Odd Parking Light Issue

[Whey Cooler]

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Be more than happy to post up tomorrow! At work until 2300 today.

I managed to get a new copy of the 2018 wiring schematics for super cheap which made it easier. Basically, I cut the low power lead into the socket and T-ed off of the positive of the side marker LED. The low power filament now operates the way it should.

I'll post up which wires and try to get some pics, I did seal it up in loom and such like the factory but that's problem and will be easy to redo!

Okay... so here's what I did... ALWAYS test your wires and circuits! The colors and schematics for yours may be different but should be the same/similar!!!

The first pic on the left side is the back of the parking light/turn signal. The middle black wire is the one for low power (+) to the bulbs. I cut this. I stripped back a bit on the end so you can see the wire is black and disconnected. This gets cut on both sides of the car's parking lights. I heat-shrunk the splice to keep the elements out.

The next pic is the harness plug to your headlight bucket. It is located just below your turn signal socket/bulb. You can see the opening above the empty plug. On that plug, you will have a yellow wire with a brown trace on PIN 9 that runs the side marker LED's. You can "T" tap off that...and connect it to the black/middle low power wires on your turn signals. I loomed to the other side off one tap due to the LED's low amp pull. This lead will allow your low power front parking lights to follow your side marker LED's operation. Make sure with a meter that yours is also the same wire.

The last pic is it all back together. I did leave the sealing of the T-tap off so you can see it in context..but I would at least tape that up if I were you.

I'm not a good teacher so let me know if something makes no sense here!

 

[Whey Cooler]

Appreciate it!

Posted under my original post.

 

[Janding]

Okay... so here's what I did... ALWAYS test your wires and circuits! The colors and schematics for yours may be different but should be the same/similar!!!

The first pic on the left side is the back of the parking light/turn signal. The middle black wire is the one for low power (+) to the bulbs. I cut this. I stripped back a bit on the end so you can see the wire is black and disconnected. This gets cut on both sides of the car's parking lights. I heat-shrunk the splice to keep the elements out.

The next pic is the harness plug to your headlight bucket. It is located just below your turn signal socket/bulb. You can see the opening above the empty plug. On that plug, you will have a yellow wire with a brown trace on PIN 9 that runs the side marker LED's. You can "T" tap off that...and connect it to the black/middle low power wires on your turn signals. I loomed to the other side off one tap due to the LED's low amp pull. This lead will allow your low power front parking lights to follow your side marker LED's operation. Make sure with a meter that yours is also the same wire.

The last pic is it all back together. I did leave the sealing of the T-tap off so you can see it in context..but I would at least tape that up if I were you.

I'm not a good teacher so let me know if something makes no sense here!

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Thanks man this is a great! The photos are very helpful. Now I just need to find the time to do it...

Just to confirm, if you tap into side marker the turn signal will only stay lit if the side marker is on? Is there a way to tap into the signature lights so it's on with those?

 

[Whey Cooler]

Thanks man this is a great! The photos are very helpful. Now I just need to find the time to do it...

Just to confirm, if you tap into side marker the turn signal will only stay lit if the side marker is on? Is there a way to tap into the signature lights so it's on with those?

Yes. In order to do that you would need to take off the front end/bumper and get into the controller for the LED's/entire headlight. It would also make the front parking lights be on all the time though. Additionally, the signature lights change brightness levels, though almost imperceptible, when the headlights are on. Inside there you could tap off the signature light wire. The harness is a "grip lock" style that if you pull the lock you can remove pins/wires. It's TAN and I do not remember which PIN...

I went with the side marker because I wanted to have the front parking lights follow the rest of the parking lights.

Oh, and normally I would suggest a relay, but since they are low power LED's I am using I didn't bother. If you are going to keep the factory incandescent/halogen bulbs in the front turn/parking lights I would definitely suggest using a relay. I assume you know how to wire one up?

Interesting side note on the signature lights, I disconnected mine and it will trigger a code but it is a non-MIL code. This means they are controlled by the BCM and SHOULD be able to be reprogrammed to turn off...but nobody has been able to figure it out.

 

[MM07]

@Whey Cooler have you tried to have the blinkers on the mirrors on as well with the parking lamps?

 

[Janding]

Yes. In order to do that you would need to take off the front end/bumper and get into the controller for the LED's/entire headlight. It would also make the front parking lights be on all the time though. Additionally, the signature lights change brightness levels, though almost imperceptible, when the headlights are on. Inside there you could tap off the signature light wire. The harness is a "grip lock" style that if you pull the lock you can remove pins/wires. It's TAN and I do not remember which PIN...

I went with the side marker because I wanted to have the front parking lights follow the rest of the parking lights.

Oh, and normally I would suggest a relay, but since they are low power LED's I am using I didn't bother. If you are going to keep the factory incandescent/halogen bulbs in the front turn/parking lights I would definitely suggest using a relay. I assume you know how to wire one up?

Interesting side note on the signature lights, I disconnected mine and it will trigger a code but it is a non-MIL code. This means they are controlled by the BCM and SHOULD be able to be reprogrammed to turn off...but nobody has been able to figure it out.

Thanks sir - I have LED in the front too for turn signal so should be good.

Out of curiosity since you're knowledgeable about these circuits, any idea why the 726-29-02 Forscan change only causes the turn signal to stay lit and not flash? Wondering what's actually happening in that circuit with that change.

 

[Whey Cooler]

@Whey Cooler have you tried to have the blinkers on the mirrors on as well with the parking lamps?

I don't have those...so no.

What are you trying to do? Have them be "dual-stage" like your front parking light/blinkers?

 

[Whey Cooler]

Thanks sir - I have LED in the front too for turn signal so should be good.

Out of curiosity since you're knowledgeable about these circuits, any idea why the 726-29-02 Forscan change only causes the turn signal to stay lit and not flash? Wondering what's actually happening in that circuit with that change.

I do not know... I fiddled around with the light settings for months also. I'm guessing there is another command line in the BCM that needs to be addressed...but I couldn't find it either.

 

[Janding]

Okay... so here's what I did... ALWAYS test your wires and circuits! The colors and schematics for yours may be different but should be the same/similar!!!

The first pic on the left side is the back of the parking light/turn signal. The middle black wire is the one for low power (+) to the bulbs. I cut this. I stripped back a bit on the end so you can see the wire is black and disconnected. This gets cut on both sides of the car's parking lights. I heat-shrunk the splice to keep the elements out.

The next pic is the harness plug to your headlight bucket. It is located just below your turn signal socket/bulb. You can see the opening above the empty plug. On that plug, you will have a yellow wire with a brown trace on PIN 9 that runs the side marker LED's. You can "T" tap off that...and connect it to the black/middle low power wires on your turn signals. I loomed to the other side off one tap due to the LED's low amp pull. This lead will allow your low power front parking lights to follow your side marker LED's operation. Make sure with a meter that yours is also the same wire.

The last pic is it all back together. I did leave the sealing of the T-tap off so you can see it in context..but I would at least tape that up if I were you.

I'm not a good teacher so let me know if something makes no sense here!

View attachment 326471

View attachment 326472

View attachment 326473

View attachment 326475

Edit: I'm an idiot - ignore my comment - I figured it out.

By the way, highly recommend posi-taps. Very clean install and easy for hard to reach areas!

 

[Janding]

Yes. In order to do that you would need to take off the front end/bumper and get into the controller for the LED's/entire headlight. It would also make the front parking lights be on all the time though. Additionally, the signature lights change brightness levels, though almost imperceptible, when the headlights are on. Inside there you could tap off the signature light wire. The harness is a "grip lock" style that if you pull the lock you can remove pins/wires. It's TAN and I do not remember which PIN...

I went with the side marker because I wanted to have the front parking lights follow the rest of the parking lights.

Oh, and normally I would suggest a relay, but since they are low power LED's I am using I didn't bother. If you are going to keep the factory incandescent/halogen bulbs in the front turn/parking lights I would definitely suggest using a relay. I assume you know how to wire one up?

Interesting side note on the signature lights, I disconnected mine and it will trigger a code but it is a non-MIL code. This means they are controlled by the BCM and SHOULD be able to be reprogrammed to turn off...but nobody has been able to figure it out.

Re-reading this over, curious if you think a relay is actually necessary with the stock halogen bulb? If my math is correct, the low power filament for the bulb is 8W, which should draw only 0.7 amps. Thoughts?

 

[Whey Cooler]

Re-reading this over, curious if you think a relay is actually necessary with the stock halogen bulb? If my math is correct, the low power filament for the bulb is 8W, which should draw only 0.7 amps. Thoughts?

Better safe, than sorry...

 

[Whey Cooler]

Edit: I'm an idiot - ignore my comment - I figured it out.

By the way, highly recommend posi-taps. Very clean install and easy for hard to reach areas!

Yes. I changed them out to those. Didn't have them on hand when I got the inspiration to do this.

 

[DerekExSport]

Yes, I could get it to do this also... It's a very odd thing and apparently, the 19's have regular parking lamps...as do the 16's and 17's...but the 18's do not...

A friend of mine has a 17 and I have an 18 and neither have a park lamp in front. Both are wired and have dual filament bulbs.

 

[peterk9]

A friend of mine has a 17 and I have an 18 and neither have a park lamp in front. Both are wired and have dual filament bulbs.

Welcome to the Forum Derek.
In reading the first few posts of this thread, it appears that the Signature lights are the parking lights.

Peter