Oil Change Question about Engine Flush and Oil Addictive

[BootyDo]

Hi All!
I've recently changed my own oil on my 2006 V8, (about 88K miles), and noticed a tick in the engine for the past year or so. I'm not sure what the tick is, but since I'm due for a change soon, I was thinking of running an engine flush - specifically Motor Medic - and adding an oil addictive - specifically Bar's Leak Engine Repair. I'm having some trouble finding out the actual directions for the engine flush, (someone mentioned having to drop the oil pan which I've never done and am a bit hesitant to do), but I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience - positive or negative - with either of these products or their alternatives.

For reference, in addition to the tick, my truck has a hesitation around 1,500rpm that makes the car feel like it's driving on those warning lines by the shoulder. I flip the overdrive off, (which revs slightly higher), to get over that. Technically my truck has had normal oil changes, but since I drive very little, I'm fearful I waited too long in the past, (meaning I may have 3,000 miles if that but it could take me 8 months). Engine isn't the most impressive as I am lucky to get 12MPG. And the other huge issue is my radiator fan making my truck sound like a UPS truck when a compressor is on, (AC or Defogger).

Any insight is greatly appreciated!

 

[shucker1]

If you have owned the rig since new and done regular oil changes your should not need any type of Oil Flush.

The bad thing about an oil flush is that you run the risk of washing a bunch of "Goo" out of the upper engine which can plug up the oil pump screen.

As for the oil additive or engine fix I would try changing brands first. My 86 Mustang 5.0 ticks like crazy with Castrol 10W-30. Same weight Valvoline it's nice and quiet.

Don't ask why, it just works.

 

[BootyDo]

Thanks for the insight! Unfortunately, I purchased the truck used about 3-4 years ago. I do very little driving and most of it is city driving, (). When I bought my Explorer, I think there was 72k on it or something. Very little. I'm fearful I neglected the engine because I felt safe given the little I drove and ignored simple seasonal duration. I guess in hindsight, I shouldn't have been as wary about changing my own oil, (at the time, I could never justify $50 for 1,000 miles even though it was like 8 months).

But that's interesting when you mentioned about other brands. When I changed my last one, (in the Fall about 2,000 miles ago), I used Mobile 1 High Mileage in there. Wonder what Ford uses at the Dealership for their Synthetic changes?

 

[2stroke]

My advice... Get the cheapest conventional oil you can get and change it twice a year. Synthetic is the way to go without a doubt if you drive more than 10k a year, but time is just as much a factor. Stuff in your oil settles down in your engine, and builds up over time. That ticking is most likely lifters. The ticking itself is not a bad thing, and your engine will last a long time with it. I don't see what oil you use now, but going up in viscosity will quiet the engine some. If you run 5w-20 now, try a 5w-30, or if you use 5w-30 try 10w-30 or even 10w-40. Rotella 5w-40 is great stuff too. Nothing but engine oil should ever go in your crank case.

 

[BootyDo]

My advice... Get the cheapest conventional oil you can get and change it twice a year. Synthetic is the way to go without a doubt if you drive more than 10k a year, but time is just as much a factor. Stuff in your oil settles down in your engine, and builds up over time. That ticking is most likely lifters. The ticking itself is not a bad thing, and your engine will last a long time with it. I don't see what oil you use now, but going up in viscosity will quiet the engine some. If you run 5w-20 now, try a 5w-30, or if you use 5w-30 try 10w-30 or even 10w-40. Rotella 5w-40 is great stuff too. Nothing but engine oil should ever go in your crank case.

Thanks 2S! I also suspect it's a lifter, but it's just embarrassing. Almost reminds me of a one of those prize wheels folks spin at bazaars and what not I'm not against the thought of conventional oil, but the idea of changing weight is a bit concerning. I'm currently running 5W-20 Mobil1 High Mleage, (and filter), but going with your thought, if I only changed twice a year, would it make sense to go with the recommended weight during the cold part of the year and lighter during the warmup?

 

[Tech By Trade]

Cam phaser is also very likely, and quite a common failure on the V8.