no power, no start

[mr cribb]

Went to start the truck after two months of sitting.

Things I have done:

Bypassed the factory plug to the computer ground just to make sure.

I have 12.56 volts at the battery, fender mount solenoid, and the distribution box (including the big fuses).

Symptoms:

No dome light, no key dinger, no dash lights, and obviously no start

Schematics will help a bunch, maybe I have some crap bass ackwards.

I know this has to be a simple fix, but I am lost.

 

[Gadget X]

Sounds like you have a bad switch, maybe? Does the key do anything, or does it just turn? Are there any dash lights or anything g when you turn the key on?

 

[mr cribb]

Nope. It all worked two months ago

 

[Travisfab]

Use a screw driver on the starter solenoid, that will tell you if your truck is capable of starting.

 

[2stroke]

Use a screw driver on the starter solenoid, that will tell you if your truck is capable of starting.

Yes, if it wont even crank, I'm still thinking its the fender relay. Been there, done that.

 

[2stroke]

 

[mr cribb]

Ok thanks to [MENTION=235549]2stroke[/MENTION] picture, I see something to correct. I have the power lead to the distribution box on the opposite side as pictured.

 

[2stroke]

Ok thanks to [MENTION=235549]2stroke[/MENTION] picture, I see something to correct. I have the power lead to the distribution box on the opposite side as pictured.

I made that exact mistake before. I will lay money it works just fine when wired as pictured.

 

[mr cribb]

Yup that gave me power.

Turn key no start now.

 

[mr cribb]

Not hearing fuel pump kick on, checked inertia switch, that is good to go.

Relays for FP and ECM check out good.

What else is there?

 

[2stroke]

Check power at the plug to the fuel pump. Do the CEL, ABS. Battery etc. Lights come on when you turn the key?

 

[mr cribb]

Check power at the plug to the fuel pump. Do the CEL, ABS. Battery etc. Lights come on when you turn the key?

Yes the lights light up on the dash. ABS (not so much) as it has been disconnected for years.

But the battery and CEL light up

I should also add this is a no fuel pump prime and no cranking.

 

[FR-425]

With the mains reversed you created a dead short.

Fusible link will be blown.

My truck has both. One on the battery positive as shown in the pic. The other is on the main to the power distribution block.

Not all trucks have both either by design or removed by owner/mechanic.

This is the very reason they put fusible links on there. Just in case it goes all oopsy *$6&

 

[mr cribb]

This concerns me now, because I have changed both battery cables to something other than OEM ford. The pigtails off of the positive and negative cables were spliced into the new cables.

Where else would a main fusible link be located? I know there's one IN the harness that goes to the computer.... I hope it isn't that one, because that means the whole harness needs to be removed.

 

[YC1]

Have you checked all of your fuses?

You can see if will turn over by applying your own 12 volts on the starter solenoid using a jumper.

 

[FR-425]

This concerns me now, because I have changed both battery cables to something other than OEM ford. The pigtails off of the positive and negative cables were spliced into the new cables.

Where else would a main fusible link be located? I know there's one IN the harness that goes to the computer.... I hope it isn't that one, because that means the whole harness needs to be removed.

The only other one I know if is at the interior fuse block. But your interior stuff is working.

Double check that you have voltage at the power distribution block.

If you do then you probably just have a stuck relay or two.

Keep in mind if the fender relay won't kick the starter even when you do the screwdriver bit then your starter is the issue. Also listen to the fender relay when you short across for the click, no click = bad relay

 

[FR-425]

P.S. I think your right about it being something simple, so stick with simple!

Don't turn it into something it's not.

 

[FR-425]

Get it cranking before moving on to the fuel pump.

 

[mr cribb]

I have checked the relays both fuel and ECM for continuity, both pass that test.

I haven't tried jumping the solenoid, because I hate electricity (was shocked once for trying something similar), so that's really the last test there is.

But I'm not hearing the fuel pump hum buzz whir (whatever you want to call it) like I used to.

 

[FR-425]

If your fender relay is a click'n then do the old hammer on the starter trick to bump it loose. Electric motors that are exposed to moisture don't like to sit.