No low range or 4x4 lights

[Fossiljager]

Hi guys,

I built a 1990 B2 using 94 explorer guts, built 4.0L, built A4LD, transfer case that came with the Explorer. I've downloaded and read everything I could find on diagnosing and repairing the push button 4x4 system on this vehicle. I have hi range by pushing the 4x4 button on the controller. (not lights) But I do not have low range or any of the indicator lights on the instrument panel or the in lights that appear in the hi-low range controller. All the bulbs are good. I have diagnostics that show the light will come on if I jump the appropriate leads at the module. BTW, I have three modules that all check out 100% . I have run self diagnostics on each one. They all blinking 4 times indicating they are fine. There is a white/blue striped wire that plugs into the controller in the dash that runs to the fuse box. I ran a continuity test from the controller back to the fuse and got tone. When I tested for voltage coming from the fuse to the controller, I got no volts at all. This make no sense seeing it just past continuity. At this point, I'm stumped. Any suggestion would be helpful. One question, is there a 4x4 relay under the dash that might be the culprit?

Thanks guys..

 

[RangerX]

Could be the shift motor. The stop bushing inside disintegrates and causes shift issues.

Not sure If you've seen this thread, but if not, maybe it can help.4x4 Troubleshooting guide

Are you saying you can't get 4lo, or that you can get 4lo but not the corresponding lights?

 

[Fossiljager]

Hi Bill,
Thanks for taking the time to respond to my post. The answer to your question, I do have 4 wheel hi, not 4 wheel low. and no 4x4 lights anywhere on the dash, or controller. Although the LED's in the controller do glow dimly when the ignition is on. Seems to be a common problem.

Thank you for the link, I will print it out and read it carefully. I hadn't seen that particular post before. I read on another sight where a guy had a similar problem as me. He decided to head to the nearest boneyard to find a set of decent plugs for his module and controller. He installed them and it solved his problem. Mine are in terrible shape. I just returned from my local crusher where I found a 93 in mint condition. I scavenged everything I needed including a large pigtail for the plugs. I sealed the wire ends of the plug with silicone to help keep them intact. What happened to my original plugs is, many of the plastic clips that hold the spade connectors in the plug broke off. So when I plugged the two halves together, the male pins would get pushed back out foiling the connection. I hope the new plugs solve that problem.

Please keep the suggestions coming, I need this beast ready to head back in the bush to do a little trout fishing. Besides I have a Jeep bud whos idea of a good time is getting stuck. I get great satisfaction pulling Jeeps out.

 

[RangerX]

The BEST fix, in my opinion, would be to swap in a manual shift tcase. I had shift issues for years, and finally solved them by going manual.
Just putting it out there.

 

[Fossiljager]

Bill I agree a manual T case would be less prone to glitches and certainly simpler than the electronic version. Unfortunately I have little room for a 4x4 lever. I have a center console full of gauges switches and outlets that reaches from between the seats to the ashtray in the dash.

I have a lead on NH Craigs List for a manual T case from a local seller. I've been putting off buying it hoping I can resolve my electronic issues.

FYI, When tracing the wiring associated with the 4x4 system, I ran across a yellow power lead that had been completely oxidized. The sheathing around the wire had been ballooned out by the corrosion. When I opened the wire it revealed the copper wire had been corroded leaving only a turquoise powder. More evidence that probing a wire will eventually, in the right environment, degrade and or destroyed the copper wire within.

Most modern vehicles have a electronic T case. It's maddening not to able to get mine working in Low range.

One question, is there a under dash relay I should look for?

Bill thank you for your input, very much appreciated,

Harl

 

[Fossiljager]

I have a line on a BII manual transfer case. Is there any difference between a 89/90 BII transfer case and a 9 Explorer TC?

Thanks,

H

 

[roscoe 0202]

bronco II case has a different front output than the explorer bronco 1350 explorer 1354 front drive shaft would need to be changed
roscoe

 

[Fossiljager]

I finally figured out why my electric 4x4 stopped working.... After even going as far as hot wiring the "T" case motor with a 2 position momentary toggle in the cab, that worked for awhile then it didn't. The problem all along was the motor. When the problem first occurred in May. I swapped out my old "T" case motor for a new reman Cardone A1 unit. So once installed I figure good to go, but no joy, same problem, no 4x4 lights or engagement. That's when I decided to go through every inch of the 4x4 wiring harness with a fine toothed comb. Being I swapped all the full size Explorer harness into my Bronco, I had tons of wire coiled up behind my drivers seat. I shortened all the 4x4 wiring, soldering and heat shrunk every connection, and still no joy. I checked every ground, I even installed new super heavy ground wire from engine to frame and body to frame, Still nothing. I printed out a troubleshooting guide that went through every possible issue. I check off everything on the list. Still no 4x4. So in desperation I swapped the new motor for the old one, nothing. So I disassembled the new motor to compare it to the old one. Low and behold, when I took off the inspection/timing plate and the circuit / timing gear, I notice the bump stop washer was missing. I had rubber tubing that fit over the screw, cut a piece and that worked using my hot wire toggle switch, but only for a few engaugments. I pulled the motor apart again to find the tubing had crushed and the the control bushes/fingers went past the control limits. Conclusion; the motor was out of time, it was not shutting off before crushing bump stop washer. I replaced the crushed washer with a piece of silicone tubing. I put it all back together, but this time I retarded the timing plate from where I had marked it, so the motor would shut off sooner and not totally crush the bump stop. I tried it several times on the workbench. And it worked great. With the new timing setting, I reinstalled the motor, disconnected the hot wire toggle. Plugged it all back together OEM style, and now everything works fine. I have 4 wheel high, low and 2 wheel high, with dash and controller lights. woohoo! The motor makes way less noise when engaging. My conclusion is, the timing cover can be out of sequence with the stop causing the motor to run past where it needs to. My suggestion, If you find your motor keeps running pasted it's stopping point and out of range of the brushes. You might try turning the plate back a notch or two, (clockwise) so the motor stops before it crushes the bump stop. All that because some Cardone tech forgot to install a washer and time the unit accordingly. I was about to spend a bunch of money I don't have on parts I didn't need, Namely a manual transfer case. I still can't believe it works, I keep hitting the 4x4 switch and smile everytime it comes on. I hope this helps someone to figuring out their 4x4 issues.

Have a great summer, I'm going 4 wheeling

J