Odd Brake Rotor / System Problems

[Rcflyer330]

Let me start out with the fine details calipers are original and are not stuck or binding in any way. suspension is original with no leaks and I keep my tires torqued to the 100 ft lbs spec. I do switch from summer to winter rims as the seasons change. I try to not be hard on the brakes trying not to drag them but I don't slam on the brakes every time either. I also don't tow anything regularly maybe 3 times a year being 100 miles total towing distance. If i had to guess the max weight is 1200 lbs. I did changed the slide pins and rubber pieces on all the calipers a couple of times and the fluid when I did the brakes the first time. The rotors I have on now are ebc plain surface and pfc carbon metallic pads. When I do the brakes I do clean and lube everything and make sure it parts move freely chance hardware and check the hub for any rust jacking spots.

Here is my problem after two years, almost to the day, after a brake job (rotors and pads) the rotors are warped or warn unevenly causing a pulsating pedal and shaking steering wheel. In those two years I put about 20k miles on the car the pads are perfect with no uneven wear and more than 50% life left in them. This has happened every two years since 2013. basically every year I either have to replace the front or the rear rotors.

What I have noticed is the outer pad rotor surface is smooth on all 4 wheels looks great. The inner pad surface is not clean like the outer there is pad contact all the way across not deep groves but the surface is dull and rough kinda like the moon's surface. I did say earlier that pad thickness is even with no uneven wear or taper but the inner surface is not the way it should be. The inner pad contact surface looks just like the outer. The caliper pistons seem to move freely. the only thing I have found is the bottom slide pin on the front is slightly tighter than the top pin but it still slides easily with no binding.. I also checked the caliper for rust jacking found none and the pads moved freely in their slots.

Now this problem is getting even worse my front rotors are two years old and pulsating and the rears are 1 year old (with less than 15k miles) and pulsating. Every spring and fall when I chance my tires and rims over I visually inspect the brake system and this past fall everything was perfect now it's not. The brand of rotor and pad combo doesn't seem to make a difference. I have tried thermoquiets on brake performance slotted an dimpled rotors that combo didn't last but that could have been my fault. pfc brakes on the same brand but new rotors same problem and pfc pads on ebc rotors came problem. and this will be my third or fourth maybe even fifth (i have lost count) full set of rotors and pads.

My only idea now its that its something in the calipers and any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to just replace pads and rotors just to replace them two years from now with the exact same problem. I also don't want to replace parts that are good for no reason when I could put the money into something that actually needs it.

Sorry for the really long post and Thank you in advance.

 

[94Eddie]

I think the next time you replace the rotors then put on new calipers too. You don't have anything left to explain the frequent warping, IMO. One thing I have done for many years, and is probably an OCD problem, is to allow the vehicle to roll forward about a half rotation of the tires shortly after a stop. Especially after a hard stop or a high speed stop. The reason is to not let hot pads remain on the same spot the entire time I am stopped at a traffic light. My reasoning is this keeps one spot on the rotors from being subjected to high temperatures from the pads which might cause warping over time or a weakening of metal in a given area of the rotor. I have not had issues with rotors warping, and while I am not saying this is the reason, it might be helping in some manner. Also, I have thought the brakes on Explorers have always been undersized considering their gross vehicle weights.

 

[Rcflyer330]

I think the next time you replace the rotors then put on new calipers too. You don't have anything left to explain the frequent warping, IMO. One thing I have done for many years, and is probably an OCD problem, is to allow the vehicle to roll forward about a half rotation of the tires shortly after a stop. Especially after a hard stop or a high speed stop. The reason is to not let hot pads remain on the same spot the entire time I am stopped at a traffic light. My reasoning is this keeps one spot on the rotors from being subjected to high temperatures from the pads which might cause warping over time or a weakening of metal in a given area of the rotor. I have not had issues with rotors warping, and while I am not saying this is the reason, it might be helping in some manner. Also, I have thought the brakes on Explorers have always been undersized considering their gross vehicle weights.

Yeah I agree the brakes are undersized. I have never really liked the feel of the brakes but they did grip better with the dimpled and slotted rotors I had.
While I really dont want to spend the money for replacement calipers thats the only thing that hasn't been changed yet.

A little back story when this happened the second time I thought it was the dimpled and slotted rotors. Reason being is when I chainged them the inside slots and dimples where filled with brake dust and rust causing the pad not to contact the rotor and over time it caused some really wide groves of no pad contact. I figured because of this the inner pad was over heating the rotor causing the pulse. I went back to plain rotors hoping it was just the dimpled and slotted rotors and poor dimple placement causing problems but aparently not.

Oh and maybe some more helpfull info they seem to start pulsing during the winter months.

 

[Rcflyer330]

Well its been 2 years almost to the day and I had to replace the front rotors due to the vibrations. So two years ago I put on ebc rotors and greenstuff brake pads along with replacing all the calipers. I can say the warped rotors was caused by the bottom slide pin on both front calipers they where seized. The pad wear was pretty even between pads on the same rotor but the drivers side pads where warn more the the right side and the pad material left was only a few millimeters thick so they where done. The rotors both inner and outer sides where smooth with full pad contact and no deep ridges unlike all the other time I have done the brakes.

This was a great pad and rotor combo. This time I went with akebono pads and Napa premium coated rotors. I don't think I will be wearing out this set of rotors because I don't know how long I will have this vehicle its getting up there in miles. Surprisingly the only bad rust is the rocker panels on the drivers side but its not bad for 12 hard winters in Michigan.

 

[Trainmaster]

Sounds to me like typical Chinese rotors and pads. When you get fed up with all the drilled and slotted hoopla and warping nonsense try a set of Motorcraft rotors and pads. I get about five years/40,000 miles out of them with never a problem. Everything else I've tried warped.

 

[Rcflyer330]

Sounds to me like typical Chinese rotors and pads. When you get fed up with all the drilled and slotted hoopla and warping nonsense try a set of Motorcraft rotors and pads. I get about five years/40,000 miles out of them with never a problem. Everything else I've tried warped.

The first couple sets where probally Chinese made. The rest of the rotors and pads to my knowledge where made in the uk or usa.

If by chance I wear out this current set I may go back to motorcraft but it is unlikely. I just wanted to post an update to anybody that may come across the thread in the future with what have found because its really anoying when I come across a thread that has no solution and no updates.

 

[Bazz270]

Sounds to me like typical Chinese rotors and pads. When you get fed up with all the drilled and slotted hoopla and warping nonsense try a set of Motorcraft rotors and pads. I get about five years/40,000 miles out of them with never a problem. Everything else I've tried warped.

Motorcraft pads and rotors (when installed together ) are the best.

The pads and the rotors should be the same brand for better perfomance and longer pad/rotor life ( See Brambo's brake materials compability study)

 

[2010 Eddie Bauer]

Go to rockauto and get the best pads, Akebono ASP line, and good rotors (ex. Brembo) and never look back.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Go to rockauto and get the best pads, Akebono ASP line, and good rotors (ex. Brembo) and never look back.

ive liekd the motorcraft superduty pads, do they make those for 2nd gen? ive never noticed much of a difference between the different pads, as long as they are int he same category (eg ceramic, natural, semimetal)