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No Start

pearsonbe

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Hooked up the fuel tester, turned the key to "run", waited for the pump to finish priming, then read the guage. I saw 0 pressure. Removed the intake hose, opened the throttle plate, and sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body. The engine started right up and ran for a few seconds.

I replaced the fuel pump and filter a few years ago. The line from the tank up to the driver's seat was also replaced. Could a bad fuel pressure regulator prevent starting? Is it safe to bypass it for a quick test?
 
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natenkiki2004

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Prime it a few times, on and off and see if you get a reading, might just be air in the lines?

If not then remove the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator and see if you have fuel there. If so, there's a tear in the diaphragm and it needs to be replaced.

Do you get any cylinders firing when you try to start?

Have you pulled any spark plugs to see if they are wet?
 
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pearsonbe

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I tried priming two or three times, but it didn't help. Where is the regulator in reference to the shrader valve? Can I get to it without removing the upper intake? This site has everything. I'll try to find a picture in a thread.

No. The cylinders won't fire unless I feed it starter fluid. So I know it's a fuel issue.

No. I haven't pulled the plugs.
 
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murkinstock

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Are you sure the fuel pump is working and you're not just hearing the relays? because when I replaced my pump, it's so quiet that all I hear is the relays. If it's working then I would start at the fuel pressure regulator. I guess it's possible that it's so shot it's just pumping gas right through it.
 
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FR-425

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Fuel pressure regulator:

FPR_zpsa542e866.png


Image borrowed from Iron weasel's post. Thanks Weas.
 
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pearsonbe

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I'm pretty sure, but not certain the pump is working. I hear the standard electrical whine when I turn the key. But I couldn't get under the car near the tank before it shut off. I'll check again tomorrow when I have some help. Another option is to disconnect the fuel line to the regulator. If the pump is working, fuel should spray everywhere.

Thanks for the image. Now that I think about it, that is likely the problem. The truck was hard to start and got progressively worse over time.
 
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natenkiki2004

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It's easy to pull the vacuum line on the pressure regulator to see if it's a tear in the diaphragm (fuel leaking from vacuum line). From everything I've read and seen when messing with injectors, I don't see any way around removing the upper intake and fuel rail to replace the regulator.

If it hasn't been done in a long time, you'd do yourself a favor to replace the gaskets. Mine were rock hard and brittle even though the previous owner serviced that area several times.

If you hear the whine after the click of the relays then that's the pump. Whether or not it's pushing the right amount is another question but at least it's coming on :)


I wonder if it would be safe to pull the fuel pressure regulator return line, cap it with something, prime the pump once then remove the relay to the pump and try starting. Without the pressure being relieved to the tank by a faulty regulator, it should remain in the rail long enough to start the engine. Removing the relay would prevent the pump from building up too much pressure and damaging the system. This is just me thinking out loud, it may not be a wise thing to do.
 
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pearsonbe

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The fuel pump works. I couldn't find the vacuum hose that connects to the pressure regulator. Is it under the unit? I like your idea about removing the return line and capping the regulator, but I don't have anything on-hand that will fit.

When I pressed the shrader valve pin, a generous amount of fuel came out. The pump wasn't operating at the time; I didn't want to make a big mess. I may try that to determine if the pump is healthy. But I'm convinced the problem is the pressure regulator. So I plan to replace it.

What parts will I need other than a new upper intake gasket, fuel rail gasket, and regulator? Injector O-rings?
 
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FR-425

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You don't need any other parts, just the regulator.

No need to pull the intake, just remove the alternator for better access.

The regulator just pulls out of the fuel rail and has an o-ring seal.

Once you remove the bracket and fuel line just twist and pull and it will slide out. :salute:

:D
 
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pearsonbe

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Nice. That should save me a lot of work and some money.
 
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pearsonbe

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RockAuto has the Screw-On and Snap-In types. I haven't removed the old one yet, so I can't compare. Which one do I need? I'd like to order today.
 
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Maniak

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Being a 1991, you "MOST LIKELY" have the snap on style.. And of course, that style costs more. And.. there is no guarantee since a late 1991 could have the screw on style..

IIRC DannyBoy had the same kind on his 1991 (snap on style) and he grabbed replacement fuel lines from the junk yard (from 1 1992-1994) so he could not use the more plentiful/cheaper screw on style..

You need to look at the top of the FPR, where the line goes in. The version in the pic earlier in this thread is of the screw on style. If you have the clip on style the end of the line as it goes into the top of the FPR will look different.

~Mark
 
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pearsonbe

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Thanks, Mark. I'm almost certain mine is the same as the image. Will double-check this evening.
 
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pearsonbe

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We just replaced the regulator and still have the same no start condition. I primed the fuel pump several times and there is still 0 pressure at the shrader valve. That means there is a problem from the fuel rail back to the tank, right?
 
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natenkiki2004

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If your new regulator is working properly then that means you have a supply issue. Either fuel pump or fuel filter I would imagine. I don't think a fuel injector could leak enough to cause 0 pressure even after priming, even if all 6 were leaking.

Since you've done it before, I'd be tempted to say remove the fuel line after the filter to see if you're getting fuel there, if not, check before the filter. Narrow things down that way.
 
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pearsonbe

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Right. I would do the binary search, but it's on the street and the work is a PITA. My guess is that the line between the driver's seat and the fuel rail is blocked. I will probably have it towed to a shop.
 
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pearsonbe

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As a follow up, a local shop replaced the pump, filter, and a portion of the hard lines. Starts and runs fine now. I paid for it though. Total bill was $950. The pump was $350. I hope it was Ford because that's a lot. The one I used for replacement wasn't that much. Must have been junk. It only lasted 2 or 3 years.
 
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