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Oil changes - 2.3L

07EddyB

Explorer Addict
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City, State
Bowling Green, KY
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Ford Explorer 4.6 V8
Looking forward to the first oil change on the 22 Timberline so I checked out the filter location. The Timberline comes with factory skid plates and there is a hole under the filter in the skid plate - but it seems to be off center of the filter. Wondering if I'm going to have to drop the skid plate to change the oil? It's a vertical filter but they can still release a lot of oil when unscrewed which could result in a mess above the skid plate.
Question is - when you change your oil on the 2.3 how much leakage do you get when you drop the filter? If it's not much then I can just get some rags up there to soak it up - otherwise oil changes just got 8 bolts harder.
 



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Just changed mine last week. I had a fair amount of leakage from the filter. And I think you definitely have to drop the fabric cover under the filter and drain plug. You have to detach the rear side of a plastic cover just ahead of it to remove the fabric cover which overlaps. And there are like 8 screws and 2 types of plastic clips to remove. A real hassle. Might leave the felt cover off next time.
 






Thought I would revive this rather than posting a new thread. So I went to change the oil in the Timberline today and after some looking and thought decided to drop the skid plate to make things less messy. Understand that the Timberline has a metal skid plate that goes all the way back to cover the transmission also - not just the little fabric cover. While under the vehicle I tapped on the skid plate with my hand - and the rattle that produced was very loud. It seemed to be coming from the middle/front somewhere. I thought that was odd but decided to continue. My plan was to remove one of the two rear bolts (it's held by all bolts - no clips or plastic fasteners) and leave one in to slide it to one side without dropping it completely. First bolt came out hard and slow - like the threads were dirty. Second bolt came out even harder - until it came completely out and the rear of the skid plate dropped about 2.5 to 3 inches under really tight pressure. I could not at that point put a bolt back in the hole and push it up enough to refasten it. Understand that there are three rows of bolts - one at the front, one towards the middle but biased toward the front, and the ones in the back that I removed. I decided to regroup and do a little research so in order to refasten the rear I had to cut a piece of wood to wedge the rear back in place against the floor to get the plate high enough to get the bolts to bite.
This all seems very strange to me - has anyone here with a Timberline dropped their middle skid plate yet? I'm not really finding anything on this with an internet search. It is apparently a very poorly shaped piece if there is that much tension on it simply by removing the two rear bolts. I guess they could have put it under tension to eliminate rattles - but the thing rattles simply by hitting it with your hand with all bolts in - before I even loosened one. It shouldn't be a structural piece since it's the only version with it.
Hoping someone here has been there or heard something.
 






So I never really figured anything out on the skid plate but I got the oil changed today. I built a pair of ramps to get the front end up 3 inches and that gave me room to go under from the front and get a good look at the hole in the plate for the oil change and where everything was located. I decided not to drop the plate based on that even though I built the ramps to help me drop the skid plate. Draining the oil from the pan was great - not a drop on the skid plate. The filter was less so and dumped quite a bit of oil on the skid plate. It cleaned up fairly easily but next time I'm either going to drop the front of the plate or poke a hole in the filter to contain the mess.
OilChg.JPG
 






A few extra inches of clearance helps with the oil changes on my Platinum too.

1665890623386.png
 






I built these years ago to perform the service on my Ram easier:

New Lift 11a.jpg



New Lift 21a.jpg


I can get under our rides easily. At my age, "easy" is kinda important.
 






Got all the stuff to DIY my oil change this weekend.
My little Pittsburgh low-pro jack won't even get the front wheels off the ground, at full extension.
Those wood block ramps are a good idea, might have to look into that.

Do both undertrays need to be removed to get at everything? Couldn't tell with how little I could shimmy under there with it on the ground.
 






Good oil and a long life filter, Plus a S-load of paper towels is half of what a dealer charges, Plus dealer rotates the tires.......NOT WORTH F-ing with in my opinion.
 






Has anyone researched a replacement o-ring for the oil drain plug? Just did the 2nd oil change on my wife's Limited and I think that the plug is weeping due to a flat o-ring.
 






Has anyone researched a replacement o-ring for the oil drain plug? Just did the 2nd oil change on my wife's Limited and I think that the plug is weeping due to a flat o-ring.

Does yours use the plastic oil drain plug like the 3.0L? If so, you're supposed to change that with each oil change.
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Does yours use the plastic oil drain plug like the 3.0L? If so, you're supposed to change that with each oil change.
No - it is a metal plug with an o-ring for the 2.3L
 






No - it is a metal plug with an o-ring for the 2.3L
4 wheel drive? If so, your suspected oil drain plug leak could actually be the recently reported Front Axle Disconnect Actuator (FADA) yellow o-ring leak that runs down the oil pan right above the oil drain plug. Just something for your consideration.
 






My next oil change, I'm putting in a Fumoto valve.
Put one on our Expedition last change & did my first oil change with it over the weekend. Much simplified, no worries about stripping threads or o-rings. Just flip the lever & let it drain.
Plan for the next oil change on the Exped is to modify the undertray with an access hole so I can reach up to open the valve & affixing a drain tube to the undertray so it'll be even easier. Will be looking at doing the same on the Explorer in a couple thousand miles when it's due.
 






4 wheel drive? If so, your suspected oil drain plug leak could actually be the recently reported Front Axle Disconnect Actuator (FADA) yellow o-ring leak that runs down the oil pan right above the oil drain plug. Just something for your consideration.
Wow - was not aware of this TSB. Now I have something else to investigate; if ours has the old front axle disconnect actuator or an intermediate shaft!
 






Wow - was not aware of this TSB. Now I have something else to investigate; if ours has the old front axle disconnect actuator or an intermediate shaft!
You have the old FADA if you have a 2020.
 












what an abomination you got for drain plug :D
The 2020-21 Explorer used a plastic oil pan and therefore used that type of plug.
I believe that my previous 2020 Aviator also used this type of plug. It was replaced with every oil change.

Peter
 






The 2020-21 Explorer used a plastic oil pan and therefore used that type of plug.
I believe that my previous 2020 Aviator also used this type of plug. It was replaced with every oil change.

Peter
Peter - I don't have access to our Explorer at the moment, but is this dependent on the engine installed?
 






Peter - I don't have access to our Explorer at the moment, but is this dependent on the engine installed?
It seems to be the 2020-21 Explorer with the 2.7L engine and the 2016-18 PIU with the 3.5L. So my 2020 Aviator did not.

Peter
 



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2 litre explorer.... sounds like baby explorer, for toddlers
 






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