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On A Mission for MORE POWER in California

also for plug wires, moroso #73220 have the correct plug angle at the spark plug. you will need to buy the ends for the coil packs however (http://www.kingsbornewires.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=S-1731) and the nice thing about that wire set is you can cut them to the length you need.
one problem you may face looking at your original post is if you need to go to taller valve covers, the egr tube may hit them. i lucked out and the trick flow ones i have just clear with about 1/4 inch to spare.
for the TMH's, yes they do suck. but they are better then stock manifolds so they suck to a lesser degree. after all, who modifies these things? pretty much nobody so our choices are limited. i did look into getting headers made from a local fab shop and they said around $1500. but they never did see the truck, so i have a feeling the price will change when they do.
if you are going to go to a bigger cam, you will more then likely want to change your springs. the explorer valve springs cant really handle too many rpms, or a high lift cam. you can always use a fox mustang cam (stock one) and you will be safe with that one. but also from what i have read, changing the cam with the motor in is not so fun, or not possible (once again, i havent done it myself so i cant say for sure).
shameless plug here, but if you are looking for some go fast goodies, i have a 70mm accufab throttle body i have for sale and the arm has already been modified for a explorer so it is a bolt on and go.
for these trucks speed or power is all about how much you want to spend. they are a lot harder to do for the fact they weigh a ton, the computer isnt easy to tune, they exhaust is less then desired on them and thats after buying TMH's, and are as aerodynamic as a loaf of wounder bread. i know i sound bitter, but it is the truth that most dont either see or want to see.
 



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Don't forget, he wanted to stay CA smog legal. All of that is out. The accu fab throttle body is a dead givaway. The rest should go un-noticed, as long as the cam remains fairly mild. It will likely pass the smog sniffer test but not the visual. You just can't get much more than stock and remain legal here in the land of fruits and nuts.

If you try to smog and get caught with illagal components, the vehicle VIN gets logged and you go to a referee station for the rest of the vehicles life. Not even a small compression bump gets past a referee. Think NASCAR inspection of the winning vehicle.

Not trying to rain on the parade. Just providing some intel. I mean info. As mentioned before, power costs money. Just here it costs a lot more. The question is; how fast do you want to go? It looks like the OP is doing alot more then just wanting more power. Most but not all of those things are legal on a street vehicle here. Maybe he doesn't really need that much more power or maybe the truck doesn't need to be CA legal. Or maybe its an exercise to show what could be done.
 






wow. didnt realize California was that strict. sucks to be you guys. hell, up here anything goes pretty much.
 






Yep, passing smog gets more difficult every day. The CARB web site discourages even repairing a head or valves as you will likely not be in compliance. In stead, they recommend replacing with stock parts. Either new or salvaged. You see, technically, even a polish and port job is illegal as is a multi angle valve job unless it came that way from the factory.

If a referee suspected you of that he would disassemble and inspect. Best to avoid the referee station at all cost. The standard smog station or even test only station (for those of us with old vehicles or those suspected of being "gross" polluters) only sniff the tailpipe at 2 different speeds on a dyno and do a visual inspection. Mostly to make sure all the components are there. Then they do an evap system test on all none OBD II vehicles.

Make sure you keep the receipts for all those nice CARB EO parts. The list changes frequently and parts fall off. The only way to continue using the part is to have the original receipt with the CARB number on it. Also be careful the CARB number on the part remains visible and legible with wear or out it goes.
 






That is one of the best and only thing I have seen as far as these TM headers go. I had to spend an additional $75 to get the header manifold flange flat as they were in a wave of almost 1/8in in a part... I am skeptical about the D.U.I coil packs and wires. they tell you to open your gap to 0.65 and that they produce 45K of voltage. My concern is reliability and burned plugs or worse, after I add the headers, coils,wires, double platinum plugs im going to find an authorized SCT Dyno and see if I can get a custom file made.
 






That is one of the best and only thing I have seen as far as these TM headers go. I had to spend an additional $75 to get the header manifold flange flat as they were in a wave of almost 1/8in in a part... I am skeptical about the D.U.I coil packs and wires. they tell you to open your gap to 0.65 and that they produce 45K of voltage. My concern is reliability and burned plugs or worse, after I add the headers, coils,wires, double platinum plugs im going to find an authorized SCT Dyno and see if I can get a custom file made.

The claims you find about plug gaps are exaggerating, but not lying. You can open the gaps about that .010 more they suggest, and it shouldn't hurt anything. Retuning the computer would help to make the most of a change. But the stock coils are still very good.
 






Does anyone know if Crower or Edelbrock make a Torq cam that's CA emissions compliant? If not I can always swap it out - Has anyone had good results with a cam swap? If so what brand and specs if you could. I'm looking for a low end 1500-5000 cam, and if there are any other substantial gains I can get from another part please by all means throw me some info....

Also has anyone installed the intake spacer? I have heard mixed opinions - some say once installed, instant noticeability, mainly in the lower in. I have also heard it's not worth the time it takes to install it? I have owned a "Power Aid" Throttle body spacer when they were just hitting the market and the ONLY thing that the $100.00+ piece of aluminum on my 5.4L F150 did was make an annoying whistle sound depending on where the butterfly of the TBS was. Worst buy ever!I was just was interested on feedback from anyone who's done it? Or can you just swap intake manifolds like the tubular Cobra or the Cobra, or something like an Edelbrock or Trick Flow? Which of the options will have the best overall HP gains?
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Unfortunately your biggest problem is going to be the California emissions laws, which are horrible laws.

You have to figure out what will help without upsetting the emissions people, either in visual ways or testing gases.

The Cobra intakes are all GT40 intakes, and so is the Explorer, no change(all visual preference).

The computer tune is the best thing I think you can do without possibly losing something(power or emissions). I'd plan that for sure, but do it last to maximize whatever else you change.

The stock cam is the "truck roller cam", and not really that bad. It revs higher than the 302 HO's do, and that's because of the bigger GT40 heads and intake. But the 302 HO cam is the better stock cam, it's a great all around cam and also compatible with the stock type heads(springs etc). But any cam change is very hard in these trucks, you might as well pull the engine to do it(it's too hard while in the vehicle).

I'd contact a custom cam designer, like Ed Curtis. Cam tech lines will gladly "pick" one of their cams for you, don't do that. That's not impressive for them to choose one of their own off the shelf products. The cost of most OTS cams are a good $200-$250, custom will run $300-$400ish, depending on whether it's made from the same cheap steel as OTS cams(SADI is what it's called), or a billet cam(which can last forever and likely never be broken(it's way stronger)).

I think a custom cam would have the best chance to pass emissions, assuming the designer knew what he was doing for the intention to pass CA laws. I do not know what they can do for that purpose. Achieving maximum HP is different than minimizing a certain chemical output at a couple of rpm points.

But the cam designer might also know what the best choices could be for a combo to make power and meet emissions laws. Compression is your friend for HP, 9:1 is low and 10:1 is much better(premium required). Any good cam guy will need to know specifics about the exhaust, how truly bad it is, including actual sizes, number of mufflers, choke point sizes etc. Send them a picture of the stock manifolds, that will tell them a lot.

We here can suggest lots of things. But which will effect emissions negatively is all guessing here, ask a pro, not random people who will simply give you single examples("in my experience"). You need facts backed by a bunch of experience, and a cam designer is the best possible person to ask about them.
 

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I appreciate your advice, what about larger throttle body's like the nice ones from BBK paired with a intake manifold spacer? I'm awaiting for my D.U.I. full Ignition kit with coil packs and 8.8mm silicone wires

(however I don't know if i'm going to open up the gap the from the recommended Motorcraft double platinum of .054" to their recommendation of opening the gap to .065″! )

Has anyone used their product both coils wires and opened up the gap to 065″ without any issues? I am installing the TM headers this weekend along with a custom custom cold air intake, made from a BBK Cobra Kit and Silicone bends,
So Thats why I am REALLY WANTING TO KNOW ABOUT THESE INTAKE MANIFOLD SPACERS- Worth the time and money, or not enough gain for the cost of the product???

We have almost all the parts to begin, waiting on some Aluminum P-Port manifold gaskets, Jet 160 degree thermostat, EBC 3GD Series Sport Rotors matched with the "Yellow Stuff" Pads, Big shout out to Austin at VEGASDEZERTFAB - for all the Love and Support! Want to get rid of that spongy feeling of those torsion bars, and or have them "PINNED" to where its stiff as a board and can not be aligned? 2 or 4WD have the height you want with the ride quality you can only wish for!

And if your feeling a little frisky you might "Accidentally" have to swerve to not a cute bunny - and by doing so there just happened to be a nice little kicker to hit on the way home from getting groceries!

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Okay Im going to ask one last time then I'm giving up on the thought of them all together -

GT-40 spacer which I have been told I will notice an instant improvement in the pedal and the low end, which I'm searching for!


- SO Last question and I would really love some feedback from a member or two who have them or tried one before... I really appreciate it guys!

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One last thing before I have to go do real work.........

Perry McNeil the originator in fiber glass fenders here in our beautiful city of San Diego is the dad of Jason that own's fiberglass... Anyway seena few of these Raptor to Explorer conversions and well............ you tell me what you think? All that I know from experience is that no fiberglass is perfect, and the more time you - or whoever your paying to do it, if you take the time to modify, shave , cut or sand-YOUR DOORS WILL ACTUALLY OPEN WITHOUT RUBBING! Follow the "modo" YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR AND YOU WILL END UP WITH WHAT IT IS SUPPOSED TO LOOK LIKE!​
 






I have helped with installing 3 of them, and had one on my black truck. Since you have this all apart, I would say go for it.

I am not aware of any "dyno" proof, however all who installed them seemed to feel a low end improvement.

This spacer will add several cu inches of intake manifold volume while keeping heat away from the upper plennum. These things considered, I would think it definitely helps with low end grunt.

Just be sure to acquire the trick flow version as I believe it has the proper length of bolts. You might have to dig around the site here to find information on this.
 






That looks good, the pieces look like they were made right to fit the lines etc.

You can do the little things like any TB, air inlet pipes, the intakes etc, and the computer will be great with them. Only big changes will upset the PCM enough to need a new tune, like much bigger heads, big cam, or big exhaust changes. Don't change injectors unless you need them, from a very big airflow gain.

The intake spacers help a lot with heat isolation, they add a little low end to the power band by taking a hair off the top end. Be careful with the EGR pipe though, that thing is a certain specific length to fit between the parts. A new spacer will require a different EGR pipe length. Fit those part together loosely without tightening any one bolt. When they are all held by the bolts(none tight), then you snug them and tighten as needed.
 






Thanks Turdle you are always there when I need an opinion from a guy who has has more explorers and mountaineers then I have had cars.lol - CDW6212R great reminder as to the length of the egr tube as I am already installing a set of TM headers with a modified EGR tube. So again Turdle whats your take on any issues im going to run into with the modified EGR tube that needs to be used with the TM headers???
 






In the past I have had pretty good luck by using a stock type tube with the corrugated folds in it. these folds make it more flexible. Just take your time manipulating it into proper form to fit.

If you still have trouble, cut the tube and slide a piece of slightly larger tubing over the cut to lengthen it. Mark the position of the new tube, then take the whole assembly off and have an exhaust shop weld it up. With the tools and help at your disposal you should be able to do this! :thumbsup:

Your truck looks great by the way.
 






I was talking with a member of a mustang forum and he told me that Trick Flow has a complete top end kit which claims 360HP, with everything shown in the picture WILL PASS SMOG with a proper tune...? I called the tech line but they are closed but asked for a call back. The only thing I don't see on the site or on any of the parts are C.A.R.B #'s I could possibly believe that with the correct tune it would pass emissions but without a C.A.R.B Number it will immediately fail visual ( Unless you get a cool car enthusiast tech who's willing to look past visual as long as the emissions are within their parameters.) I would buy this kit in a second for the Dollar to HP ratio, but I can't afford to disassemble my top end every two years - So with fingers crossed I'm praying TRICK FLOW is going to blow my mind and tell me it has a C.A.R.B # Please God of Horsepower and everything cool for our vehicles fit the first time, come as the correct part number and please most of all cut me a break and help me build power within the guidelines of the state of California.....Amen​

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I was talking with a member of a mustang forum and he told me that Trick Flow has a complete top end kit which claims 360HP, with everything shown in the picture WILL PASS SMOG with a proper tune...? I called the tech line but they are closed but asked for a call back. The only thing I don't see on the site or on any of the parts are C.A.R.B #'s I could possibly believe that with the correct tune it would pass emissions but without a C.A.R.B Number it will immediately fail visual ( Unless you get a cool car enthusiast tech who's willing to look past visual as long as the emissions are within their parameters.) I would buy this kit in a second for the Dollar to HP ratio, but I can't afford to disassemble my top end every two years - So with fingers crossed I'm praying TRICK FLOW is going to blow my mind and tell me it has a C.A.R.B # Please God of Horsepower and everything cool for our vehicles fit the first time, come as the correct part number and please most of all cut me a break and help me build power within the guidelines of the state of California.....Amen​

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The TFS kit is popular and I'd say in an ideal vehicle it will hit the advertised numbers. Those are gross HP of course.

You have GT40P heads which require unique exhaust manifolds that do not fit normal "non P" heads well(the plug wires will hit). Changing to normal head ports would need the other kind of manifolds, plus an EGR port if that is to be kept.

Unfortunately what you find is based on a great flowing exhaust, like Mustangs typically will have. These 2nd gen Explorers have in stock form less than half the exhaust flow potential of Mustangs people know. That's why these GT40 302's have only about 200rwhp stock, yet in the same 302 Mustang car, they would be closer to 240rwhp(rated, the way they rated factory HP). That's only assuming a 15hp difference between an HO 302 and the GT40 302. The difference is more than that.

To see what you are facing as a power challenge, look at pictures of popular 302 headers for 86-95 Mustangs. Compare those to what you have, pictured above. Now measure the total area of the tailpipes, and the total area exiting the muffler(s).

These Explorers have a ton of choked off horsepower being lost, compared to all other vehicles. The TFS rating is based on a high flowing exhaust, not a single muffler system with exhaust manifold primaries which lead into each other, tiny primaries BTW.

The exhaust is free hp, concentrate on that. I don't mean free in cost, the power is there already and you just need to set it free.
 






CDW6212R you brought up an issue I completely overlooked, we all know headers for the Explorer P-Style ports are hard if not impossible to find, so trying to find a different set of headers to fit the Trick Flow heads would be a disaster again if not custom fabricated if possible costing most likely as much as the kit.

So the verdict so far is thus,

To be within the great state of California's Emission laws, I plan to do the following - Pictures Included so you guy's don't think I'm just a mouth....

-Convert transfercase to a BW4406 manual selectable 4WD unit mainly for the ability to have the options of 4-HI & 4LOW, and if I pick up some MPG that's just a bonus, and once we finish the front suspension we will have our measurement to have our rear 9" made and were figuring with 35" tall tires a set of 4.88 gears will bring it just a bit under where stock would be as far as RPM's on the freeway. Now I have heard mixed answers as far as the speed sensor pickup - This is an early model and has the ring on the output shaft, now on a 1998 is there another speed pickup in the read diff? I crawled underneath my Expo and couldn't see a plug where they normally are on the top of the diff... Can someone give me some imput on this?
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Next will be the TorqMonster Headers with full aluminum gaskets so there's hopefully no chance in hell they will leak! I had each side milled just enough to be absolutely straight! I'm taking no chances! The exhaust tick I have now, tho small drives me CRAZY! The set of TM headers I got from a great guy on this forum DID NOT have the EGR bung on the passenger side (which I was fully aware of when I bought them!), so we are going to most likely mike the tube size where the tube connects, go get a piece of pipe that's same diameter but thicker wall so we can tap it. From there find a male/male pipe thread adapter and thread that in, once sunk down were going Tig Weld the tube and fitting onto the header pipe - then figure out what modifications will be needed since I'm adding a Trick Flow Intake Manifold Spacer for a little more bottom end, from what I'm told.
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-After the headers are installed and we know we have plenty of clearance, we may or may not send them out for sandblasting and a fresh coat of ceramic, or depending on the distances from objects in the engine compartment we may thermal wrap them. But I met the coolest owner of a Local shop here in San Diego called "Powder 1" the guy's name was Chris and he spent at least 30 min's of his time showing me some of the newest thermal ceramic coatings and the various colors they now come in, very cool stuff - best part about it was his prices compared to the two other shops I checked out ( you can for sure tell an owner, from an employee - if you know what I mean! )

- Next is one of the products I am excited to see if the fitment and if the company claims are really true to their word. I'm talking about the D.U.I Screamin Demon Coil Packs and Awesome Spark Plug Wires! I don't know if I told other members but I researched this product and went to their site and found my application and learned to always check around before buying online D.U.I's price for the combo was $224.00 for the complete set of wires and coil packs, so I just was checking to see if I could get a better price from Summit to save some money on shipping but Summit's price was $379.00 - So I called and the salesmen fought back and forth with me until I sent him the direct link to the sight with the same part number - it took them to get a supervisor, then call me back and said that the company had their advertised price wrong, so then I forwarded the email from the company's salesman who sell's directly to the public to FINALLY fix the price and ship it for free. I would just buy direct from the dealer but shipping was $46.00 - So always check up on your parts against even the MFG.

- Now Back To The Real Items at Hand, there are several company's that make replacement coil packs that are said to increase the voltage for better throttle response and if your having your engine tuned a hotter or colder spark plug backed up by increased voltage, and as D.U.I claims - to set your spark plug gap to .065, which compared to my suggested gap for my Motorcraft double platinum plugs is .010 larger, not huge but if it gives the engine a more complete burn then I should see a HP increase, however I'm on the fence on what heat range to run with this set up?The thing I really like about the kit is that the wires are wrapped in the super hi-temp silicone hose, and the final thing that sealed the deal was the ends of the wires coming out at a 45 degree angle for the headers!

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- I have plenty more to post but I actually got to get to doing some real work.... Thanks for everyones help and advice, it's greatly apreciated
 






The 98 up Explorers take the speed signal(VSS) from the rear ABS sensor. So the trans speed connection is not needed for you. I have a 98 Navigator BW4406 for mine and it also has that VSS(those trucks changed in 1999). So ignore that trans VSS, or plug the hole if you can find one of those(I need one too).
 



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Then I have a real problem on my hands! I am replacing my axle with a custom 9" rear end, with 4.88 gears and a True Trac, what do I do for a pickup then? it will be way out of sync! My friend was telling me we could eliminate the ABS all together for off road, we might install A hydraulic E-Brake like the "Drifters" or actually rear independant hand brakes like a Sand Car. But I know there are a bunch of people on this site that have done the BW4406 swap, and have changed their axle ratio on the stock 8.8 or have also done a 9" swap. Can I please have some info on this please..... I'm about to place an order for a $3k rear Diff and I need to know everything I can..
 






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