Oil Pump Primer

[Roadie-01]

Excuse me if this has been asked. I did a search but couldn't find the answer I was looking for.
I have a 92 Explorer XLT with the 4.0 ohv motor. I just rebuilt my engine but before I crank it over, I want to use an Oil Pump Primer. (yes, I did use engine lube during assembly) I have read where others have used an E11 torx bit (ground down) on a 1/4" drive extension but does anyone make the correct tool for this job?
The only Oil Pump Primer (tool) I have found at the local auto parts store was either 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch.
Thanx for your time

 

[Number4]

Most people disconnect the fuel pump (inertia switch or relay) and use the starter to crank the engine, which turns the pump.

 

[natenkiki2004]

If you want to make it even easier, remove the plugs and it won't heat the starter up as much. Plus, it won't put force on the connecting rods and associated bearings.

Some of the older Explorers had a real junky power distribution box that had the relays hidden underneath. If that's the case, it's probably easiest to take a wire/jumper from the small top terminal on the fender solenoid to the forwardmost lug. That will jumper power to activate the solenoid, just like the ignition switch does. It'll crank over but without the key on, you won't get any spark or fuel.

 

[Maniak]

Another way to turn off the fuel pump on the early 1st gens is to trip the inertia switch.

I just use a rubber mallet and whack the floor around it (and it) and it will pop/trip the switch which turns off the fuel pump...

It's on the firewall just right of the transmission hump..

When you are done and want the fuel pump again just push the little plunger thing down on the top of the switch.

~Mark

 

[FR-425]

I went to the bone yard and got a junk CMP, disassembled it and use the shaft as my driver.

The gear is held on with a roll-pin, just pop it out and remove gear from the shaft. Remove the cap and the signal ring, slide the shaft out the bottom. done.

You will need a 1/2" chuck on your drill. The shaft is just a bit to big for a 3/8 drill.

 

[2stroke]

Wack the inertia switch with a hammer? As if it isn't touchy enough already, give it another reason.

Either pull the relay, or unplug the inertia switch. Either one takes 3 seconds. Then just turn the key. No need to pull plugs, 10 seconds will lube the engine plenty. It's not needed anyway.

 

[Maniak]

Wack the inertia switch with a hammer? As if it isn't touchy enough already, give it another reason.

Either pull the relay, or unplug the inertia switch. Either one takes 3 seconds. Then just turn the key. No need to pull plugs, 10 seconds will lube the engine plenty. It's not needed anyway.

Sure, why not??? They aren't made of paper mache, a rubber mallet won't kill it. I've done that to mine probably 4 or 5 times through its almost 400k miles.

This last weekend was the first time it ever tripped without me doing it and it was caused by dropping the front of the X off a 2 ft rock ledge and shoving the drivers side bumper directly into the ground.. It was a hard enough hit to push the bumper back 4" and buckle the fender..

~Mark.

 

[Number4]

Sure, why not??? They aren't made of paper mache, a rubber mallet won't kill it. I've done that to mine probably 4 or 5 times through its almost 400k miles.

This last weekend was the first time it ever tripped without me doing it and it was caused by dropping the front of the X off a 2 ft rock ledge and shoving the drivers side bumper directly into the ground.. It was a hard enough hit to push the bumper back 4" and buckle the fender..

~Mark.

Sounds like a lot of effort with your new technique, probably should have just stuck with using the hammer.

 

[2stroke]

My 94 explorer will trip if a passenger hits it right. My 94 B4000 has been good so far, but we used to have a 2003 ranger that really was made of paper. Once my uncle was driving it and when he dropped his water bottle in the passenger foot area, the truck shut down going 70 mph. Not to mention its easier to just unplug the thing rather than find a mallet.

So did the OP fire up the new rebuild yet?

 

[Roadie-01]

Thank you everyone for the advice. I’ve been putting in mega hours at my job recently so I haven’t had time to even pop the hood on the Explorer. I think I’m going to hit the junk yard and pull an Oil Pump Upper Drive Shaft and make my own primer tool.
I’d also like to thank anyone and everyone who has ever posted a “how to” on this site....... Having been a member of this place for 13 &1/2 years, you have all helped me out many, many times. All info here is appreciated. So thanks again. You all rock!

 

[natenkiki2004]

If you want to make it even easier, remove the plugs and it won't heat the starter up as much. Plus, it won't put force on the connecting rods and associated bearings.

Some of the older Explorers had a real junky power distribution box that had the relays hidden underneath. If that's the case, it's probably easiest to take a wire/jumper from the small top terminal on the fender solenoid to the forwardmost lug. That will jumper power to activate the solenoid, just like the ignition switch does. It'll crank over but without the key on, you won't get any spark or fuel.

I made a video about this earlier today. May not be useful to the OP but someone might like it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_O2YmNk_Wg

 

[Number4]

Thank you everyone for the advice. I’ve been putting in mega hours at my job recently so I haven’t had time to even pop the hood on the Explorer. I think I’m going to hit the junk yard and pull an Oil Pump Upper Drive Shaft and make my own primer tool.
I’d also like to thank anyone and everyone who has ever posted a “how to” on this site....... Having been a member of this place for 13 &1/2 years, you have all helped me out many, many times. All info here is appreciated. So thanks again. You all rock!

Any update on this?

 

[Roadie-01]

I made a cheap oil pump priming tool that worked great.
It won’t last forever but it served my one time use.
Here’s how:

#1) Get another Oil Pump Drive Gear from the local junkyard.

#2) Slide the push pin out of the main shaft with a punch & hammer. (I used a nail)

#3) Slide the gear & washers off the drive shaft.

#4) Punch a hole in the top cap with a nail, screw or drill.

#5) Stick a screw driver in the hole you made and pop out the center cap.
Inside, you will see a C-clip.


#6) Remove C-clip with a screw driver.

#7) Lightly tap the gear end of shaft out. (sliding shaft out the top)
Use a hammer or tap it on the ground.

#8) Using a grinder, lightly grind the top, outside edge of the shaft to accept a 12mm, 6 point socket. (Basically, making 6 flat edges)
(I used a ¼ in. drive socket)

#9) Place the socket onto the shaft.

If you don’t have access to a grinder, use a ½ in socket. Fill the socket with SteelStik putty
(not allowing putty to go into drive part of socket)
and place shaft all the way into the socket & putty and let dry.
(This will make your socket unusable)

#10) I then wrapped the socket and shaft with Gorilla tape.
(It's the strongest tape I know of)

#11) Connect any length extension and/or universal-socket-joint that you need to the socket.


#12) Connect 1/4 "in dr. x 2 in. socket adapter" to your 1/4" socket extension to accommodate drill chuck.

#13) Spin oil pump with drill (reverse drill rotation)

I hope this helped someone.

​

 

[Number4]

Nice job!


Just remember, if you delete the pictures from the source, they're gone from here too.

 

[2stroke]

Nice job on the tool, but what is the advantage of this?

 

[Roadie-01]

For me, the advantage is comfort. I’m an old school guy. I learned motors on muscle cars, building old Chevy 350’s, Ford 351’s etc. So it’s kinda drilled into my head to always avoid a dry start. This tool can also be used to see if your oil pump is working........

Oh and Number4, This was the first time I've ever posted a pic here. Is there way way to upload the pics to this website?

 

[natenkiki2004]

With hydraulic lifters and cam chain tensioners, I'd imagine it would also be a good idea to build up pressure then rotate the engine by hand maybe 90 degrees and build up pressure again, then rotate and repeat. That should ensure that everything is filled and nothing is dry.

Good job on making the tool and providing a tutorial.

 

[Number4]

Oh and Number4, This was the first time I've ever posted a pic here. Is there way way to upload the pics to this website?

Yes and no. If you become an Elite member ($20/year) you can post pics directly. This means the pics stay with the thread as long as the thread exists.

Nothing like a good tutorial where the images have all been 'deleted.'

The down side, pictures all go at the bottom. So you can't put text right above them.

Either way works.

 

[Number4]

Well, I'm ready to put my engine back in. Anyone know of the engine can be primed by turning the crank by hand, while the engines still out?

 

[natenkiki2004]

Well, I'm ready to put my engine back in. Anyone know of the engine can be primed by turning the crank by hand, while the engines still out?

Hook a drill or impact gun up to the harmonic balancer pulley bolt and crank it with the spark plugs out. That should spin it fast enough to build some pressure. If you're really concerned, maybe get some 0w-30 oil just to fill it and get it flowing as quickly as possible.