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No power to ignition

pwrshft99

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Joined
June 18, 2010
Messages
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City, State
illinois
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer 5.0
Posted a few times but didn't get any replies...

Got a 20000 limited awd.. couple weeks ago went to start and had nothing, won't crank, fuel pump doesn't run, just dead. Interior and exterior lights work fine, power seats work. Power locks and windows do not work. My aftermarket radio is getting power but does not turn on.

I started with usual jumping then tried a known good battery. I went thru the fuses underhood and inside the cabin and all checked out. I swapped the ignition relay in the power distribution box and still get nothing. I replaced the ignition switch since it was cheap bit no luck there.

Using a test light I have power at both fuse boxes but no power at all to the ignition switch. I'm really stumped and too broke to keep guessing which part it is. A friend suggested replacing the ignition tumbler but that's not cheap and not certain its the problem.

Really could use some fresh ideas, I need this thing to be able to move under its own power.. thanks for reading.
 



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"PATS" (Passive Anti-Theft System) may be your culprit. If you have a second key, try it. In the event the transponder in the key is not communicating, the engine will not start. Cause could lie in the key itself, the ignition lockset/PATS reader assembly, or the PATS operation module. imp
 






BJB Fuse 5

On your 2000 model Fuse 5 (50 amp) in the Battery Junction Box controls power to the starter motor relay and the ignition switch. I suggest that you check for battery voltage to Fuse 5. It should be hot at all times. Then confirm that Fuse 5 is good.
 






Thanks fellas... there is power to the distribution block under the hood and the fuses were all good.

I thought about pats and the theft light is the only light in the dash that lights up. However it flashes the same way with the key turned to the on position as it does when the key is off. As I understand it, if there is a problem with anti theft it will flash a two digit code after leaving the key on a few minutes. It does not flash any codes.
 






Actually, with your key turned to "on", the theft light should eventually go out... I do believe. IF it goes solid or rapidly flashes, then you have an "Identity issue".
 






wiring diagram

According to my 2000 wiring diagrams, if you have battery voltage thru Fuse 5 then you should have battery voltage to the ignition switch unless the yellow wire from Fuse 5 to the switch is open. Did you disconnect the connector at the ignition switch (C223) and check the four yellow wire connections for battery voltage?

According to the wiring diagrams, PATS will not disable the starter motor relay. The starter motor should crank the engine even with a non-PATS key. The PCM will just not energize the fuel injectors.
 






What I did was stick my test light to the terminals on the back of the connector while it was plugged in, then I tried the key in different position but could not get any power. As I understood it, atleast one of the terminals should have power at all times..


Thanks for your help, sure its the last way you want to spend a Friday night lol
 






Theft light

. . .
I thought about pats and the theft light is the only light in the dash that lights up. However it flashes the same way with the key turned to the on position as it does when the key is off. As I understand it, if there is a problem with anti theft it will flash a two digit code after leaving the key on a few minutes. It does not flash any codes.

If the PCM does not detect that the ignition key has been switched from Lock to Start then it will not change the Theft light blink rate.
 






yellow wires

All of the pins connected to yellow wires on the ignition switch connector should have battery voltage at all times even if the connector is not connected to the ignition switch. The yellow wires provide the voltage for the various sections of the ignition switch. If you connect your test light between one of the yellow wires and chassis ground the test light should illuminate. If it doesn't you need to back track to Fuse 5 in the Battery Junction Box.
 






Ok had to wait a few days til I had time to look at it. Replaced fuse 5 and had power to the ignition. Tried to start it and it blew the fuse. I must have overlooked it

I did remove a aftermarket remote start system installed by the previous owner, thinking it could be the culprit. I traced every single wire and removed each spliced connection. There was one wire to the ignition switch that was cut and ran into the remote start module. I matched it up with the same color lead of the factory harness going to the switch. I'm positive I have it all removed and the wiring is now how it should be.

Got excited when I had power with the key on but never an easy fix for me lol
 












Ignition relay?

. . . I started with usual jumping then tried a known good battery. I went thru the fuses underhood and inside the cabin and all checked out. I swapped the ignition relay in the power distribution box and still get nothing. I replaced the ignition switch since it was cheap bit no luck there. . .

What is the "ignition relay in the power distribution box"? Are you describing a relay in the Battery Junction Box (BJB) located in the left rear portion of the engine compartment. If so, I am not aware of a relay in the BJB that controls ignition. There are 3 square relays: starter motor; blower motor; and PCM power. Did you replace one of those?
 






I just had my '02 EB 4x4 go dead in the same way and found the fuse that supplied the PTE and other ckts, blown. With 198K miles, I guess it was just testing me. I didn't find it until after towing home on my dolly with another vehicle. Took me a few hours of going through pinpoint checks to finally see the fuse that was blown but, alls well that ends well. Fuses used to relaly be obvious when they blew, but these are almost undetectable.

ScubaDave

If I read you right above, after you removed the remote starter gear, you went back to normal and the fuse held? Hope so.
 






Are you saying that you have restored the wiring to stock (deleted remote start) but now when you try to crank the starter Fuse 5 blows? Or does Fuse 5 blow when you switch the ignition from Off to Run?


Yes the fuse holds with the key on and everything works as it should, when I turn to run the fuse pops. The aftermarket remote start was easy to spot compared to the ford stuff, I'm not sure who did the install but everything was installed pretty clean. One of the wires ran to the black wire in the ignition tumbler that makes the door chime. When I clipped the wire sliced into it, it unzipped from the tumbler. I now have to keep finger pressure on it for it to stay in place.

It was the start relay I swapped with another which made no differance, but this was before I discovered the blown fuse.
 






disable the starter motor relay

Yes the fuse holds with the key on and everything works as it should, when I turn to run the fuse pops. . .

You stated "run" but I'm going to assume that you meant "start". If I'm correct then I suggest that you remove Fuse 24 (7.5 amp) in the Central Junction Box. That will interrupt power to the solenoid in the starter motor relay. Then replace BJB Fuse 5 (50 amp) with a good one. Since you have replaced the starter motor relay it is unlikely that the new one and the old one are both shorted. Turn the ignition key to Start (nothing should happen) and then check Fuse 5 again. If it is blown then there is a short in the wiring between Fuse 5 and the starter motor relay. If it is not blown then you either have a short in the wiring from the starter motor relay to the starter motor, or the starter motor is shorted, or the starter motor is seized, or the engine is seized.

To determine if the engine is seized, attach a breaker bar and socket to the balancer bolt and manually attempt to rotate the crankshaft.

If the engine rotates manually, then disconnect the battery and check the wiring at the starter motor from the starter motor relay for shorts. If no shorts, then pull the starter motor and have it tested at your local auto parts retailer.
 






Posted a few times but didn't get any replies...

Got a 20000 limited awd.. couple weeks ago went to start and had nothing, won't crank, fuel pump doesn't run, just dead. Interior and exterior lights work fine, power seats work. Power locks and windows do not work. My aftermarket radio is getting power but does not turn on.

I started with usual jumping then tried a known good battery. I went thru the fuses underhood and inside the cabin and all checked out. I swapped the ignition relay in the power distribution box and still get nothing. I replaced the ignition switch since it was cheap bit no luck there.

Using a test light I have power at both fuse boxes but no power at all to the ignition switch. I'm really stumped and too broke to keep guessing which part it is. A friend suggested replacing the ignition tumbler but that's not cheap and not certain its the problem.

Really could use some fresh ideas, I need this thing to be able to move under its own power.. thanks for reading.

i have the exact same problem.....at a complete loss.....need help
 






I'm having the same issues and just replaced a battery and a starter and still does nothing but I don't have a fuse tester
 






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