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no heat - dual climate control


Russ in CT

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Joined
November 11, 2002
Messages
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City, State
Milford, CT
Year, Model & Trim Level
'99 XLT
First winter with the new '02 EB Ex (with dual climate control), and I find the heat doesn't always work. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. I don't hear any clicking or clunking that I've read is indicative of a stripped blend door actuator. Over the summer the A/C seemed to work fine.

When the heat is working, when I put it on Auto the heat only seems to come out of the vents by your feet, never from the dash vents, and it isn't all THAT hot even when its working.

It usually seems to start out working, and just gets colder and colder as I drive, until it feels warmer to just turn it off. Leaving it off for a little while then turning it on again typically it'll 'work' again for a while.

The engine temp gauge does not vary at these times, once warmed up it sits right in the middle of the gauge.
 


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kingdong6515

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Joined
July 27, 2009
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City, State
Cleveland Ohio
Year, Model & Trim Level
04 Mountaineer
You ever figure out the fix? I have the same issue with my 04 Mounty and have the entire dashboard out after checking both actuators. They seemed fine so I thought it had to be the blend doors themselves. Well, after the long arduous process of removing the entire dashboard -- they look fine! I'm at a loss...
 




Russ in CT

Active Member
Joined
November 11, 2002
Messages
176
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City, State
Milford, CT
Year, Model & Trim Level
'99 XLT
Yeah, in my case it was just low on coolant due to a leaky oil cooler line (not sure if this is a towing package thing or if all Ex (& Mounty) have them, but I have coolant lines that run from water pump to oil filter then return into the heater core hoses - there is a mini radiator between oil filter and the block - so its an oil-to-water cooler, coolant cools the oil as it flows into/out of filter).

These coolant lines are rubber on the ends, hardline in the middle, and the one that goes from water pump to oil filter, was rotting where its mounting bracket was welded to the metal line. Its would drip down along the line to the back of the motor, so it wasn't easy to figure out where it was coming from.

I had topped off the coolant when I first bought it, yet still no heat, but it was because it had leaked down again by the time I tried the heat again a couple of days later. I panicked and went to the forum, before I checked the obvious (I had just got the truck). It only leaked when it was running, so no puddle or anything underneath to tip me off.

Before the new part came in (dealer only part, obviously), the thing finally burst and was leaking like, like a busted coolant line. So I just bypassed it by plumbing the input hose to the output so I could keep driving.

When I went to change the line, it was like one of those wrought-iron Pub games where you have to separate the two metal pieces by twisting them apart just the right way. Then I found the old piece wouldn't fit between the oil pan and the motor mount, by the smallest fraction of an inch. Rather than unbolt and jack up the motor, I just ground down the motor mount to gain clearance.

The dealer told me they see these lines rot at the weld site all the time.
 




kingdong6515

New Member
Joined
July 27, 2009
Messages
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City, State
Cleveland Ohio
Year, Model & Trim Level
04 Mountaineer
Thanks for your help Russ. After putting it all back together (new actuators can only help since I already had the dash out and now that annoying clicking is gone) I attempted to remove the heater control valve and bam! the linkage was rusted (one stupid single screw!) popped off! I can't believe that was it. So problem fixed. It was stuck half-way open so that is why the heat worked initially but cooled as the vehicle was operated. This is better than my Mustang forums I belong to :)
 








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