Oil change on an sloped driveway?

[239]

Hi everyone. I really need to change my oil and I'm wondering if it's possible and alright to change it on a driveway that's sloped. It's less than 10 degrees so it's not too steep. Has anyone done this? The oil drain bolt is on the rear of the oil pan so it seems ok as long as I park it facing up the slope, but I don't want excess oil getting trapped in the engine. I fit under the truck so I wouldn't have to jack it up. I have the 4.0 ohv. Thanks for any help.

 

[swshawaii]

Good way to do it actually. Make sure to chock the wheels and add 5 quarts of 5W-30 with filter change before starting the engine.

Recheck the level after engine cools down on level ground. Transmission fluid MUST be checked at operating temp on level ground.

 

[XLTrunner]

I have known no other way than to raise the front end (replicating a similar grade) when changing oil on my vehicles. In fact, I've got a small uphill grade driveway and still run my vehicles up on 2"x8" blocks so I can get under them. Been doing this for the past 29 yrs and routinely get 200K+ miles on my vehicles without engine damage. Besides, I'd guess the amount of oil that remains within the block at slight incline is inconsequential. Install a new filter at every change and don't worry about it.

 

[239]

Sounds good, thanks for the replies. I've always changed the oil myself since I've had the truck, but I always had to drive somewhere since my driveway is sloped. Good to know that I can just do it at home. Thanks again.

 

[koda2000]

Your procedure is probably as good as it gets. There's always a little old oil that you wont get out.

One suggestion I have is to fill the new oil filter with fresh oil before installing it. I always do this, as it eliminates that first few seconds of dry-start when the engine is fired. This is especially important on the SOHC engine. Alternately you can crank your engine with your foot to the floor on the accelerator (which turns off the fuel injectors) until the oil pressure needle pops up, then lift your foot and the engine will start. Doing this will allow the engine's oil pump to fill the filter and the hydraulic chain tensioners.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I wouldn't worry about changing it on an incline since I use a set of ramps and that in theory does the same thing, just have a decently sized catch pan.

 

[koda2000]

As I recently found out (by removing my SOHC's lower oil pan) changing your oil on ramps leaves a fair amount out oil in the back of the oil pan. I'd estimate maybe 6 ounces. I'm not really worried about it, but I wouldn't have thought it as that much. In the future I may just run the driver's front wheel up on a 2x4 and drain it on my level driveway to get the max amount of old oil out.

BTW: I hate changing the oil on my SOHC's. it's nearly impossible to not make a mess because the drain oil and old filter oil hit the frame and drip everywhere. I use a piece of aluminum foil to try to keep the oil off my frame and torsion bar and to direct as much as possible into my drain pan.

 

[swshawaii]

I prefer to change oil warm because it flows better. Placement of the catch pan and where the initial "stream" of oil will end up is the challenge.
Good idea with the foil when loosening the filter, I'm used to warm oil running down my arm every time I've done it. I use plenty of old rags. LOL

BTW, I have found no better filter wrench for the FL-820S. 1" SIX point socket with extension works great.
Amazon.com: Hopkins 10606 FloTool Super Graphite Filter Wrench, Size #6: Automotive

 

[koda2000]

I prefer to change oil warm because it flows better. Placement of the catch pan and where the initial "stream" of oil will end up is the challenge.
Good idea with the foil when loosening the filter, I'm used to warm oil running down my arm every time I've done it. I use plenty of old rags. LOL

BTW, I have found no better filter wrench for the FL-820S. 1" SIX point socket with extension works great.
Amazon.com: Hopkins 10606 FloTool Super Graphite Filter Wrench, Size #6: Automotive

Warm oil is also better because it suspends much of the dirt/debris that otherwise settles to the bottom of the pan. It's amazing how much dirt will settle out of the oil over time. I find that on my classic cars (which sit for months over the winter) the oil may look perfectly clean in the spring, unless I drive them around the block. Of course these vehicles only get maybe a 1000-2000 thousand miles on them between changes, so the oil doesn't get that dirty.

I use a metal Ford filter cup (very similar to the Hopkins tool) I got at AutoZone. It works great on the FL820s filters.

To control the oil "stream" better I've considered installing one of those drain plugs with the valve on them. I had one on my daughter's PT Snoozer and I found it allowed the oil to drain slower. Of course that wouldn't help the oil filter drip though. I find that placing my drain pan on top of a cement block (to getting it closer to the stream) helps.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

The worst thing I've ever found to change the oil in is a Ford 6.8 V10, those are a pain, I generally changed the oil in those warm because the weather seemingly showed a lot in how it flowed. The easiest thing I've changed it in has to be the 5.0 Explorers, that was about idiot proof, didn't like the oil filter mount much though. I run 3K intervals of Castrol 5w30 (10w30 in the 5.0) so I don't worry too much about the remaining oil. As for the settling in the oil, the 302 I have in my wreck has been sitting and the oil inside it looks new on the dipstick now, doesn't show the fact it had over 3K miles on it.

 

[swshawaii]

Koda, I considered installing a Fumoto drain valve on the ST until I saw the $30 price and actually tried one on my friends F-150. Glad I didn't buy one, that thing drains S-L-O-W. Surprised you would allow a PT Cruiser anywhere near your property, only worse modern American vehicle IMO is the azz fugly Aztek that helped bury Pontiac. POS x2

 

[koda2000]

Koda, I considered installing a Fumoto drain valve on the ST until I saw the $30 price and actually tried one on my friends F-150. Glad I didn't buy one, that thing drains S-L-O-W. Surprised you would allow a PT Cruiser anywhere near your property, only worse modern American vehicle IMO is the azz fugly Aztek that helped bury Pontiac. POS x2

Yes, they do drain slowly and I had nothing to do with the selection of the PT Snoozer. I've owned a couple of Chrysler products over the years and I will NEVER own another one. My daughter liked the PT because it looked like my '37 Ford slant-back sedan street rod.

 

[hsquare]

Koda, that filling the filter with new oil before installing idea is brilliant. The engine sounds very sick for a few seconds until the pump gets oil and moves it around.
I'll do that from now on. Thanks

 

[239]

I prefer to change oil warm because it flows better. Placement of the catch pan and where the initial "stream" of oil will end up is the challenge.
Good idea with the foil when loosening the filter, I'm used to warm oil running down my arm every time I've done it. I use plenty of old rags. LOL

BTW, I have found no better filter wrench for the FL-820S. 1" SIX point socket with extension works great.
Amazon.com: Hopkins 10606 FloTool Super Graphite Filter Wrench, Size #6: Automotive

I took my truck to the shop for my last oil change and they really tightened the filter, so I'm unable to remove it by hand. The reviews on Amazon say that this tool strips easily were it attaches to the ratchet. Would you recommend it for removing an overly tight filter?

 

[swshawaii]

^ Hence the reason I said "for the FL-820S" and using a socket instead of the 3/8" square drive on the filter that's easily rounded and stripped.

Other filter brands have different flute patterns. Hopkins wrench is made for the Motorcraft FL-820S. See flute pattern differences in bottom link.

BTW, I have found no better filter wrench for the FL-820S. 1" SIX point socket with extension works great.
Amazon.com: Hopkins 10606 FloTool Super Graphite Filter Wrench, Size #6: Automotive

Motorcraft FL-820S Oil Filter Cutaway Comparison | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

 

[239]

^ Hence the reason I said FL-820S and using a 1" six point socket instead of the filters 3/8" square drive.

Other filter brands have different flute patterns. Hopkins wrench is made for the Motorcraft FL-820S. See cutaway comparison in bottom link.


Motorcraft FL-820S Oil Filter Cutaway Comparison | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

Oh, I see. I use the FL-1A so it wouldn't work for me.

Edit: it looks like both filters are the same diameter.

 

[swshawaii]

VERY messy but many would puncture the filter straight through both sides with a large screwdriver. Be very careful, sharp edges.

 

[koda2000]

The FL-1A and FL820-S filters are about the same diameter, but one is SAE threads and the other has metric threads, hence they are not interchangeable.

If the filter is too tight to remove by hand, worst case you can run a large screwdriver through it, but in over 50 years of changing oil filters, I've never found it necessary to do that. Clean the filter with some degreaser and wear a clean latex gloves to get traction on it.

There is also different type of filter wrench design, which tightens on the filter as you apply force. It may tend to crush the filter if some idiot tightened the crap out of it, but I've found that I can prevent the filter from crushing by having the engine running while loosening the filter a little bit (the oil pressure keeps the filter case from crushing) but obviously don't unscrew it too far.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Swivel-Handle-Oil-Filter-Wrench-2-1-2-to-3/262564653901?_trksid=p2045573.c100507.m3226&_trkparms=aid=555014&algo=PL.DEFAULT&ao=1&asc=38530&meid=629dc4db1ea44fb597ae50945c35f1ad&pid=100507&rk=1&rkt=1&

 

[swshawaii]

Stubborn filters are often the result of lazy "brokechanics" not spending the extra five seconds to lube the filters o-ring seal. These are the
same clowns that leave that o-ring stuck to the block resulting in a massive leak. BTDT on a my low clearance Honda Accord trying to do
an oil change laying on cardboard without a lift.

 

[koda2000]

I let someone other than myself change my oil once (wife's brand new car was at the dealership for a warranty repair, so I figured WTF). They forgot to drain out the old oil, didn't tighten the new filter and then added 4 qts of new oil on top of the old oil. What a freaking mess. Engine puked oil everywhere on the drive home from the dealership. I'm surprised it didn't catch fire or go into hydraulic lock. Never again!