Not bearing or brakes. Front end squeak. Right turn only. | Page 6 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Not bearing or brakes. Front end squeak. Right turn only.

That's very good Roy. I hope the next time it ends well and stays good for years. I use a 1/4" ratchet and a long extension, with an 8mm deep well socket. Look over the pocket well that the CV goes into, I kind of wish that you find something there, a burr or something making it seat in there crooked.
 



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i did a search too on the bolts. Many stated low torque to be issue. I wonder if the bolts are not soft enough. I can’t remember if you stated you used factory bolts or off brand. New bolts come with thread lock from Ford. Only other thing as some said the loctite and or nothing worked. Maybe used the anti rattle gel Ford says to use on caliper bolts do they don’t back out. Maybe worth a shot. I never had an issue with distorting threads and would recommend that if nothing else works. Distorted threads make a huge difference in tight bolt applications. Fords exhaust studs are distorted to prevent backing out. With out the distortion the stud can back out causing exhaust leaks. Most bolts Ford does this with they don’t produce for older vehicles so you must make it yourself.
I have gotten bolts from Ford, from Advance Auto, from Napa, and from the junkyard. Yes the ones from Ford did come with Loctite. All back out.

I did notice last night that I have a vibration that builds with speed. Will have to chase that down. But with 450.000 miles plus on this car, it could just be wearing out
 






The six AWD driveshaft bolts are very long, they have to be threaded in a long way. I've never read on here about those backing out, this is the first I've heard of it. It takes a good long while to thread them in before they bottom out. I wonder most about dirty threads in either part, and that the parts were mated fully and centered before tightening them. I've R&R'd my front shafts easily 15 times between my four 2nd gen's.

It's tedious to put them in, it takes a while to get the ratchet moved to get on each bolt and apply some torque, and then move on to other bolts. Rushing it might end up having some not just right, or the whole thing ****ed slightly. Take it easy and do it methodically, they are not hard to do, just not fast and easy.
Explain what you mean, please

I used the parts listed here BW4404 TRANSFER CASE REBUILD KIT FITS '95-'01 5.0L EXPLORER & '98-'01 MOUNTAINEER WITH NO SPEEDO IN CASE (BK4404A) and inspected the gears and chain for wear. Just for your information I have been rebuilding differentials, manual trainsmissions and transfers cases since my dad taught me in 1972, so do know what normal wear looks like
It’s the viscous clutch itself. I would have to see the diagram. It’s between the front and the rear drive. Linked with the planetary gear. I’ll see if I can find a picture.
 






Explain what you mean, please

I used the parts listed here BW4404 TRANSFER CASE REBUILD KIT FITS '95-'01 5.0L EXPLORER & '98-'01 MOUNTAINEER WITH NO SPEEDO IN CASE (BK4404A) and inspected the gears and chain for wear. Just for your information I have been rebuilding differentials, manual trainsmissions and transfers cases since my dad taught me in 1972, so do know what normal wear looks like
1622129168414.png
 






I have gotten bolts from Ford, from Advance Auto, from Napa, and from the junkyard. Yes the ones from Ford did come with Loctite. All back out.

I did notice last night that I have a vibration that builds with speed. Will have to chase that down. But with 450.000 miles plus on this car, it could just be wearing out
Wow 450k. How many motors. Lol. Btw I’m not challenging your knowledge or experience in any way. Definitely a higher level thread. I only mentioned torque as it’s a possibly.
 






If you put in gear oil you may have messed up the clutch. The case does use a viscous clutch. Look it up. It’s also the main reason of failure. Did you change the coupler gear with rebuild. All awd cases have one. It’s what helps the front tires do the 5% less driving and not allow them to get eaten up. Most awd cases you either put in a slip additive or friction additive. Ford used the same clutch as earlier trans I suppose. This trans fluid is no friction and all detergent meaning to operate properly it needs to be clean. I’m sure even my boy brookes agrees with this. Or awd cars would crow hop everywhere they went.

And ok no additive. I can name 10 cases that do for this one that doesn’t. Most awd cases use it. Much like the posi rears because fluid along doesn’t have proper friction modifiers. Never stated to know anything about “this” case at all. We’re a few ideas to check as the approach to remedy is similar for almost and brand or platform. However there is a viscous clutch gear. Maybe address that issue as well as possible places to look. As for English. Here are some synonyms of tilt. Tell me where you think tilt means an action word? SYNONYMS. slope, list, camber, gradient, bank, slant, incline, pitch, dip, cant, bevel, angle, heel. Something can easily be fixed and have a tilt. It does have to articulate at all. It can. And can be used to describe something that CAN be moved, but must be to an angle. But to tilt it must not be flat. Thus at an angle. Making my statement of it having a tilt 100% acceptable. Smfh
You’re trying to give advice on a specific transfer case maybe you should *actually* know something about them. We aren’t talking transfer cases in general.

The fluid sheer inside the viscous COUPLING is what allows the slip between front and rear axles.

If you think something Tilting and something being mounted on an angle are saying the same thing, than you need to go back to elementary school. Words mean things. It’s why we use them.

While I may have misunderstood the point you were *attempting* to make, nothing I said was inaccurate.
 






Wow 450k. How many motors. Lol. Btw I’m not challenging your knowledge or experience in any way. Definitely a higher level thread. I only mentioned torque as it’s a possibly.
one motor, rebuilt once with 125K on it
 






Take a look at this forum School Me (and you?!) On Viscous Couplings (BW4404) He goes into detail and consistently calls it a viscous coupling, and I have also had it called a viscous clutch. you are th only one who calls it a gear. In this transfer case it is a sealed unit and I was able to turn the two connections by hand so did not replace it. I did replace all the bearings and the output shaft was worn. That thread also shows all the gears inside this transfer case
 






Take a look at this forum School Me (and you?!) On Viscous Couplings (BW4404) He goes into detail and consistently calls it a viscous coupling, and I have also had it called a viscous clutch. you are th only one who calls it a gear. In this transfer case it is a sealed unit and I was able to turn the two connections by hand so did not replace it. I did replace all the bearings and the output shaft was worn. That thread also shows all the gears inside this transfer case
That's good that your VC was okay. I have one in my black 98 that took out the front differential, and I discovered it after replacing all of the front control arms. The fluid had been black the three times I changed it in about a year. It was obviously(now) bad when I bought the truck, but hadn't locked up yet. I took out the front shaft and drove it for work another year after that. I have the new parts to rebuild the TC, when I make time to do it, after the trans.
 






I brought my V8 shaft to a local driveline shop, along with the entire CV unit (with new splines) from Dana/Spicer. $190 for the CV unit I believe. Shop cut the old one off, welded, painted, dynamically balanced for $110.

TC obviously doesn’t articulate—bolted to trans. The angle of the box is dictated by the entire engine/trans assembly.

4404 AWD has a self-contained viscous coupling. 4405 A4WD has a different type coupling that is electronically controlled, and torque delivery is determined by solenoid duty cycle, I believe.

If you have gear oil in your TC, good lord. Please change ASAP. I’d do a few closely spaced changes to flush that heavy oil out.
 






I brought my V8 shaft to a local driveline shop, along with the entire CV unit (with new splines) from Dana/Spicer. $190 for the CV unit I believe. Shop cut the old one off, welded, painted, dynamically balanced for $110.

TC obviously doesn’t articulate—bolted to trans. The angle of the box is dictated by the entire engine/trans assembly.

4404 AWD has a self-contained viscous coupling. 4405 A4WD has a different type coupling that is electronically controlled, and torque delivery is determined by solenoid duty cycle, I believe.

If you have gear oil in your TC, good lord. Please change ASAP. I’d do a few closely spaced changes to flush that heavy oil out.
I only had luck doing the same and having my shaft rebuilt. The slip on CV’s and remanufactured units (over 300) failed in months.
 






Here's a source for the Dana Spicer 302 front shaft; 1997-2005 FORD EXPLORER, RANGER, MERCURY MOUNTAINEER V8 FRONT PROP DRIVESHAFT ASSEMBLY - 23" - SKU# F77A-4A376-CB - Fort Wayne Clutch & Driveline

That one is $339, and the V6 version(1.25" longer) they want $289 for. I hunted for the CV joint alone and found the Dana Spicer at Summit for $225, which has to be welded onto a shaft. That seems like an equal or better part to the Ford shaft. I didn't find the shaft anywhere else quickly, I just wanted to see if they made a complete new unit.

The part number they refer to it is F77A-4A376-CB, and the D.S. part number is 032DS85002-2228
 






I only had luck doing the same and having my shaft rebuilt. The slip on CV’s and remanufactured units (over 300) failed in months.
My driveshaft is solid up to the CV joint at the transfer case which moves in and out about 2.5 ". Being solid it has to compress to go into the fit and both the differential and transfer don't move. This picture is not the same as what I have installed but it shows the shaft the best.

1622141258028.png
 






You’re trying to give advice on a specific transfer case maybe you should *actually* know something about them. We aren’t talking transfer cases in general.

The fluid sheer inside the viscous COUPLING is what allows the slip between front and rear axles.

If you think something Tilting and something being mounted on an angle are saying the same thing, than you need to go back to elementary school. Words mean things. It’s why we use them.

While I may have misunderstood the point you were *attempting* to make, nothing I said was inaccurate.
No I stated I wasn’t sure. Just an idea. You are a joke. Now a sad joke arguing that, tilt, which I’ve already proven is correct, is incorrect. You really have a problem. I hope you have supportive people who actually put up with this. If not I’m sure u are a sad lonely “man”.... also reread all the stuff I pointed out you said wrong and you should see it. Many things like the angle of axles never changing ever. That the front angle of cv isn’t a u joint not bc angle but smoothness (correct smoothness, because of angle bud).... I have not tried I have succeeded in all I have said. You can take your inability to read and now even agree with yourself and go find someone to listen to all your incorrect information. I’m glad you can google. Have fun. Happy trails. Stop talking.
 












Take a look at this forum School Me (and you?!) On Viscous Couplings (BW4404) He goes into detail and consistently calls it a viscous coupling, and I have also had it called a viscous clutch. you are th only one who calls it a gear. In this transfer case it is a sealed unit and I was able to turn the two connections by hand so did not replace it. I did replace all the bearings and the output shaft was worn. That thread also shows all the gears inside this transfer case
I saw that. When they talk later about the Parking any front drive they refer to it as gear viscous coupling. But yes. Best test is hot day in parking lot. Full lock. Should idle in circles with no noises.
 






No I stated I wasn’t sure. Just an idea. You are a joke. Now a sad joke arguing that, tilt, which I’ve already proven is correct, is incorrect. You really have a problem. I hope you have supportive people who actually put up with this. If not I’m sure u are a sad lonely “man”.... also reread all the stuff I pointed out you said wrong and you should see it. Many things like the angle of axles never changing ever. That the front angle of cv isn’t a u joint not bc angle but smoothness (correct smoothness, because of angle bud).... I have not tried I have succeeded in all I have said. You can take your inability to read and now even agree with yourself and go find someone to listen to all your incorrect information. I’m glad you can google. Have fun. Happy trails. Stop talking.
Yeah, you don’t tell me what to do. I’ll post as much and whatever I like.

YOU are the one spewing nonsense about **** you don’t know.

Your use of saying it was tilts was garbage writing.

“The transfer case doesn’t tilt” and your response was that it DID. Period. I didn’t say “the transfer case is mounted on a tilt. YOU are the one with the problem with language, among other things.

Post nonsense here I will correct it every time. Don’t like it? Good.
 






That awesome man. How does it preform with that many miles. Little bit of blow by???
Like new . I broke it in gently for the first 1,000 miles the treated like normal - Yes I bounce it around off-road and think it is a race car. I take it places that some jeeps cannot do - they sit in the mud with one front tire turning an one rear tire turning, and I surprise these rice burners regulalry. Head was shaved 0.10 and I have .15 over pistons so the 302 acts like a 350. Uses like 8 ounces of oil every 10,000 mile oil change. But to get back on subject....
 






Can we please just stop. This is ruining an otherwise good thread.
 



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I saw that. When they talk later about the Parking any front drive they refer to it as gear viscous coupling. But yes. Best test is hot day in parking lot. Full lock. Should idle in circles with no noises.
It does now. Only issue is the bolts backing out.
 






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