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Solved Oil leak.

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.

mekelly

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 13, 2014
Messages
181
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City, State
Marietta, GA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Ford Explorer XLT
I have a small oil leak (creates a dime size stain overnight) just behind the oil drain bolt. There's a bolt that appears to be securing a piece of thin metal to the oil pan (see picture link).

https://www.dropbox.com/s/i6zkhzv7swytjuj/Oil Pan.jpg?dl=0

It looks like that joint, right where's the thin metal piece, is where it's leaking.

What is that? What is the bolt securing? Any idea what needs to happen to fix a leak there?

Thanks!!!
 



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That thin metal is the flex plate cover. The oil could be leaking from the rear main seal or the back of the pan. Both would require you to pull the motor to fix it. You probably have to live with this leak like most people do.
 






Thanks for the quick reply!

Not what I wanted hear but glad to know what's causing it.
 






After a little research, I decided to give ATP AT-205 Re-seal a shot.

I am not an additive kind of guy but for $8, it's worth a try. I am certainly not going to pay to have the motor pulled and the seal replaced on a 21 year old vehicle with 178,000 miles. As the leak just started and is pretty small I am hoping that the re conditioner has a fighting chance of slowing/stopping the leak (at least for a while).

I'll post an update once the car's had a couple of hundred miles put on it to see if the leak has stopped.
 






Mekelly, it's good stuff. Even works on struts if they're not too far gone (even the ones on the liftgate and back glass), bushings too. Go for it.

I don't like snakr oils either, but I've had mechanics recommend it and gave it a try. Won't work on gaskets, just seals.
 






I tried the AT205 before in my tranny. I didn't work but when I eventually dropped the tranny to fix it the seal was so harden no additive would of worked. I have use Bars engine stop leak in my motor. It works for a while but you got to keep adding it when you see the leaks start again.
 






Unfortunately, I know these additives are best case, only temporary fixes. In this case, I used it anyway as it was worth $8 to give it a shot. We"ll see!

I will say I had a small head gasket leak where I was loosing a fair amount of coolant. I added K&W Head gasket Sealer w/nanotechnology and it pretty much fixed the problem. It brought the #4 compression numbers up to the rest of the cylinders (it was 20 pounds less).

It's been several thousand miles and compression readings are still consistent across all cylinders and I only have very very small loss of coolant (an oz. or two.) over months of daily driving.

Time will tell how long it lasts, but there are cases where these products can, and do, work really well.
 












Follow-up

It's been about a month and although I've only driven the car about 200 miles, the ATP AT-205 re-sealer product has conditioned the seal enough to stop the leak!

Your mileage may vary, but in my case, I think I caught the leak right as it started so the seal was still able to be conditioned.

Of course, it may start leaking again tomorrow, but for now, no leaks!!!
 






Great! It's good stuff. Lucas is too. Do I like using additives? No. But pulling an engine is either expensive or time consuming depending on whether you do it yourself or have someone do it.
 












Don't you just love when stuff in a bottle actually works
 






I do! In fact, I bought another bottle and put it in my 1999 Expedition as a preventative measure after it cured the Explorer leak.
 












Here's the link from the ATP website:

http://atpautomotive.com/fluids-and-additives/re-seal

I couldn't find it at Advanced or Autozone, purchased it at CarQuest although it's sold online through Amazon, etc.

Have only used it in the crankcase but they claim you can use it in every system except the brakes.

Good stuff!!!
 












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