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OBX Headers

MDmounty

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 28, 2014
Messages
120
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6
City, State
Preston, MD
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Mounty V8
I got my OBX headers the other day and took some pictures. I tried installing them today and literally everything that could go wrong did. Stripped bolts, my sockets that are made to grab stripped bolts stripped the heads even more. Needless to say, I'm going to take it to a shop and have them do it. Here's what I have now, if you guys want more pictures of something specific, let me know and I'll get them before I have them thrown on.

KIMG0014.jpg

They look like Torque Monsters, but this set comes with an EGR tube so that is nice, you don't have to bend the one you have. It also comes with gaskets, but no bolts to bolt them onto the engine with.

KIMG0015.jpg


EDIT: more pictures of welds etc.

KIMG0016.jpg

Close up picture of the welds, welds look the same on both sides I did not see any problems with them

KIMG0017.jpg

Picture of the part that goes onto the head, definitely has more room than the stock, I can fit my finger in these, not in the stock at all really. Makes me feel like they'll be good

KIMG0018.jpg

Each individual head tube comes in right here, instead of the stamped stock one which has two openings going to the collector

Those are all the pictures I have, the shop just finished putting them in today. They needed one inch bolts to connect it to the head. They said the EGR tube was not the right size at all, it was too long and not even bent the right way. I had to shell out an extra 80$ for a new EGR tube. They said it was a PITA, but they're finally in after about a week. I tried for a week myself and could not get it and I followed MountaineerGreen's guide and VABoatBuilder's guide, both were very helpful but things just did not go my way as just about every bolt was seized and it was beyond my ability to remove them myself. I'll get pictures of them installed and see how they are

Sorry if the pictures are big, I don't know how to edit them to make them smaller
 



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They do look nice, let's hope they go on as nice as they look. :thumbsup:
 












awesome!!!!
that sucks that they didnt come with the bolts to put them on the engine
 






get remflex gaskets (part number 3003). they seem to be working the best, and buy some arp header bolts part number 400-1110.
 






I got mine in on Friday, other than covered bolt holes. They look good, welds are nice. Hopefully the install will be complete soon, did I mention they are an absolute pain in the rear. Two holes are covered, so you cannot use a regular header bolt. We have made "custom" studs, hopefully I will regain the feeling in my finger tips in a few days. They looked real good in the picture :)
 






How much did you get charged for the install?
 






I just now seen these headers yesterday. How long they been out because it's pretty awesome us 5.0 guys have another option finally on headers.
 






I got mine in on Friday, other than covered bolt holes. They look good, welds are nice. Hopefully the install will be complete soon, did I mention they are an absolute pain in the rear. Two holes are covered, so you cannot use a regular header bolt. We have made "custom" studs, hopefully I will regain the feeling in my finger tips in a few days. They looked real good in the picture :)

What do you mean you had to make custom studs? Photos? So these headers are not just plug-and-play I take it
 






They were a major pain in the rear, on passenger side. Fourth hole from rear (or left) we cut a 1"stud and put a nut on it. Had to thread it in by hand first before any other bolts or studs were put in. Tried some 1" ARP's to no avail, took a couple of hours and a 36" pry bar but they are now installed. What did not help, was no instructions or advise on what bolts to use. The end result, have patience and limber fingers. We remove the steering shaft on drivers side and had plenty of room to remove old manifold and install header. In my truck, there isn't much room between header and brake booster. I will have to address that, or will probably mess up the booster from the heat.
 






They were a major pain in the rear, on passenger side. Fourth hole from rear (or left) we cut a 1"stud and put a nut on it. Had to thread it in by hand first before any other bolts or studs were put in. Tried some 1" ARP's to no avail, took a couple of hours and a 36" pry bar but they are now installed. What did not help, was no instructions or advise on what bolts to use. The end result, have patience and limber fingers. We remove the steering shaft on drivers side and had plenty of room to remove old manifold and install header. In my truck, there isn't much room between header and brake booster. I will have to address that, or will probably mess up the booster from the heat.

Anyone know if the TMs had this issue that tneff is describing?
 






Anyone know if the TMs had this issue that tneff is describing?

I had a couple very tight spots on the passenger side getting bolts in but booster clearance seems adequate with a few early set of TMs
 






I've got more pictures I just haven't had time to upload them they've been working us like slaves at work but the shop says they fit in but they had to get one inch long bolts from across the state to put them in I should have it back sometime this week and I'll get done pictures and let you know what it's all about
 






How much did you get charged for the install?

They told me it would be around 450 but we'll see when I go to pick it up
 






Added some pictures to original post
 






Added some pictures to original post

Any update? Curious about sound, power increase etc. Looks like a good option, or really only option since the TQM headers seem almost impossible to order or have a ridiculously long wait. I've got the tick from my manifolds so going to have to replace at some point anyway.
 






Any update? Curious about sound, power increase etc. Looks like a good option, or really only option since the TQM headers seem almost impossible to order or have a ridiculously long wait. I've got the tick from my manifolds so going to have to replace at some point anyway.

The sound is noticeably deeper then before and I'm noticing a couple extra miles from them since they've been put on. The rpm I noticed has dropped before when I was going 65 I was at about 2500 rpm but with the headers I'm at about 2000-2100. The only real problem I'm having is one tube on the passenger side (the one with the egr tube) is rubbing on the shock mount so I'm going to have to get that taken care of before something bad happens. Other than that I have a constant check engine light but the code is always for poor egr recirculation but I don't care about that enough to look into it
 






The sound is noticeably deeper then before and I'm noticing a couple extra miles from them since they've been put on. The rpm I noticed has dropped before when I was going 65 I was at about 2500 rpm but with the headers I'm at about 2000-2100. The only real problem I'm having is one tube on the passenger side (the one with the egr tube) is rubbing on the shock mount so I'm going to have to get that taken care of before something bad happens. Other than that I have a constant check engine light but the code is always for poor egr recirculation but I don't care about that enough to look into it

Is the rubbing due to a design defect in the header? Something wrong with the EGR Tube as well?
 






The rpm I noticed has dropped before when I was going 65 I was at about 2500 rpm but with the headers I'm at about 2000-2100.

More info please!

Your numbers don't make sense to me, more HP (assumed with the headers) doesn't change gearing.

My '99 Mounty is stock with a 5.0, 3.73 differentials and 255/70-16 tires. I'm just under 2000 RPM at 65 MPH.

Maybe there was something wrong with your transmission and you never shifted into top gear or your torque converter wasn't locking up properly. During the install someone banged on your transmission and broke something loose allowing it to work correctly?

Congrats on the installation.
 



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The sound is noticeably deeper then before and I'm noticing a couple extra miles from them since they've been put on. The rpm I noticed has dropped before when I was going 65 I was at about 2500 rpm but with the headers I'm at about 2000-2100. The only real problem I'm having is one tube on the passenger side (the one with the egr tube) is rubbing on the shock mount so I'm going to have to get that taken care of before something bad happens. Other than that I have a constant check engine light but the code is always for poor egr recirculation but I don't care about that enough to look into it
So no custom tune, just stock pcm and it runs fine? Weird about the numbers, that would have no effect, sounds like trans issues or sensor isn't reading right. Headers wouldn't change that, gearing controls the rpm readings.

Curious about the EGR issue though, cause of header defect? Didn't people with TQM headers adjust or adapt the EGR? Can't remember.....
 






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