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No Start, One Click. New Starter, No Clicks, No Start.

prayforsurf0

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City, State
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1998 Ford Explorer XLT
Hey guys, I have a 98' Ex and my buddy has a 00' Ex

He just bought the car and started driving home, but it died on the way. AAA came and the battery checked out good, but apparently the alternator was tested and deemed weak output. They towed him the rest of the way home.

He replaced the alternator and trickle charged the battery over night and tried to start it. He got one click.

I told him could be the starter solenoid/motor. I told him to replace it and make sure to disconnect battery.

After replacing he now has no start, no clicks, and no dash lights (but the car chime "dings" with the key in and the door open).

Sounds like he blew a fuse, but he insists he disconnected the battery beforehand.

Is this a PATS issue ? Starter relay ?

I told him to get a hold of a multi meter so we can start testing for voltage across the system, any other tips on what we should be doing to get it started ?
 


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prayforsurf0

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1998 Ford Explorer XLT
Sounds like dirty or bad battery terminals
Or a bad ground on the starter big black ground wire

Agreed. First thing I had him do was clean all connections at battery and other ends of the cables. He sent pics and everything looked clean. I also told him to make sure all connections were tight. Doesn't seem to be the problem, that's checked off the list now.
 




XLTrunner

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How old is the battery? Depending on how it was tested, it's true condition may not have been revealed.
 




1998Exp

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Hey guys, I have a 98' Ex and my buddy has a 00' Ex

He just bought the car and started driving home, but it died on the way. AAA came and the battery checked out good, but apparently the alternator was tested and deemed weak output. They towed him the rest of the way home.

He replaced the alternator and trickle charged the battery over night and tried to start it. He got one click.

I told him could be the starter solenoid/motor. I told him to replace it and make sure to disconnect battery.

After replacing he now has no start, no clicks, and no dash lights (but the car chime "dings" with the key in and the door open).

Sounds like he blew a fuse, but he insists he disconnected the battery beforehand.

Is this a PATS issue ? Starter relay ?

I told him to get a hold of a multi meter so we can start testing for voltage across the system, any other tips on what we should be doing to get it started ?
First, donalds already gave you good advice.

My 2c: don't know if the 00 model has the starter under PATS control (98 did not), but if there is a PATS issue you'll see the THEFT light blinking rapidly. If it doesn't, it's something else.
Definitely tell your buddy to get some way of testing for voltage instead of continuing to throw parts at the problem - even a simple test light will do.
Because the engine died on the way and now even the dash lights are out, I would start by checking the ignition switch. Someone will certainly provide the test procedure from the 2000 EVTM - if your buddy is able to follow that.
 




fast_dave

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my buddy has a 00' Ex

He just bought the car and started driving home, but it died on the way. AAA came and the battery checked out good, but apparently the alternator was tested and deemed weak output. They towed him the rest of the way home.

Just sayin' for discussion sake :)

This story as written (and quoted above) doesn't make sense - to me at least...

MY EXPERIENCE WITH MY EXPLORER and FAILING ALTERNATORS
In my experience, when my X's alternator went south (twice in my 16 year ownership) first the battery light started "flickering" and then given some time it fully lit up bright red.

And because my battery was fully charged (up to that point in time), I was literally "driving on the battery" for AT LEAST two days, before completely draining the battery (while waiting for Amazon or Rock Auto to 2 Day Deliver deliver my new alternator).

So, that's my experience - now lets move onto your friend's experience...

WITH REGARDS TO YOUR FRIENDS X
You've written that when AAA showed up, I don't understand how they said his "battery checked out good" - "but the alternator had low output" ultimately having to tow him home...

Here's why; First, for AAA to check the alternator output, your friend's X had to be running...

Second, if the "battery checked out good" (as you wrote AAA claimed), why couldn't the X start under it's own power - or better yet - with a jump start from AAA? Why was ultimately towed home???

Again - just throwing this out there before everybody going down an overly complicated rabbit hole...

Perhaps you need to have another detailed discussion w/ your buddy and get back to us?

Carry on w/ the discussion ;)
 




MakinJeepsWeep!

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Get a new key made, ignition switch replaced, seen both items cause these issues before. I dont know how or why but it does.
 




1998Exp

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Get a new key made, ignition switch replaced, seen both items cause these issues before. I dont know how or why but it does.
If memory serves, the switch is separate from the key cylinder and no need to replace a key if the switch is bad.
 




C420sailor

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Had this happen before. Bad battery.
 




prayforsurf0

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1998 Ford Explorer XLT
Just sayin' for discussion sake :)

This story as written (and quoted above) doesn't make sense - to me at least...

MY EXPERIENCE WITH MY EXPLORER and FAILING ALTERNATORS
In my experience, when my X's alternator went south (twice in my 16 year ownership) first the battery light started "flickering" and then given some time it fully lit up bright red.

And because my battery was fully charged (up to that point in time), I was literally "driving on the battery" for AT LEAST two days, before completely draining the battery (while waiting for Amazon or Rock Auto to 2 Day Deliver deliver my new alternator).

So, that's my experience - now lets move onto your friend's experience...

WITH REGARDS TO YOUR FRIENDS X
You've written that when AAA showed up, I don't understand how they said his "battery checked out good" - "but the alternator had low output" ultimately having to tow him home...

Here's why; First, for AAA to check the alternator output, your friend's X had to be running...

Second, if the "battery checked out good" (as you wrote AAA claimed), why couldn't the X start under it's own power - or better yet - with a jump start from AAA? Why was ultimately towed home???

Again - just throwing this out there before everybody going down an overly complicated rabbit hole...

Perhaps you need to have another detailed discussion w/ your buddy and get back to us?

Carry on w/ the discussion ;)

Agreed. There's some holes in the story.

I had him borrow a multimeter. First I had him turn on the headlights and check the battery. 12.2V. Good right ?

Then I had him check for continuity at the 50A fuse 5. It was blown. He replaced it. It blew again right away.

So theres a short somewhere. He changed the starter, Im thinking a bad connection at the starter ? Or maybe he swapped wires/connection points ?
 
















MakinJeepsWeep!

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Not all vehicles but some do have a wore ran to the key tumbler that is activated by the teeth of the key. I've never had to do one on a X so idk if it's there but for 2$ can't hurt.
If memory serves, the switch is separate from the key cylinder and no need to replace a key if the switch is bad.
 




MakinJeepsWeep!

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And I agree I'm pretty sure there separate it is on my 01 b3000
 




prayforsurf0

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So Fuse 5 (50 A) in the power distribution box under the hood blew. Replaced it and it blew again.
 




fast_dave

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@prayforsurf0

RE: Post 10 of this thread

Approaching this sequentially, did the 50 Amp fuse start blowing AFTER the installation of the "new" starter motor or?

Need more information regarding the timing of this event.

Also would be good to know where he bought the starter and if it was truly "new" or as I'm imagining, rebuilt in Mexico.
 




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