Not another V8 swap thread (N2Ford)

[Giant97]

I'm almost finished with my 5.0 Trac upgrade. 5.0 is in. Almost everything is hooked up. Will be bringing it to an exhaust shop once everything is complete. The black device is the pats pulled from the donor (1998 Explorer) and the white one is the PATS from the 02 Sport Trac. Looks like I need to have the computer programmed to remove the PATS or can I just get a 97 computer and use that which has no pats and bypass the system or is it best to have it re-programmed?
Also I presume the 6 digit number I blanked out is the primary code for the doors?

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm almost finished with my 5.0 Trac upgrade. 5.0 is in. Almost everything is hooked up. Will be bringing it to an exhaust shop once everything is complete. The black device is the pats pulled from the donor (1998 Explorer) and the white one is the PATS from the 02 Sport Trac. Looks like I need to have the computer programmed to remove the PATS or can I just get a 97 computer and use that which has no pats and bypass the system or is it best to have it re-programmed?
Also I presume the 6 digit number I blanked out is the primary code for the doors?

Your door code is that 39131 number, which you don't need if you program in one new number, your preferred code. It's simple, I think you just enter the OEM code, then push "1", and then your chosen new code. That new code will not replace the OEM code, but it will replace any prior added code, and it will survive any battery disconnect.

I believe for your 5.0 swap you just replace your old PCM and PATS as a matched pair, plugged in they should work together, with the original PCM/PATS keys. If you don't have all of those as a matched set, you might as well keep your old PATS and keys, and have them reprogrammed back in with the new PCM.

 

[N2FORD]

He had to wire in the old style PATS as my 01 is a job 2 meaning it had the newer style key like your 02 key. The 98 style key will still fit in the cylinder you can have one of that style duplicated from your key so it fits your doors and such. Hope that makes sense. The 97 computer did not run very well on mine. My computer went bad a couple of years after the swap and I tried a 97. It would start and run just not the best. I think someone mentioned why but can't remember.

Mine is down now, not sure what is wrong with, towed it to a shop today. I have messed with it all week and give up. Seems to be a fuel issue but could be a wiring issue. I have another thread about that as I thought it was the fuel pump.

 

[410Fortune]

I recently completed 5.0 conversion in a 02 trac (job 2)
I wired in PATS from the 99 explorer donor using the 99 5.0 PCM, PATS module, key and tumbler
The 99 PATS system was piggybacked onto the 02 wiring
No tuning needed.
We used a Dakota Digital speedometer interface to do the "buffering" for the vehicle speed sensor signals to the PCM, cruise control, and instrument cluster
Truck has been running and driving for a few months now, no codes, no issues.......

ALL WIRING DETAILED HERE

Ford Ranger forum

The Premiere Site For Ford Ranger Enthusiasts

ford-rangers.com

You can also use a 97.5 pre pats PCM but beware there are a few wiring changes between the 97.5 and 98-01 5.0 PCM's

 

[ttbit]

You can also use a 97.5 pre pats PCM but beware there are a few wiring changes between the 97.5 and 98-01 5.0 PCM's

I do seem to remember some wiring differences between the years, so yes... Check the diagrams to be sure when you all are swapping different year ECUs in. I am lucky that I had a 2001 job 1 and use a 96 ecu.

 

[410Fortune]

we have a few 5.0 swapped trucks around here, some of them still use pats keys, 02 ST, 98 Ranger...everyonce in a while they will have a PATS halo or key issue.....when that happens to them I am glad my 88 BII uses the 97 mercury computer that is compatible with the 98-01 style EGR system no pats!
These days deleting pats can be done more cheaply, so it is a good option to consider. I saw a service on Ebay, $75 send him your PCM they delete pats send it back. LOL smart.............

 

[ttbit]

I saw a service on Ebay, $75 send him your PCM they delete pats send it back. LOL smart.............

Yep. Someone is making money for nothin'. : )

 

[Giant97]

Hopefully last question.
What did you use for the front driveshaft?
I am getting a 95 Ford F-150 133 inch wheelbase driveshaft and the original from the AWD explorer is to short for the front.

 

[N2FORD]

Had to have one made. I think it was an Expedition that was cut down. I tried all kinds of combos from many different brands. I am running the bigger 4406 transfer case so that might be different than what you are running.

 

[Giant97]

On my final steps. I'm looking to integrate the G Force Transducer into the system.

I'm planning on attaching a flat aluminum piece to this which I would think is level (when the truck is level).

and then attaching

to that.

I presume that g-force needs to be level and I presume level by the plastic and not the two back mounting studs.

I'm following directions from here. 5.0 swap into 2002 Sport Trac

If I'm reading directions listed the following needs to be done is as follows.

Orange/Black wire from the g-force gets added to pin 14 which is also orange/black (on my 2002)
Yellow wire replaces the black/white wire plugged into pin 13
Orange/white gets a new pin which is plugged into pin 1 (which is empty)

Then pin 19 (which I believe was black wire) is integrated into the bottom firewall connection (grey) pin 32

I'm more or less curious about the g-force and ABS mounting on the ABS bracket and that being level or not. I really don't want it to be wrong as I get the feeling if it's wrong I could be going down the freeway and the transmission downshifts as it thinks the truck is slowing down.

 

[410Fortune]

Yes that area should be level! Keep up the good work

 

[Giant97]

Electronics are all done except for pats. I may have to get a 2002 5.0 computer to match up the PATS 2 system since the computer in it is 98/99.
Stupid upullrparts seems to always put their vehicles in place with a forklift and almost every single driveshaft is bent. Time to pay more from a regular junkyard I guess. All that's left is finishing the exhaust (shop will do this) and then Ford to reprogram the computer.

For the G-force transducer use 3/4 wide aluminum and mount it as low as possible. I used 1 inch and the transducer is right up against the brake lines. Shouldn't matter as it's for braking purposes or heavy accelleration.

 

[410Fortune]

2001 was the last year of the 5.0, the 98-01 5.0 Used Pats "I" and "II", not "E"............... there is no 02 5.0 PCM or a 5.0 PCM that used the 02+ "PATS E"
However I have successfully wired PATS II into a PATS E truck....... or in laymans terms I wired in a 99 5.0 PCM and PATS module into a 2002 sport trac.

Very hard to find a good rear driveshaft with no dent, check private parties or check with the yard about getting a shaft before they forklift the vehicle to the U pull lot.

 

[Giant97]

2001 was the last year of the 5.0, the 98-01 5.0 Used Pats "I" and "II", not "E"............... there is no 02 5.0 PCM or a 5.0 PCM that used the 02+ "PATS E"
However I have successfully wired PATS II into a PATS E truck....... or in laymans terms I wired in a 99 5.0 PCM and PATS module into a 2002 sport trac.

Very hard to find a good rear driveshaft with no dent, check private parties or check with the yard about getting a shaft before they forklift the vehicle to the U pull lot.

Stopped at the junkyard yesterday to get the different pats pigtail since I originally thought it was going to be a plug and play.
I've got a different PATS since I do have the DB\OG that you mention here. Ford Ranger forum What should that be connected to?
What is the GEMS module? I've heard of it but again mentioned

Also mentioned putting the Yellow/White wire from the alternator to Pin 42 on the truck side. Where is the easiest place to grab this from and is it cut and attached to pin 42 or just spliced in?

You also mention PIN 38.
Pin 38
C110 - RD/WH - 463 - NSS signal from DTRS to truck (gem module, 4x4 system)
C115 - YE/WH - 357 - throttle pos input. - EMPTY on my truck, book says there is a wire, on a 5.0 there is not.
So pin 38 is the neutral safety feed on the truck side of things. If you are using a electronic shift transfer case you will NEED TO ADD THIS WIRE. Run a wire from the 5.0 DTRS to pin 38 on C115. our sport trac is AWD

Mine will be a 4x4 so what is the 5.0 DTRS and what wire color should be added to pin 38 and should it be on the computer side it looks like.

Last thing. You mention you have a shop. Have you tried to swap out a cab from a southern rustless cab and replace our northern rustville cab?

 

[410Fortune]

I've got a different PATS since I do have the DB\OG that you mention here. Ford Ranger forum What should that be connected to?

This wire dark blue with orange is the starter relay enable
It gets wired to the starter relay, which is in the power junction box (PJB) under the hood. I actually explained that in the thread.
My truck did not have the DB/OG wire so I simply grounded the relay wire at the PJB under the hood
You can do either and the truck will start. You can run your wire to the relay and use it as the trigger (ground)
Or you can just ground the wire at the relay like I did
Either way your truck will start with the ignition tumbler when completed. (key switch on column)

Where is the easiest place to grab this from and is it cut and attached to pin 42 or just spliced in?

The yellow / white wire from the 5.0 alternator goes to pin 42 on the 5.0 wiring side and is MIA on the truck side of things..
I found the needed yellow with white wire on the donor truck wiring harness, cut the harness apart, unpinned it, and removedas much of the wire as possible
I then added it to pin 42 on the truck side, so it is now connected to the 5.0 harness/alternator.

This wire will now run over to the PJB and is added to the + side of things, battery power. This is the power feed for your alternators internal voltage regulator.
The reason this is done is because a v6 sport trac has a stand alone alternator harness and this harness includes fusible links, they go directly to battery power on a 02+ trac.

The 5.0 alternator wiring is different, it is part of the engine wiring and on a 5.0 truck. Factory 5.0 truck alterator would get its power from a 15 amp mini fuse in the PJB
So you need to run power to the alternator from the battery.
I did this by actually adding a 15 amp mini fuse to the sport trac fuse box (PJB) and the yellow/ white wire gets its power from there. I also had to run power to the power side of the new mini fuse, it is detailed in the thread. This way it looks and acts like a factory 5.0 alternator harness AND I dont like fusible links.
Now when you go look see at the conversion on the Ranger forum this new info will help it sink in, why I am doing what I am doing
YOU WILL NEED SOME BOOKS if you want this to make sense
I did my first drivetrain conversion back in 96 and I am still doing them on the same truck today.....getting to know the wiring how to read the books and diagrams is vital to pulling this off/troubleshooting!!!

So pin 38 is the neutral safety feed on the truck side of things. If you are using a electronic shift transfer case you will NEED TO ADD THIS WIRE. Run a wire from the 5.0 DTRS to pin 38 on C115. our sport trac is AWD

DTRS is digital transmission range sensor. This is the sensor on the side of your auto transmission that tells the computer what gear you are in
Ford its a DTRS, Chevy its called a neutral safety switch....silly chevy guys.
The 5.0 explorers left the factory as RWD and AWD, never 4wd. So no need to run the neutral safety feed from the trans to the GEM/4x4 control module/ESOF computer
You plan to use a ESOF transfer case (elec shift on fly) so you need to tell your sport tracs 4x4 control module that you are in Neutral so it will allow the shift into LOW RANGE 4x4.
There are several ways to do this, I like to actually start at the wiring for the DTRS and see if the wire exists.....if it does then I find it on the 42 pin connector on the 5.0 harness and make sure it is connected to the same wire on pin 38, red with white, NSS to 4x4 shift
The DTRS is not the only place in the truck to tap into the NSS circuit........ just FYI
Here we just like to do things like Ford would have, so we try to make it like factory when possible

Last thing. You mention you have a shop. Have you tried to swap out a cab from a southern rustless cab and replace our northern rustville cab?

Yeah buddy! I have a customs shop here at my house I have spent the last 20 years building. These trucks are my passion and my side business, I also have a desk job. Shop is family business part time, private, I build off road stuff, mostly RBV (ranger based vehicles) but we also homestead here and we are COMPLETELY OFF GRID. Off grid, off road, live where you camp....that was the goal.

I have swapped many cabs in my days body mounts, bed swaps, cab swaps, custom bodies............yes we deal with rust! I hate rust................. I have a 2001 E350 7.3 power stroke Van Chateu edition, she's awesome with only 73K miles on here! However I am about to part her out due to rusted frame and body...........its a real shame. But good news it I plan to build a 4x4 Econoline from the guts..............the frame is rotting bad enough now to where the steering gear box is going to start to weaken and fall off........no saving this baby. She came to us from Chicago............ dang rust!!! My beloved 1988 Bronco II 5.0 is also rusting out from the inside out......this one I will probably park in a dark corner and let her sit for 20 years, maybe someday she will go on a rotisserie and get a full resto...maybe

 

[410Fortune]

GEM module is a type of body computer
back in 96-2001 the 5.0 trucks had GEM modules, they were also the ESOF or 4x4 computer on the v6 trucks.
That is why you hear me refer to the GEM module.
The 2002+ trucks do not use a Gem module, instead they have a restraints computer, airbag computer, keyless entry computer, 4x4 control module, ABS computer, speed control module....etc etc......
The 4x4 control module on the 02+ trucks I also call the "motorolla box" quite often, since it is a nice stand alone 4x4 control computer that is made by motorolla, it is found on many Fords 02-05. I can wire this box to any RBV and make it work a 1354 or 4406 electric shift t case using the stock v6 dash switch....I like these boxes very much (Also used for control trac deletes)
Eventually (2006+) these modules are now all on a can bus communications network and the instrument cluster is one of the end users....like the brain. Talk about fun to convert to 5.0!!!!!!!!!!

there's some more fat to chew on....hope some of this info helps.........take notes

 

[Giant97]

So digging around I found this 2002 Explorer PCM schematic/pin-out which has the PCM pins. I presume that if I connect into pin 10 and run up to PIN 38 for C110 I should be good for the 4x4 part of it?

 

[Giant97]

I'm working on the pats but the wire description on you ranger post doesn't appear to match up.

From the instructions

The wires are:
WH/YE = hot all times, wired into yellow wire at ignition switch
Found this one but I have several yellow wires. Does it matter which one?
R/LG = ACC power in start or run, wired into ACC power wire at ignition switch
I presume this to be a red wire but I only found a red/blue wire and a Pink/Black wire
BK/WH = ground, grounded to steering column frame near airbag ground wire
Easily found
DB/LG = theft indicator light, Wired directly to instrument cluster, the theft light wire from the truck is CUT, this way only our new 2000 PATS module is controlling the theft light
Was there a corresponding wire for this or just pull in IC off and pin there?
BK/YE = RF -, wired directly to ignition halo receiver on the 02 trac this wire is BK/WH
Not seeing a black/White line for the halo.
DG/WH = RF+, wired directly to ignition halo receiver on the 02 trac, this wire is R/LG
Not seeing a Reg/Light Green wire for the halo
GY/OG = Sig Receive, wired directly to ignition halo on the 02 trac, this wire is GY/OG
I'm seeing a Green/Orange. I presume this should be Green/Orange?
WH/LG = Sig Send, wired directly to ignition halo on the 02 trac, this wire is WH/LG
Not seing the White/Light Green wire from the Halo.
TN/OG = Data link, wired directly into the OBD2 port this wire is TN/OG
Found this one
PK/LB = Data link, wired directly into the OBD2 port, this wire is PK/LB
Found this one

What am I missing?

 

[410Fortune]

The wires are:
WH/YE = hot all times, wired into yellow wire at ignition switch
Found this one but I have several yellow wires. Does it matter which one?

Not as long as it is hot at all times

R/LG = ACC power in start or run, wired into ACC power wire at ignition switch
I presume this to be a red wire but I only found a red/blue wire and a Pink/Black wire

Make sure its a positive wire only in hot or run

BK/WH = ground, grounded to steering column frame near airbag ground wire
Easily found
DB/LG = theft indicator light, Wired directly to instrument cluster, the theft light wire from the truck is CUT, this way only our new 2000 PATS module is controlling the theft light
Was there a corresponding wire for this or just pull in IC off and pin there?

What? Your instrument cluster already has a theft light. The wire should also be DB/LG, cut the truck feed and run the feed from the new pats box only


BK/YE = RF -, wired directly to ignition halo receiver on the 02 trac this wire is BK/WH
Not seeing a black/White line for the halo.

DG/WH = RF+, wired directly to ignition halo receiver on the 02 trac, this wire is R/LG
Not seeing a Reg/Light Green wire for the halo

GY/OG = Sig Receive, wired directly to ignition halo on the 02 trac, this wire is GY/OG
I'm seeing a Green/Orange. I presume this should be Green/Orange?

WH/LG = Sig Send, wired directly to ignition halo on the 02 trac, this wire is WH/LG
Not seing the White/Light Green wire from the Halo.

The wires may change colors from the halo in the steering column on down over the different years, but the pin locations stay the same
Can you get a pic of the 4 wires coming from your ignition halo? at the connector
I can then match up the pins with our colors


TN/OG = Data link, wired directly into the OBD2 port this wire is TN/OG
Found this one
PK/LB = Data link, wired directly into the OBD2 port, this wire is PK/LB
Found this one

Making progress!!

 

[Giant97]

Making progress!!

This is the pictures from my trac.

The red, green, blue and yellow are coming from the ignition area and the other is the Yellow/Green, Green/Orange set of wires. Which ones are the correct set?