No start codes 114,116 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

No start codes 114,116

sqhurt

Well-Known Member
Joined
December 10, 2007
Messages
173
Reaction score
0
City, State
ohio
Year, Model & Trim Level
93 sport & 4 door
Had problems with it not starting while back, changed the plugs an she fired up(this was bout 2 weeks ago) Since then its still been hard to start but once it did would idle rough then smooth out an run fine the whole time its been running... Shifts great, an you step on the peddle an she goes..I tested the fuel pressure it all came back good..

So after messing with it for a while cam on here to look at things an went out an she tried to fire up the first time but died, so thats when I checked for codes.. Got Intake Air Temperature sensor out of test range, And Coolant Temperature sensor out of self test range! does this mean there bad? Or just from testing it while it is cold? Also whats the Intake Temperature sensor? Is that the iac? An the coolant one is the ect right? By the upper radiator hose on the front of motor?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Both of those codes are present because the engine wasn't warmed up when the KOEO test was done. The air intake temperature sensor is a sensor on the upper intake that monitors the temp of the incoming air. It's not the same as the IAC. The coolant temp sensor that you're referring to is the ECT. Yes it's on the front of the block in the lower intake. There are two sensors near each other. One has a few wires going into a pigtail, this is the ECT. The other sensor there with one wire is for the temp gauge.
 






Both of those codes are present because the engine wasn't warmed up when the KOEO test was done. The air intake temperature sensor is a sensor on the upper intake that monitors the temp of the incoming air. It's not the same as the IAC. The coolant temp sensor that you're referring to is the ECT. Yes it's on the front of the block in the lower intake. There are two sensors near each other. One has a few wires going into a pigtail, this is the ECT. The other sensor there with one wire is for the temp gauge.

K thanks.. Them are the only codes im getting an still dont want to start for me.. I know the lower intake has a leak but nothing to major.. Once it starts it runs like a champ, stomp on the gas she goes. Gonna try tighten the intake bolts to see if that helps any
 






Can you get it to run long enough to heat the engine up, then repeat the KOEO test and see if those two codes go away? Or maybe heat those two sensor up with a heat gun/hair dryer until they are warm?

How thorough was your fuel pressure test? This sort of problem just says, "fuel problem" to me.

Any sign of a major vacuum leak?
 






Can you get it to run long enough to heat the engine up, then repeat the KOEO test and see if those two codes go away? Or maybe heat those two sensor up with a heat gun/hair dryer until they are warm?

How thorough was your fuel pressure test? This sort of problem just says, "fuel problem" to me.

Any sign of a major vacuum leak?

Well I have not tested it again, but did test the fuel pressure 2 weeks ago. Cause it was doing the same thing.. I put the fuel gauge on it primed it about 4 times read like 39 psi with koeo, Then I started it an it went down to 35 an stand there for a good 5 mins while I had it running.. Once I turned the truck off the pressure went back to the 39 psi an stayed there for a good 5 mins before I just took the gauge off. Now I did buy a new fuel filter , but didn't put it on cause I had pressure an everything. Figured since I had good psi then the filter shouldn't be glogged..

When an if it does start, it kinda sounds like a carb motor out of timing knocking an shaking.. I have to keep it rev'd up to just under 2k rpm for about a lil less then a min then it all smooths out an will run fine, until you shut it off an try to start it again.. It was it would be hard to start for the first time in the day, but after driving it an as long as it didn't sit over night it would start right up.

So I don't know what it could be, Have a 95 mustang my girl is driving at the moment an got this so she could drive in the winter instead of my stang..
 






I put the fuel gauge on it primed it about 4 times read like 39 psi with koeo, Then I started it an it went down to 35 an stand there for a good 5 mins while I had it running.. Once I turned the truck off the pressure went back to the 39 psi an stayed there for a good 5 mins before I just took the gauge off.
That's normal behavior. Was the engine hard to start or running rough when you got these results for the fuel pressure?
 






That's normal behavior. Was the engine hard to start or running rough when you got these results for the fuel pressure?

Not quit sure what your asking.. But before I checked the pressure my fpr was bad had the gas in my vacuum line. So I replaced the regulator(with a junkyard one) Then did that fuel pressure test an that was the result from the test after the replacement.

But before the replacement an test, it would take a few cranks an giving it gas to start.. But like I said it would be a bear to start first thing in the day but after that it would start alot easier once things got warmed up..

Now after the replacement of the fpr an test, I changed the plugs which was all wet from gas.. We cranked an cranked it trying to get it to start before I changed the plugs(they was due to be changed anyways.) But after I did the plugs it fired right up, then for the first week or so it did the same things hard to start first thing of the day(had to give it gas while starting) but would start up rough,backfire, an make all kinds of noises then would smooth out after a minute. Then the past few days it seems to don't matter if the truck is cold or hot, just hard to start giving it gas while starting. I almost had it started a few times today just from turning the key but then would die right away.

Trying to think of everything here.... The check engine light comes on with koeo then goes away while cranking, oil gauge believe goes all the way down then up when cranking..Checked the shutoff switch, its not deployed. I guess it would be k if it starts then dies. Im thinking maybe a sensor or some sort, or the intake gasket. Once I get one thing fixed an seems to be k an able to run something else happens LOL...

I am also trying to fix a 94 Corsica for my grandfather so it all kinda sucks...

Thanks for all your Help.. An if you have any suggestions please feel free to throw them out there!
 






K so last night I threw the battery on charge. Once I get home from work I go threw the charged battery in an still nothing it wanted to start but would die then just crank.. After about 10 mins trying to start it I figured I would see what kind of fuel pressure I had an it read bout 41-42 psi with koeo... So after a min seeing if it dropped it didn't so I thought what the heck lets try an start it, what do ya know it fired right up with out giving it gas.. So once it ran the fuel pressure dropped to about 38 psi.. So its all a mystery to me
 






K spoke to soon.. drove it around an ran fine, went to grandparents house an it sat for about an hour. Went out to start it an nothing! The fuel pump would not even kick on, couldn't hear it start up like I usually do.. So I hooked up the fuel pressure gauge an it still should 42 psi even though you could not hear the fuel pump kick on when you turn the koeo! checked fuses an even switched out different relays with still no luck with it kicking on. Then all the sudden I turn the key one last time an could finally hear the fuel pump run!! Wtf is going on here? Anyone?
 






its your fuel pump relay
i had the same problem with my old 92 explorer
i didnt find mine at first as there was another row of relays under the upper row in the under hood box
 






its your fuel pump relay
i had the same problem with my old 92 explorer
i didnt find mine at first as there was another row of relays under the upper row in the under hood box

So are you saying there are two relays to the fuel pump? one on top an one underneath the top fuel pump relay? Mine has the like 6 relays in the box along with some large fuses an like 4 small fuses..
 












Where you are getting fuel pressure, I don't know that the fuel pump relay is the problem. An open relay would also show up as low/no pressure. Unless, the engine readily started when it had 40+ psi. When I asked this before, I was looking for a specific, "I put the gauge on it and tried to start it and the pressure stayed at ~40 psi while trying to start/after starting" Like what you posted in post #8, except in that instance it appeared to start and run fine.

Post #9 is interesting. you claim the pump didn't come on, but you had 42 psi at the fuel rail. I would be curious what happened to the fuel pressure when you tried to start it, because, if the pump is not coming on, the pressure should have dropped almost immediately upon cranking. Sometimes it's these little details that make a difference.

Did you ever try to resolve the ECT/IAT codes, as suggested? Most likely, these codes were from running the test on a cold engine. In the unlikely event that there's another cause, it would be nice to know. I've heard of a few cases where the ECT fails open, which causes the computer to dump too much fuel in causing problems.
 






MrShorty touched on something in his post #13 that I've seen before. if the IAT or ECT sensors have failed they may read way cold (I know this is true on most GM vehicles but not sure about fords). If this is the case then the pcm will make the engine run very rich. Do you notice any kind of smoke when you get it going and it's near idle? This happened to a friend of mine...he noticed that his truck had tons of power but didn't start good and wouldn't idle...it turned out to be his IAT sensor.
 






Where you are getting fuel pressure, I don't know that the fuel pump relay is the problem. An open relay would also show up as low/no pressure. Unless, the engine readily started when it had 40+ psi. When I asked this before, I was looking for a specific, "I put the gauge on it and tried to start it and the pressure stayed at ~40 psi while trying to start/after starting" Like what you posted in post #8, except in that instance it appeared to start and run fine.

Post #9 is interesting. you claim the pump didn't come on, but you had 42 psi at the fuel rail. I would be curious what happened to the fuel pressure when you tried to start it, because, if the pump is not coming on, the pressure should have dropped almost immediately upon cranking. Sometimes it's these little details that make a difference.

Did you ever try to resolve the ECT/IAT codes, as suggested? Most likely, these codes were from running the test on a cold engine. In the unlikely event that there's another cause, it would be nice to know. I've heard of a few cases where the ECT fails open, which causes the computer to dump too much fuel in causing problems.


With the pressure test I believe it stayed to 40 psi during cranking. Not real sure have not messed with it since the last time.. It may of bounced down 1 psi during cranking. Will have to double check that.

When I could not hear the pump kick on n still got pressure I was confused alot also. Figured there would not be any pressure since the pump didn't whind up.

I have not tried to mess with the ect as of yet, kinda gave up on it for a min.. Helping my grandfather fix his 94 corisca. But Ill try messing with the truck tomorrow an throw in another ect an see what happens..

Thanks MrShorty
 






MrShorty touched on something in his post #13 that I've seen before. if the IAT or ECT sensors have failed they may read way cold (I know this is true on most GM vehicles but not sure about fords). If this is the case then the pcm will make the engine run very rich. Do you notice any kind of smoke when you get it going and it's near idle? This happened to a friend of mine...he noticed that his truck had tons of power but didn't start good and wouldn't idle...it turned out to be his IAT sensor.

If an when it does start, it will always smoke as long as it's sitting. On first start of the day it will smoke then once driving for a min or two it all goes away. It will do this every time you start it rather it sat over night or 30 mins. But it seems to idle alright nothing to extreme has slight shaking if anything, but could be just normal. Like I stated in the post before this I put this on the back burner this week. But tomorrow once I get the radiator in my grandfathers car I'll mess with the exploder some.. Thanks
 






Have you checked your fuel mileage lately? It sounds to me like it's running rich and the reason it's not starting could be too much fuel and it's flooding itself....you'd know if it was running rich because you would get horrible fuel mileage. Maybe someone here has a way to test the IAT sensor and the ECT sensor to make sure they're doing what they're supposed to be doing. If you have a scan tool you may be able to see what those sensors are reading after you get the engine running....that's how my friend figured out his IAT sensor, it read -117* on the scan tool and the thermometer on his house read 70*
 






Have you checked your fuel mileage lately? It sounds to me like it's running rich and the reason it's not starting could be too much fuel and it's flooding itself....you'd know if it was running rich because you would get horrible fuel mileage. Maybe someone here has a way to test the IAT sensor and the ECT sensor to make sure they're doing what they're supposed to be doing. If you have a scan tool you may be able to see what those sensors are reading after you get the engine running....that's how my friend figured out his IAT sensor, it read -117* on the scan tool and the thermometer on his house read 70*

Well it rained here pretty much all day an was cold but still went out in it an changed the sensors.. The ECT an IAT both seemed to be bad the part of em that went in the motor was all red an crappy looking unlike the other ones I put in where they was just the cooper look.. I got my battery on charge, was dead from cranking an cranking it with no start. So going to hook it back up tomorrow an cross my fingers..
 






Just to update this, I took my control module/coil pack what ever its called off an had it tested at auto zone an the primary's were bad.. put a god one on an she fired up..
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Back
Top