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on board power house

jd4242

Explorer Addict
Joined
October 15, 2008
Messages
10,790
Reaction score
312
City, State
va beach
Year, Model & Trim Level
92explorer&94 ranger
this is going to be about my ,what im calling my on board power house.starters this is done on my 92 that has a 3" body lift,it can not be done to a truck with out it or box will hang lower than the frame rails and the tank would never fit!!i also have no spare tire or the crossmember that the spare mounted to,it has been removed when i did my hidden 3"bl hitch inside the frame.to start with i have a 220 amp alternator and a 0/0 gauge wire running to the back of truck with a 1f capacitor.the box witch is plastic(Rubbermaid)for now because i couldn't get my shop to make me an aluminum one in time for my trip.the box supports no real weight on the sides,its mounted on a frame that is bolted to two crossmembers.nothing hags low or below the frame

ok so in the box i have a second battery that is marine deep cycle(same in the front now also)4000 watt AC convertor,a AC 1hp air compressor.it fills a 8.5 gallon air tank mounted farther up between the gas tank and where the shocks mount.off the convertor i ran 2 outlets mounted in the side of the storage are with a remote turn on switch.i have two gauges mounted in the box,one tank psi and one adjustable psi to two fill hoses.to get the tank in i had to cut my dual pipes off,droop the suspension to max or remove the rear axle,remove the sway bar,remove the shocks ,drop and shim my gas tank down one inch

it works very well but its an oiless compressor and the lines get very hot.i have plans to replace it with a AC direct drive 3hp oil unit when it burns up and when i replace the box.with my tires 36x14.50 it will fill two at one time in i would say a min or two.for 31ishx10.50 i would say it will fill the whole truck in under two mins.we used it in NC last weekend and did 4 trucks in no time,including a cool down between two trucks.it will actually build pressure as you are filling your tires.its max psi is 150 and wile filling two trucks at once it didnt really get under 80psi.we also used the convertor to run 1000 watt halogen work light to set up camp,it lasted a little over two hours before it went into fail safe.i used it to run an 1400 watt oil heater at night and on high it lasted 45mins:mad:i dont think it really had a chance to get both battery's fully charged.when i get unloaded from my trip i will post a pic of it running,its not quite but its not super loud and if you keep it cover its not bad at all but i think it will get to hot so i open it up.
any ways on to the pics:D:D
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old and new
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battery barley fit under the hood
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They are wired direct right now.i had a fuse on the main wire but it won't hold a fuse large enough so i took some spare 4gauge and ran it to my alt to front battery.you can see it kind of in one of the pics..i don't know what im going to do.i don't want a switch but need something.would think i need two.one near the rear battery and one near the front battery.any suggestions?im also going to order that purge you have soon;)
 






O did i mention it all cost around the $300 range!!;)i got both deep cycles for $70.they are called a blem battery;)and ps i have a 6gal pancake tank that i will be selling for CHEAP!!it wouldn't fit so i went to 8.5gal!!hahahaha
 






Nice write up, keep the posts coming. I have been thinking of doing something like this myself.
 












They are wired direct right now.i had a fuse on the main wire but it won't hold a fuse large enough so i took some spare 4gauge and ran it to my alt to front battery.you can see it kind of in one of the pics..i don't know what im going to do.i don't want a switch but need something.would think i need two.one near the rear battery and one near the front battery.any suggestions?im also going to order that purge you have soon;)

When I do my dual battery setup I think I am going to use something like this:

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=40120

Seems like it does it all for you automatically without switches. That one is really expensive though.

EDIT: Another one is the PAC SPR200....less than 70 bucks and I think it does basically the same thing. I think I will probably go with that one.
 






When I do my dual battery setup I think I am going to use something like this:

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=40120

Seems like it does it all for you automatically without switches. That one is really expensive though.

EDIT: Another one is the PAC SPR200....less than 70 bucks and I think it does basically the same thing. I think I will probably go with that one.

What's the benefit of using that besides it won't let both battery go dead?my converter has a built in shut off when it hits 11 volts so not worried about going dead and with two deep cycles something would have to be left on for a long time to drain both.also i found even when i drained one completely dead,when i was using just one,that i let it sit for awhile and it seemed like it gained some juice enough to start my truck real quick once
 






What's the benefit of using that besides it won't let both battery go dead?

You got it, that's pretty much what it does. Basically if you drain out 1 battery you can use the other one to jumpstart yourself. Both devices also look like they detect which battery needs charging and makes sure that one gets charged first.
 






When I do my dual battery setup I think I am going to use something like this:

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=40120

Seems like it does it all for you automatically without switches. That one is really expensive though.

EDIT: Another one is the PAC SPR200....less than 70 bucks and I think it does basically the same thing. I think I will probably go with that one.

Nevermind neither one of those will work.i need something rated at at least 300amps.converter is 4000 alone and stereo is about 3500.no given neither will pull that much and or be running at the same time but one may spike that high.the converter has an amp gauge on it and i have seen it spike to 250+ i may just put a big Ass fuse in it and call it a day.everything is protected but the battery main wire.if that shorts it just will weld its self to the truck hahah
 






Nevermind neither one of those will work.i need something rated at at least 300amps.converter is 4000 alone and stereo is about 3500.no given neither will pull that much and or be running at the same time but one may spike that high.the converter has an amp gauge on it and i have seen it spike to 250+ i may just put a big Ass fuse in it and call it a day.everything is protected but the battery main wire.if that shorts it just will weld its self to the truck hahah

Your converter is 4000 amps?!?! :D I think you meant watts...it's probably somewhere around 300 amps or so. Should say somewhere in the specs.

Based on the wattage of your stereo its probably a bit less than 300 amps.

Still puts you in the same place though...you need something rated for like 350+ amps.
 






Your converter is 4000 amps?!?! :D I think you meant watts...it's probably somewhere around 300 amps or so. Should say somewhere in the specs.

Based on the wattage of your stereo its probably a bit less than 300 amps.

Still puts you in the same place though...you need something rated for like 350+ amps.

Hahah no 4000watts.that's 333 amps.yea i need something around 300-350 to be safe
 






Watts divided by voltage=amp draw;-)
 






[YouTube]p7Jq282ixGY[/YouTube]
 












but.... cars generally run at 13.6 volts, not 12, so 4000 watts draws just under 300 amps.

A 3500 watt stereo system will run at something like 1/3 of that RMS, so one generally uses caps to get the current you need at peak, so that is only 100 amps.

You could get by with a high output alternator (like 250 amps) and a few batteries, unless you think you are going to draw 4000 watts continuously on your alternator and stereo.

GOD it's a good thing you are making a couple extra ponies in your truck so you can turn your go juice into all that current you are gonna need to make.
 






but.... cars generally run at 13.6 volts, not 12, so 4000 watts draws just under 300 amps.

A 3500 watt stereo system will run at something like 1/3 of that RMS, so one generally uses caps to get the current you need at peak, so that is only 100 amps.

You could get by with a high output alternator (like 250 amps) and a few batteries, unless you think you are going to draw 4000 watts continuously on your alternator and stereo.

GOD it's a good thing you are making a couple extra ponies in your truck so you can turn your go juice into all that current you are gonna need to make.

Key word is "RUN" and maybe you missed it or over read it but i have a 220amp alt and two deep cycle marine batteries ran in parallel and a 1f capacitor for the stereo. My stereo is 3500watts and my ac converter is 4000watts.if you didn't see it all works fine,just don't have any fuses on my main line from my front battery.also i don't run the truck when i use all that stuff so I've seen my converter pull close to 200amps by itself without stereo and yes i know either won't pull that many watts all the time or also they rarely will run at the same time
 



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lol at the end. sounds like an intro to an infomercial lol


im amazed you have everything out of the truck already lol

I just finished today and was about to move my truck out the driveway and decided to shoot that vid real quick hahah only 5 days later.but you can say how well it works after the trip;)filled your tires up pretty damn fast tile the last one when i had it turned off and just letting you drain the tank for me hahah;)
 






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