crank it out.
 






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