No start problem

[Spdrcer34]

On my way to work today I had to stop and fill the tire with air, went to go re-start my X, and it just made a weird clicking sound. I knew I didn't have a bad battery, it's a 1 m.o. Optima, but I had a guy try to jump start my X, exact same clicking sound.

I popped the clutch (I love my 5 spd!), and drove it to Schucks, they did a load test, and got 14.25v-14.49v under load.....we determined it might be the solenoid on the fenderwall, so $20.00 later I swapped out the solenoid.

SAME CLICK

Since the motor was now off, he tested the batter itself. It tested fine @ 12.5v. I went inside and priced a starter, $160! DAMN!

Is there ANYTHING else it might be other than a bad starter?

And if it IS the starter, why the heck are they SO DAMN EXPENSIVE? I'm used to working on GM's and they're starters are CHEAP compared to this, and they have the Solenoid mounted on them! (not that it's a GREAT design, but you see what I mean?)

Ryan

 

[Robb]

Ford starters have the solenoid mounted on them also, and Autozone has them for $100-$130.

Yea, that is a little expensive. I know that I can get starters/altenators rebuild locally for about half that. Maybe you have a rebuilder locally also.

 

[cjpwalker]

Click means the solonoid is probably working. Try the ol' hammer test on the starter. If it starts, drive to the parts house and cough up the dough for a new one.

 

[marragtop]

Make sure the cables going to the solenoid and starter are tight and not corroded.

 

[osker75]

I had the same exact problem the other day ago. Just take the starter off and take it to autozone they will test it for free and then you will know for sure if its it or not, costed me about 126 for a new starter.

 

[Opera House]

The solenoid on the starter costs about $50 if you want to do a partial rebuild. I've found the brushes don't wear much on these geard starters. One common problem is the 1/4 inch push on connector on this solenoid which gets corroded. I'd clean those connections first.

 

[Spdrcer34]

I was SPECIFICALLY told NOT to 'whack it with a hammer'. Something about the 'Permanent Magnet' set-up this particular starter has.

I also called my mom, and sister, and they are Fairly certain that this is the original starter. 12 yrs. and 166,5xx miles isn't bad for a starter!


Ryan

 

[MrShorty]

The solenoid on the starter costs about $50 if you want to do a partial rebuild. I've found the brushes don't wear much on these geard starters. One common problem is the 1/4 inch push on connector on this solenoid which gets corroded. I'd clean those connections first.

I second this idea. Had the same thing happen to me this weekend. Sometimes the starter would run, sometimes it just clicked. When I took the starter off so I could test it, I found that it would run everytime I applied power to the two leads (used jumper cables. note that the starter is case grounded, so I had to attach the negative jumper cable between the case of the starter and the frame). While the connectors didn't look bad, I noticed that that push on connector seemed a little loose. Tightened it up and cleaned the other connectors, reinstalled the starter, and it seems to be doing fine. I will need a little more time to know if this is going to permanently fix it, but I'm optimistic.

 

[DeRocha]

I just replaced my starter last week. The 12v fender relay would just click with no noise from the starter. I wiggled the wires around the battery and starter and tugged on the push on solenoid signal wire without any luck... I had crawled under the truck and lightly tapped the side of the starter 3 times and it started back up. The Starter worked fine for a week or so and did it again (another few taps and I was good to go). Since my starter was original I decided to replace the whole thing rather than chance a solenoid rebuild. I really didn't want to to rebuild the solenoid and have the starter go bad in February (working in your driveway in 0 deg weather is not fun). A rebuilt starter was $105 and new was $150 (both with lifetime warrantee). I picked up the new one and found it contained a 8" long solenoid replacement wire (with a post rather than the push on connector). The wire had heat shrink connections at both ends. The instructions indicated the OEM push on connectors where found to internally corrode due to exposure to the elements. So although the wire would register 12+v It couldn't carry the necessary current to actuate the solenoid. I cleaned up all battery wire ring terminals with a wire brush to get rid of some oxidation. Be careful with the cables going to the 12v fender relay as I snapped a post off the relay (they are copper and not too strong). Anyway the starter has performed as expected with no issues. Although it was pricey it offers a piece of mind knowing it is one less thing to go wrong and potentially leave you stranded.

 

[TPLYNCH]

If your battery cables are the original, I'd replace those first. They corrode on the inside and cannot carry the necessary juice to turn the starter, resulting in the clicking sound....