no overdrive

[deamon3]

So I pulled my explorer out of storage only to find as I drove it the overdrive doesn't work. I really don't know what else to say. I check to see if it has transmission fluid and it does so I don't know whats wrong. It worked fine before.

I fell I should add that this transmission always had funny problems. It would leak fluid on hot days , it take a long time to engauge into drive , ect...

 

[MrShorty]

Just to be clear, exactly what do you mean "the OD doesn't work?" Does it shift just fine 1-3, but never shifts into 4th gear, or does it not work at all in the OD position?

If it's the former problem, start by checking the electrical controls for the 3-4 shift solenoid. If it's the latter, it's probably a mechanical fault inside the transmission.

 

[deamon3]

Ok a development. I tried going down a very big hill on a highway here and it DOES shift into overdrive if I get it up to 55mph. But I know it's suppose to do it around 45.

And yes it works in the od position just won't go into it's highest gear.

 

[MrShorty]

3-4 shift is electronically controlled. I would probably start by determining if the fault is one where the computer is not commanding the 3-4 shift, or if the transmission is not responding to the PCM's command. I know I've posted details of the test procedure I've used before. In short:

1) Pull codes from the computer to see if there are any faults in engine management that would cause the PCM to erroneously decide not to upshift.
2) Check the wiring from the PCM to the transmission to make sure there are no breaks or loose connections (the output state test can be useful for this. See my "notes on pulling EEC-IV codes" in the EEC-IV forum for instructions on entering the output state test).
3) While monitoring voltage drop across the solenoid, test drive and see if the PCM is commanding the shift when it should.

 

[deamon3]

Ok I changed the EGR and that fixed the overdrive problem.

But now I notice that it needs injectors cuz it sputters the exact same way our van did before we got all the injectors replaced on it.

Where is a good guide on how to locate and change them?

 

[Xeek]

does it not work at all in the OD position?

thats what mine does. after a loud clunk when putting it in OD without completely stopping after backing up. then it never worked again.
one of the reasons i cringe everytime i see someone do that

 

[deamon3]

so wheres a good guide on how to change the injectors?

 

[FIND]

so wheres a good guide on how to change the injectors?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=307425

You don't have to remove the alternator to do just injectors, all the tools are listed in the thread. Don't buy the orange injectors you see on e-bay with the 4 pintle design, don't forget to have some lithium grease on hand to lube the o-rings on the injectors before you put them in.

The thread I linked goes all the way down to rockers and LIM, so you won't need all of it. Actually, if you read beyond, it goes all the way to heads and lifters too, but..... Like I said, you only need about half of the first post.

 

[deamon3]

ok cool. that sucks I have to take apart like the whole engine just to replace those. I'll most likely be using junkyard injectors.

 

[Xeek]

not really. just 6 10mm nuts on the upper intake, flathead screwdriver to remove intake tube from throttle body, 3 plugs, vac lines on the tree and one under the throttle. 13mm/10mm bolt holding a vac line on the back on the intake. ??mm bolts to remove coil pack and 1 plug. then 6 e5(?) torx studs to remove the fuel rail. and 2 different wrenches to remove fuel lines. then unplug all the injectors

 

[FIND]

ok cool. that sucks I have to take apart like the whole engine just to replace those. I'll most likely be using junkyard injectors.

Nah, it's like Xeek said, it isn't much to get at the injectors. Basically all you are taking off is the intake pipe, UIM, coil pack, fuel lines and fuel rail. Even the coil pack is optional, but it gives you a bit more room. My thread went a lot further than injectors is all.

If you use junkyard injectors, take them to a shop where they can be cleaned and flowmatched. Always use new o-rings when installing injectors or they WILL leak.

I could swear the studs are an E7 torx socket, but I might have misrecorded that or misread my writing. If you follow my walkthrough, you can skip draining the radiator and stop before you remove the alternator. You won't even go halfway through that write-up to do injectors, they are so incredibly easy to change you will wonder why you have never taken them out to clean or service before.

 

[Xeek]

well the coil pack bracket is attached to the upper intake and header. so that does kinda have to come off taking the pack off of the bracket is pointless tho lol

its either e5 or e7. i cant really remember

 

[Maniak]

When you put on the new o-rings, make sure you lube them but do NOT use petrolium based lube. I use cooking oil since its always handy. If you put them on dry they will bunch up/crimp and possibly rip and or leak.

~Mark

 

[FIND]

well the coil pack bracket is attached to the upper intake and header. so that does kinda have to come off taking the pack off of the bracket is pointless tho lol

its either e5 or e7. i cant really remember

Interestingly enough...... My first explorer had a bad UIM gasket and one leaking injector o-ring, but I couldn't get that bottom bolt on the coil pack bracket out and said to heck with it for now. I was able to get the UIM and fuel rail off without removing the bottom bolt from the coil pack bracket, but it gave me a much tighter squeeze to work with.... just saying.

And yeah, taking the coil pack off the bracket is pointless, I should have clarified that and said to take the coil pack bracket off.

 

[Xeek]

yes that bolt is a PITA! pb blaster for a few days and 1/2" socket with breaker bar made it easier tho.
i see wht you mean now. it can be done now that i picture it. but bending the bracket up enough to clear the studs on teh lower intake would just be annoying to fight with lol

so deamon3, soak the bolt holding the coil pack bracket on the passenger head a couple times a day for a couple days. stick socket on it with breaker bar, hammer on the breaker bar to shake the bolt up, spray with pb blaster again, then try and take it off. everything else shouldnt be to hard to do. very easy job

 

[FIND]

Acetone/tranny fluid. 50/50 mix. Let it soak for an hour and it will work better than a day of PB blaster I swear.

 

[deamon3]

Is there a way to tell if an injector is bad , I know with spark plug they'll be gunk covered or burned or caked with deposits but what does a bad fuel injector look like?

 

[rickybobby]

You usually cant tell a bad injector by looking, you can check the resistance to see if they are electricly bad, but without a miss code you have no real way to know if they are plugged