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No power when pedal pressed, and then would take off on it’s own..

NunavutExplorer

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August 27, 2017
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City, State
Nunavut
Year, Model & Trim Level
'17 XLT 3.5 App/Tech pkg
2017 Explorer 3.5NA. Temps in the -32-37*C range today,-52C windchill. Truck always plugged in and vehicle warmed up properly.

Just started today. No throttle response when press the pedal, and after a while when something kicks in, it takes off even when foot isn’t on the pedal just for a second. Then coasts again. Repeated that one short block to get back home to parking spot.

No codes. Yesterday was all normal in same temps. Stumped on this. Engine starts and idles normal, just when I try to drive.
 



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2017 Explorer 3.5NA. Temps in the -32-37*C range today,-52C windchill. Truck always plugged in and vehicle warmed up properly.

Just started today. No throttle response when press the pedal, and after a while when something kicks in, it takes off even when foot isn’t on the pedal just for a second. Then coasts again. Repeated that one short block to get back home to parking spot.

No codes. Yesterday was all normal in same temps. Stumped on this. Engine starts and idles normal, just when I try to drive.
is throttle plate sticking? TPS? IAC? just spitballing. that is darn cold!!!!!!!!!!!! BRRRRRR!!!! a nice 49-59 out here... and thats positive 59 ;) and thats F too!
 






Tried uploading of live diagnostic vid but wouldn’t complete uploading. Curious about fuel system 1 and 2. 1 says CL and 2 says N/A( most likely expo 3.5 only has one?). Pedal and tps fluctuates when the pedal is compressed.

Checked code history and was old ones from ABS(changed out this fall). C003A-15(right rear wheel speed sensor ahort circuit). C0036-07(left rear tone wheel). U0415-00(invalid data from ABS).

I don’t have a garage to thaw out. And this, and previous couple trucks never had a problem living outdoors. Just change batteries every couple years, trickle charger along with oil pan/block/battery heater’s plugged in during winter.
 






Are you sure the TPS is changing under the no acceleration condition?
Can you replicate the issue with it in park and see if throttle blade is opening while pressing pedal?
If the TB is not rotating, I would expect TPS to not change since that is (usually) mounted to the TB to register the blade angle.

There were some faults to the throttle body (TB) on some models where the throttle body wouldn't react to pedal inputs.
The repair was to replace the TB.
 






Are you sure the TPS is changing under the no acceleration condition?
Can you replicate the issue with it in park and see if throttle blade is opening while pressing pedal?
If the TB is not rotating, I would expect TPS to not change since that is (usually) mounted to the TB to register the blade angle.

There were some faults to the throttle body (TB) on some models where the throttle body wouldn't react to pedal inputs.
The repair was to replace the TB.

Yes, the TPS values were fluctuating along with the pedal values. Also RPM’s work normal in conjunction with the pedal when in park. I am guessing maybe some condensation somewhere(tranny maybe) making it not respond? Cause it shifts fine, go into reverse to get out of driveway, it shifts to reverse, shifts to drive, etc. to get back around the block, I had to keep switching from drive, and select shift as I have the paddles on steering wheel. Every time I shift to something else, it would nudge a bit with no response to the pedal.

I need to get it in a shop to thaw out, I think that would solve the problem. Then get the transmission fluid changed out.
 






I don't think the tranny would prevent the engine from revving up (or at least trying to), but with how everything is electronic and integrated together, it's possible.

My coworker has a 2010 mustang that has an intermittent throttle issue.
His will not rev up when he tried to take off from a light, which has caused it to stall a few times when letting the clutch out.
His issue is the sensor at the pedal going bad.

If your throttle body is opening, the engine will have a different sound, regardless if it's getting fuel or not.
If the engine doesn't sound different when off vs. on the throttle, that leads me to believe it's throttle body related.

Can you upload your video to Youtube and provide a link?
 






Ok. Will try that tonight when done work. As my shifts are 12hrs.
 






When my son helpsd me while I checked the throttle body, here is a video. Can hear like a whining sound it makes.



And here is a video of throttle body with the tube removed. Sorry was -29c with -36 windchill



No codes on scanner. But after I did the throttle body test with the air tube from the filter off of the throttle body, these turned red. Scanner said had to do emmision and other tests again. Bit vehicle in no shape to drive to do them.
BE498E05-7B70-421F-8E15-EE0DF7CB7104.jpeg
 






Good videos. It shows the throttle body rotating and engine revving.
I don't know if the whining is normal or not.

Unfortunately, since the video was taken stationary, it's hard to determine if it was acting up since I think you mentioned it seems to only do it when driving.

You mentioned TPS (throttle body) and pedal input matched each other. This was when it was acting up, correct?
When it acts up, if you give it more throttle, does the engine sound different?

Throwing another crazy idea, could it be fuel pump? A fuel pump may work good enough for free-revving, but once you put it under load, it cannot keep up. Are you able to see real time fuel pressure with your scanner?

Just throwing out ideas to see if we can help. It's a bit hard to fully diagnose over a forum, but we'll keep plugging away at it to hopefully help you figure it out.
 






Good videos. It shows the throttle body rotating and engine revving.
I don't know if the whining is normal or not.

Unfortunately, since the video was taken stationary, it's hard to determine if it was acting up since I think you mentioned it seems to only do it when driving.

You mentioned TPS (throttle body) and pedal input matched each other. This was when it was acting up, correct?
When it acts up, if you give it more throttle, does the engine sound different?

Throwing another crazy idea, could it be fuel pump? A fuel pump may work good enough for free-revving, but once you put it under load, it cannot keep up. Are you able to see real time fuel pressure with your scanner?

Just throwing out ideas to see if we can help. It's a bit hard to fully diagnose over a forum, but we'll keep plugging away at it to hopefully help you figure it out.
Sorry. Forgot to mention I also had it on live data when trying to drive. The TPS value didn’t change(so no engine tone change as was no rpms). But it does match the pedal value when in parked, or if engine off/system on. I had the tps on graph mode when trying to drive. So didn’t see if the pedal value changed when trying to drive.

Edit-That sound definitely not normal. It makes it when pedal is compressed. I just noticed it a few days before this incident. So that has something to do with this. Something in the throttle body. My boy also had the pedal floored when on, seems like the throttle body valve didn’t open much, should have opened all the way? Unless there is a restriction for it not to when only floored on idle?
 






Can hear the buzzing in the first vid when the pedal is pressed, not sure if it is due to the TPS or the other sensor on throttle body that is faulty. No engine light on the dash, no codes on the scanner. So am lost on what it could be. When in park, with engine on and off, the tps and pedal values fluctuate on tests. But when I tried to drive it with live data on the tps graph, tps value didn’t change. And vehicle was only able to coast with no response from the pedal. Once in a while it would kick in and accelerate on its own (with no pressure on pedal) for a second or 2. During that second the tps value shot up on the graph.

No dealership in my remote community, so no chance of reseting tps. I just have a Innova 3100RS obd2 scanner and it doesn’t have that function.
Partsavatar.ca is where I get all my parts from. And they have some with tps on it, and one refurbished one with both the tps and the other sensor(not sure what that one is) that is on the throttle body also. May try the refurbished one as it has both sensors, or just go with the new ones with just the tps and hope the other sensor is just a bolt on with no special setting value like the tps.
 






Can hear the buzzing in the first vid when the pedal is pressed, not sure if it is due to the TPS or the other sensor on throttle body that is faulty. No engine light on the dash, no codes on the scanner. So am lost on what it could be. When in park, with engine on and off, the tps and pedal values fluctuate on tests. But when I tried to drive it with live data on the tps graph, tps value didn’t change. And vehicle was only able to coast with no response from the pedal. Once in a while it would kick in and accelerate on its own (with no pressure on pedal) for a second or 2. During that second the tps value shot up on the graph.

No dealership in my remote community, so no chance of reseting tps. I just have a Innova 3100RS obd2 scanner and it doesn’t have that function.
Partsavatar.ca is where I get all my parts from. And they have some with tps on it, and one refurbished one with both the tps and the other sensor(not sure what that one is) that is on the throttle body also. May try the refurbished one as it has both sensors, or just go with the new ones with just the tps and hope the other sensor is just a bolt on with no special setting value like the tps.

I think the bolded part is the key.

One last test (if you haven't done it), do the same drive but monitor pedal input. If the pedal input keeps responding while it doesn't accelerate, then that's point towards the throttle body. If pedal input stops responding, then focus on the pedal sensor.

I will say, it doesn't mean one if of those is bad, but narrows it down.

Example, the TPS might not change due to a bad connection between ECU and throttle body, so the TB is not getting input from ECU. You could do one more test with multimeter on one of the (input) wires at the TB to verify if the input is fluctuating or not.

Sorry to keep throwing out tests, but the other option is to start throwing parts at it. If you have the money to spare, go for it. 😉
 






I think the bolded part is the key.

One last test (if you haven't done it), do the same drive but monitor pedal input. If the pedal input keeps responding while it doesn't accelerate, then that's point towards the throttle body. If pedal input stops responding, then focus on the pedal sensor.

I will say, it doesn't mean one if of those is bad, but narrows it down.

Example, the TPS might not change due to a bad connection between ECU and throttle body, so the TB is not getting input from ECU. You could do one more test with multimeter on one of the (input) wires at the TB to verify if the input is fluctuating or not.

Sorry to keep throwing out tests, but the other option is to start throwing parts at it. If you have the money to spare, go for it. 😉
Thanks. Will monitor the pedal when trying to drive. I don’t know why no engine light or codes pop up when it gets faulty. That would make it so much easier.
I am pretty sure the pedal value is going to be good when testing. As it is making that humming sound from the throttle body whenever the pedal is touched.
No worries on more tests. Am happy to try them. I was thinking about the resistance from the pedal test the other night. But I had to take a snowmobile ride to the cabin after work to grab my son’s knee brace. Left it earlier this year, and the sea ice is just frozen enough to safely get to our island.
 






I think the bolded part is the key.

One last test (if you haven't done it), do the same drive but monitor pedal input. If the pedal input keeps responding while it doesn't accelerate, then that's point towards the throttle body. If pedal input stops responding, then focus on the pedal sensor.

I will say, it doesn't mean one if of those is bad, but narrows it down.

Example, the TPS might not change due to a bad connection between ECU and throttle body, so the TB is not getting input from ECU. You could do one more test with multimeter on one of the (input) wires at the TB to verify if the input is fluctuating or not.

Sorry to keep throwing out tests, but the other option is to start throwing parts at it. If you have the money to spare, go for it. 😉
OK, did the live data again. So the pedal values change(2 values on the accelerator pedal) and the TPS value doesn’t when it is stuck on coasting(limp mode I assume). And when it spools up on it’s own without foot on the pedal, tps value shoots up until it goes to limp mode again. So will order a throttle body and see if that solves the problem. There was another TPS value, TPS B or something like that. When in limp mode that one changed value like the pedal, but the main TPS one doesn’t.
So am guessing it doesn’t throw an engine light or odb codes because TPS B still fluctuates? Sorry of I am not making sense.
 






Not sure what TPS B is, but it does sound like the throttle body is the culprit.

If I get a chance tomorrow, I'll see if I can hook up my OBDII reader to my Explorer and check out the different TPS options.
 






Not sure what TPS B is, but it does sound like the throttle body is the culprit.

If I get a chance tomorrow, I'll see if I can hook up my OBDII reader to my Explorer and check out the different TPS options.
I think it is just like the pedal with 2 options. One fully closed, another fully open. Or more of a tps voltage at certain throttle body valve percentages.

I know on my Polaris 800 and 850 snowmobiles, the tps has certain requirements. Start off fully closed throttle body with tps off. Install tps and set idle plate to XX.x voltage. Then make sure wide open throttle doesn’t exceed x...x voltage.

So the multiple TPS on the expy, would most likely fall into those guidelines. I think I remember seeing 3 different TPS options in live data. But the main one that made sense to check was just the TPS, no a or b after it.
 






I just did a quick test with my OBDII reader and Torque App.

There were what appears to be a few different sensor names related to pedal and throttle position.

Accelerator PedalPosition, this had D, E and F, but only 2 were changing. One of these matched TP (Manifold), but I don't remember which one.

Relative Throttle Position

Throttle Position (Manifold)

All this was with engine off, but in Run mode. In the end, I think the throttle body is the issue with yours and should solve it. Let us know if that fixes it.
 






I just did a quick test with my OBDII reader and Torque App.

There were what appears to be a few different sensor names related to pedal and throttle position.

Accelerator PedalPosition, this had D, E and F, but only 2 were changing. One of these matched TP (Manifold), but I don't remember which one.

Relative Throttle Position

Throttle Position (Manifold)

All this was with engine off, but in Run mode. In the end, I think the throttle body is the issue with yours and should solve it. Let us know if that fixes it.
Thanks so much for taking your time. Much appreciated.
 






Well, I did get the throttle body. Unfortunately it was for the platinum/sport models. Although it did state it would fit my XLT. So sending it back for refund. Did get the proper one ordered that day. So a waiting game again.

Merry Christmas and happy holidays all!! Will update once I get the correct one.
 



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Well, I got the correct throttle body. But still no change. I don’t know what else to try. Will try get a place to get in the shop to thaw out for a couple days this week. No time to work on it right now due to work. Still no response when in reverse or drive. But when parked rpms go up. So am guessing tps still showing same. Didn’t have time to hook up scanner.

Maybe try a new gas pedal? Maybe it only works in park but not drive?
 






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