oil leak help?

[cjben]

2004 explorer xlt 4.6 v8 125,000 miles. Has an oil leak,seems to be coming from the driver's side front of the engine. I thought it might be valve cover,but the side of the engine is dry. Can't really see anything leaking around the oil filter,but it does seem to be coming from that area or higher. I laid under it today with the engine running for 10 minutes,couldn't see a single drop come out,so I am thinking maybe it only leaks at higher rpms? Any common places in this area for it to leak? I have never owned a ford with the 4.6 engine,so have no experience with it. thanks for the help!!

 

[lincolnshibuya]

the oil filter adapter is known to leak, you could try focus on that area.

 

[FordFool2]

Oil filter adapter gasket is known problem. Read this thread:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=362855&highlight=adapter

 

[Lurkin]

2004 explorer xlt 4.6 v8 125,000 miles. Has an oil leak,seems to be coming from the driver's side front of the engine. I thought it might be valve cover,but the side of the engine is dry. Can't really see anything leaking around the oil filter,but it does seem to be coming from that area or higher. I laid under it today with the engine running for 10 minutes,couldn't see a single drop come out,so I am thinking maybe it only leaks at higher rpms? Any common places in this area for it to leak? I have never owned a ford with the 4.6 engine,so have no experience with it. thanks for the help!!

I found this thread very helpful, especially the diagram. I recently bought an 02 Explorer, and it had a pretty good oil leak up front. It mainly dripped from the front cross member, and from reading from this forum, the oil filter adapter plate gasket seemed to be the culprit. I bought the gasket online and replaced it last weekend.

I thought it was a pretty hateful job. It;s difficult to see anything due to the location. It's difficult to get light in there to see, and get your hands in there at the same time.. Much of it was done by braille. It did help me to remove the driver side front wheel. It really helped for a couple of the bolts. I was a bit scared when I I got everything back together, fluids refilled, etc., and started it up..... I was almost expecting a water or oil leak, because it was so difficult to see the surfaces to make sure they were well cleaned up.

It took me much longer than others that have posted here, but I ran it for most of an hour with no more drip at all.

I really appreciate this thread and everyone's input, Thanks everyone!

This weekend is a tranny filter and fluid change, which I've read much about on here. Hopefully it will go well. No wonder I couldn't find a trans dipstick, there isn't one???? fillling the trans with a pump from below, seems like an odd poor design, but... giddy up here we gooooo.....

 

[Lurkin]

Oil filter adapter gasket is known problem. Read this thread:

Oil Filter Adapter Housing Gasket

I really appreciate your input, thanks! I actually did read through the thread several times before I changed the gasket. It was extremely helpful. I could throw in a few other tips from my experience with it, it wasn't one of my favorite things I've done, at all...

 

[Lurkin]

the oil filter adapter is known to leak, you could try focus on that area.

I did focus on it, and so far, so good, knock on wood, no more oil leak so far Thanks!

 

[wheredidigowrong]

2002 4.6 XLT and seems I now have this problem. Been having what the oil change place calls a "major oil leak" for some time now. Brought it to 1 mechanic and he said it was the oil pan seal and quoted me around $1,100. After extensive research (mostly here...THANKS guys!) I have come to the conclusion that the Oil Filter Adapter/Housing gasket is probably the source of my leaks.

I've called or visited 5 different shops and have been quoted anywhere from $300 to over $500, definitely over the $250 mentioned in many of the previous posts on this issue. I've considered doing the job myself but find this one very intimidating due to the fact that I don't have a wide array of tools and the very limited space in which to work. I wouldn't want to get 1/2 way into the job and find there's something I can't deal with and have to get a flatbed to take me to a shop.

Can anyone w limited experience and tools talk me into or out of trying to take this one on myself?

Any input is greatly appreciated!

 

[Lurkin]

2002 4.6 XLT and seems I now have this problem. Been having what the oil change place calls a "major oil leak" for some time now. Brought it to 1 mechanic and he said it was the oil pan seal and quoted me around $1,100. After extensive research (mostly here...THANKS guys!) I have come to the conclusion that the Oil Filter Adapter/Housing gasket is probably the source of my leaks.

I've called or visited 5 different shops and have been quoted anywhere from $300 to over $500, definitely over the $250 mentioned in many of the previous posts on this issue. I've considered doing the job myself but find this one very intimidating due to the fact that I don't have a wide array of tools and the very limited space in which to work. I wouldn't want to get 1/2 way into the job and find there's something I can't deal with and have to get a flatbed to take me to a shop.

Can anyone w limited experience and tools talk me into or out of trying to take this one on myself?

Any input is greatly appreciated!

I'm somewhat limited on tools and experience, but, I would just say, when I did mine, it did help to remove the driver's side wheel. It takes mostly basic sockets, but some bolts are easier with deep sockets and a combination of different lengths of extensions and a swivel so you can get to where you can turn the bolts easier.

Also, some patience ans maybe cussing a bit may have helped.

Best of luck if you decide to, I didn't particularly have any fun, but it fixed the leak, and I think it was more like $10 instead of $300-$500

 

[Lurkin]

2002 4.6 XLT and seems I now have this problem. Been having what the oil change place calls a "major oil leak" for some time now. Brought it to 1 mechanic and he said it was the oil pan seal and quoted me around $1,100. After extensive research (mostly here...THANKS guys!) I have come to the conclusion that the Oil Filter Adapter/Housing gasket is probably the source of my leaks.

I've called or visited 5 different shops and have been quoted anywhere from $300 to over $500, definitely over the $250 mentioned in many of the previous posts on this issue. I've considered doing the job myself but find this one very intimidating due to the fact that I don't have a wide array of tools and the very limited space in which to work. I wouldn't want to get 1/2 way into the job and find there's something I can't deal with and have to get a flatbed to take me to a shop.

Can anyone w limited experience and tools talk me into or out of trying to take this one on myself?

Any input is greatly appreciated!

Also, on your swivel, or wobbly, mine wobbled a little too much, but a few wraps of electrical tape on the joint helps that. It's still flexible, but you can get it onto the bolt without it swiveling too much in a hard to reach spot

 

[wheredidigowrong]

I'm somewhat limited on tools and experience, but, I would just say, when I did mine, it did help to remove the driver's side wheel. It takes mostly basic sockets, but some bolts are easier with deep sockets and a combination of different lengths of extensions and a swivel so you can get to where you can turn the bolts easier.

Also, some patience ans maybe cussing a bit may have helped.

Best of luck if you decide to, I didn't particularly have any fun, but it fixed the leak, and I think it was more like $10 instead of $300-$500

Thanks Lurkin. I figure w the cost of the 6qts of oil, new filter, new coolant and the gasket itself + a new lower radiator hose (from what I can see mine is all eaten up and frayed on the ends...so why not replace it) it'll be more like $100 but yeah that's still a big savings. Might try and tackle early next week and I'll report back once (if LOL) I do it.

 

[Lurkin]

You're right, I didn't add in the cost of an oil & filter change, new coolant, or the hose if it's getting to the point of replacement. You should still be able to do it for under $100 with some time & maybe some frustration. but really, make sure you have extensions and wobbly. I guess that was one more thing about the project that made it just feel better was that the fluids were all new and that's kind of a feelgood that you don't have to worry about for a while.

Again, best of luck!

 

[LMHmedchem]

Not to add overly to the costs, but it's a good time to do a radiator flush since you will have your coolant out. If you get some Thermocure, you add it and then top off with water. You will have to look the amounts of Thermocure and water you will need to add, but I think the Ex uses about 4 gallons of coolant. You drive around for a day or so and then flush with clean water. Once the water starts coming out clean, you drain and fill with normal coolant. I am sure there are good videos on what to do. You are getting new coolant anyway, so the added cost is just the Thermocure.

As Lurkin said, through the drivers wheel well is the best access. I did mine with the power steering pump out so I had very good access to the area.

Again, more money, but I would also think about replacing the oil pressure sender when you have the adapter off, unless you know it has been replace before. The Motorcraft part is about $8 and it will never be easier to replace. I think that the link above is correct for your truck, but as always, check it yourself if you are going to order one.

Since you have the 4.6L v8, this also the time to look at the issue discussed in this thread. One of the wires that frequently breaks is the connection to the oil pressure sender. Since you will be looking right there, this is the best time to at lest check if the wires are in good shape or not.

I hate to add to your list, but it is always helpful to do everything at once when you are working in an area and have things apart.

LMHmedchem

 

[wheredidigowrong]

Not to add overly to the costs, but it's a good time to do a radiator flush since you will have your coolant out. If you get some Thermocure, you add it and then top off with water. You will have to look the amounts of Thermocure and water you will need to add, but I think the Ex uses about 4 gallons of coolant. You drive around for a day or so and then flush with clean water. Once the water starts coming out clean, you drain and fill with normal coolant. I am sure there are good videos on what to do. You are getting new coolant anyway, so the added cost is just the Thermocure.

As Lurkin said, through the drivers wheel well is the best access. I did mine with the power steering pump out so I had very good access to the area.

Again, more money, but I would also think about replacing the oil pressure sender when you have the adapter off, unless you know it has been replace before. The Motorcraft part is about $8 and it will never be easier to replace. I think that the link above is correct for your truck, but as always, check it yourself if you are going to order one.

Since you have the 4.6L v8, this also the time to look at the issue discussed in this thread. One of the wires that frequently breaks is the connection to the oil pressure sender. Since you will be looking right there, this is the best time to at lest check if the wires are in good shape or not.

I hate to add to your list, but it is always helpful to do everything at once when you are working in an area and have things apart.

LMHmedchem

Thanks for the suggestions LHM I think I will change the sensor and believe I can get it for under $20 at my local Ford Dealership (basically the same price as Rock Auto w shipping) and will definitely look into doing the radiator flush I'm just not sure I have enough buckets/containers to capture all the extra fluid.

Here's a really novice/stupid question. Where's the power steering pump located and how difficult is removing it for access to the job I need to do?

 

[LMHmedchem]

Here's a really novice/stupid question. Where's the power steering pump located and how difficult is removing it for access to the job I need to do?

The PS pump is the S-belt pulley that is furthest to the drivers side. It is basically above the oil filter. For some of the reasons I mentioned in another thread, it is unreasonably difficult to remove. There are 2 bolts and 2 studs that mount it to the engine, along with another stud that secures the bracket. The problem is that one of the mount bolts is directly under the output pressure hose fitting, so you have to remove the hose to get to the bolt. This means draining the PS fluid, or finding some kind of plug that you could put into the opening after removing the hose. Also, you have to remove the pulley in order to get to the hose fitting. This means using a special tool to ratchet off the pulley. All of this could be avoided by a design that was intended to make it easy to service instead of the opposite. The setup should be designed so that you are able to unbolt the pump and bracket and move the assembly some without having to drain and disconnect the hydraulics. Unfortunately, it is not.

At any rate, it is definitely not worth removing the pump for the added access. For me, this was a case of "while I have the PS pump out", I am going to service the other parts in the area that may need attention. It would never be easier for me to change out this gasket and sensor because I already had both the coolant and oil out of the truck and easy access to the area from above.

Don't forget to look at the wiring while you are in there. The wire to the oil pressure sender is the one that is most likely to have worn through, so you may replace the sensor and get it back together only to find that it is not connected anymore.

The wire repair involves going under the truck to disconnect the wire harness. Don't even consider doing that if you don't have a good jack and a quality set of at least 3-ton jack stands. Also, make sure that the wheels are properly chocked, front and back. You mentioned having limited tools and these things are not optional.

LMHmedchem

 

[wheredidigowrong]

The PS pump is the S-belt pulley that is furthest to the drivers side. It is basically above the oil filter. For some of the reasons I mentioned in another thread, it is unreasonably difficult to remove. There are 2 bolts and 2 studs that mount it to the engine, along with another stud that secures the bracket. The problem is that one of the mount bolts is directly under the output pressure hose fitting, so you have to remove the hose to get to the bolt. This means draining the PS fluid, or finding some kind of plug that you could put into the opening after removing the hose. Also, you have to remove the pulley in order to get to the hose fitting. This means using a special tool to ratchet off the pulley. All of this could be avoided by a design that was intended to make it easy to service instead of the opposite. You should be able to unbolt the pump and bracket and move the assembly some without having to drain and disconnect the hydraulics.

At any rate, it is definitely not worth removing the pump for the added access. For me, this was a case of "while I have the PS pump out", I am going to service the other parts in the area that may need attention. It would never be easier for me to change out this gasket and sensor because I already had both the coolant and oil out of the truck and easy access to the area from above.

Don't forget to look at the wiring while you are in there. The wire to the oil pressure sender is the one that is most likely to have worn through so you may replace the sensor and get it back together only to find that it is not connected.

The wire repair involves going under the truck to disconnect the wire harness. Don't even consider doing that if you don't have a good jack and a quality set of at least 3-ton jack stands. Also, make sure that the wheels are properly chocked, front and back. You mentioned having limited tools and these things are not optional.

LMHmedchem

Well I most DEFINITELY won't be removing the PS Pump LOL.

I have a 1.5 ton floor jack that works very well though doesn't lift the truck as high as I'd like it to. It's really light and portable which is why I prefer it to the much much heavier 2 & 3 ton jacks and I do have jack stands. 2 ton but not 3 ton and they have done a great job when I've needed to do some previous jobs (front hub and bearing replacement etc...)

Thanks again for all your help, guidance and advice LMH I really appreciate it!

 

[wheredidigowrong]

I was going to attempt to tackle this job today but it's raining so looks like tomorrow or Wednesday. One last question for everyone who has undertaken this work. The underside of the truck where I need to remove the adaptor is covered and I mean COVERED in oil most likely from this leak over a long period of time. I'd like to try and "clean" the area as much as possible prior to getting started. I've read all kinds of things from Brakleen to power washing the undercarriage. Would either of these harm the Oil Sensor/Sender adaptor switch clip or any other sensitive parts associated with or located near the Oil Filter Adaptor?

Any input/insight is appreciated!

 

[LMHmedchem]

When cleaning, I usually start with a paint scraper and screwdriver. You should be able to remove allot of the heavy stuff that way. After that, I would probably try paint thinner and a scrub brush. You need something to dissolve the oil. Apply the thinner and scrub to get the oil loose. Wipe it off with shop towels. I would finish with liquid dish washing detergent and ammonia. Scrub well with a scrub brush and then hose it off. Everything under your truck gets wet from the road, so you shouldn't have any issues unless you do have an exposed wire from the insulation having worn off. Just don't over do it with the water.

Please remember to wear full eye protection if you are under the truck scrubbing. You definitely don't want any of solvent or old oil splashing in your eyes.

LMHmedchem

 

[wheredidigowrong]

OK now I could really use some help...Got into this job today and when I went to remove the radiator drain plug it broke off. Fortunately there is enough of the plug still in the radiator to keep any coolant from leaking out but I'd really like to try and drill out or remove the remaining piece of the plastic plug. The BIG PROBLEM is there is NO part matching this plug for the 4.6. There is Ford part number 8115 for the 4.0 and my local Ford Dealer said the radiators should be the same but when I input that info on Fordparts.com it says "this part doesn't fit your vehicle".

Has anyone dealt with this in the past and do you know if the 8115 works for both the 4.0 and the 4.6?

Thanks in advance!

 

[mountaineer2004]

If it were me, I'd quit while I was ahead. Your plug broke off but didn't affect function, and the car still runs. Consider that luck.

Maybe you can leave it alone till you need to do serious rad work? So many times in the past, I wished "I had just left it alone".

My car has 261k miles with the original coolant, and runs like a top.

 

[wheredidigowrong]

I just want to thank Lurkin and LHMmedchem for all the guidance and support.

I Finally got this job done and like others it took me more than the 3 hours some of you were able to complete the job in. I needed some new tools which were swivel/flex sockets...(don't know how I lived without these before and I COULDN'T have done the job without them) and extra long extensions.

The 4 bolts were indeed a PITA but I was able to get them in and out with the swivel socket/long extension combo. The original gasket was a MESS. It was actually broken apart/completely destroyed at the large hole where the coolant passes through and the "ridges" around the oil holes were completely flat as others have noted.

I replaced the oil pressure sensor switch along with the gasket but as mentioned earlier was not able to perform the Coolant flush due to my breaking the head off the radiator drain plug. I drained the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose which caused a BIG mess as my bucket was only so big and some fluid came pouring out of places I didn't anticipate. I also replaced the factory Ford hose clamps with worm clamps as the Ford clamps were just too difficult to remove and replace on the hoses. I hope the worm clamps hold but so far so good and dry.

Things seem dry where the oil filter adapter housing gasket was leaking but I'm seeing fresh, clean oil on the side of the lower oil pan which makes me think I have an additional oil leak coming from somewhere else as well. The cross member seems pretty clean whereas before it would have multiple drips a day or so after wiping it clean. Now I need to figure out if I want to try and locate where the additional oil leak is coming from or just learn to live with it until it becomes a serious issue.

I really appreciate this forum and the super friendly, responsive and helpful fellow members...

CHEERS!