Not Ford; Isuzu, Hard to start when engine up to temp.

[Sonny]

I wanted to throw this out to the board because there are many more people here. I am out of ideas.

1998 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2 V6 4WD 60k

Truck can set for overnight or 5 days and when I first go to start it it will start on 1st try.

After 1st Start of day.

Driving awhile stop and turn engine off, go get lunch or something 20-40 minutes, try to start, it will crank over and not start, try again after turning over several times it will start.

Idles good, runs good, no loss of power etc after started. I have changed the Fuel filter, FPR, Plugs, IAC and the TPS. I changed the Fuel pump relay also.

Any ideas on whats up? I know its an Isuzu, thats why I let my wife drive it, she loves it.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Sonny, are you saying you can switch the starter on and off, up to 3,4,5 times before it'll start? Or do you switch the starter on one time and the engine turns over several times before it starts?

I suspect it's the ignition control module going bad. It's OBD II, so if you can get a code retrieved we can diagnose it better. Most auto parts stores will retrieve them for free.

 

[dogfriend]

I had similar symptoms with my 89 Ranger. Started fine when cold, but after short drive (engine warm) it sometimes refused to start. Once I had to get it towed, but once I had my tools ready at home to diagnose the problem, it would start fine.

Finally it wouldn't start at all, and I was able to find the problem: bad ignition coil. The resistance was way too high.

I also would suspect the ignition module as well. If it is related to heat, sometimes you may be able to induce the problem by using a hair dryer or heat gun to make the suspected part fail.

 

[Sonny]

Originally posted by Runnin'OnEmpty
Sonny, are you saying you can switch the starter on and off, up to 3,4,5 times before it'll start? Or do you switch the starter on one time and the engine turns over several times before it starts?

I switch the starter on one time and the engine turns over several times befrore it starts.

Originally posted by Runnin'OnEmpty
I suspect it's the ignition control module going bad. It's OBD II, so if you can get a code retrieved we can diagnose it better. Most auto parts stores will retrieve them for free.

I do not have a CEL, it is OBD II, do you think there could be codes that could be pulled even with no CEL???

Thanks for the help.

 

[Sonny]

Originally posted by dogfriend
Finally it wouldn't start at all, and I was able to find the problem: bad ignition coil. The resistance was way too high.

I also would suspect the ignition module as well. If it is related to heat, sometimes you may be able to induce the problem by using a hair dryer or heat gun to make the suspected part fail.

I am still learning about this Isuzu, FYI on the 3.2 there are 6 coils 1 for each cylinder, it is a 2 inch by 2 inch pack that sits right on top the spark plug boot.. I am not sure but if 1 or 2 coils were bad I would think I would get a rough idle and other driveability problems, but not a no start, I am not sure???

I am wondering about the ignition module as both of the posts I got referred to it. I am not even sure where this is located.

There is no Chilton/Haynes for the 98 so troubleshooting is pretty hard.

Another thing I noticed, During the day, 100 degree is when the trouble is worse. When it cools off a little it starts much better.

Thanks for your help also.

 

[dogfriend]

The fact that it gets worse with higher temperatures is consistent with a mechanical problem in one of the electronic components (like the ignition module). When the engine is cold, the circuit makes contact, but as everything heats up and expands with temperature one of the contacts is separating or moving. This is why I suggest using a hair dryer on the ignition module or other component that you suspect - you may be able to cause the problem and then you would know which component is causing the problem.

 

[OZexplore]

sonny


i used to own a 4x4 isuzu 3.2l in the u.s.a ithink they are called a trooper (jackaroo in oz) mine also did this from the time i bought it 50k till when i sold it 265k & yes it was a pain in the butt i never found the problem just ended up living with it i think it was fuel evaporation

imho i think it is a better car than the x not performance or fuel economy wise just better built the only failure was the hydraulic cam tensioner (no damage)
so i suggest just live with it