opinions wanted - sell my 1997 Explorer v8 AWD 115k to buy 2010 Explorer 4.6 135k

[96eb96]

2010 V8 Explorer is a great vehicle, but that does not mean it is perfect or will not need work. It is pretty much the base F150 drivetrain of that year. For a used modern SUV, I doubt you could do better, unless you look at something like a Lexus GX, which will cost a fortune. There was one for sale up here and the seller (a dealer) wrote the transmission was replaced, but that is not typical. No reason that drivetrain can't see at least 200K, even more.

Honestly the Explorer (pre -11) has an even more reliable 6R, because they don't have that dumb circuit plate that likes to fail (not the most major repair, but getting the part is very difficult). Those later 6Rs were actually recalled and flashed so they don't drop out of gear on the highway. Those are the things that make it quite different from the ZF.

 

[ELeBlanc]

Thanks all and 96eb96 for most recent post. I'm seeing the vehicle Monday at my mechanics and almost positive I'm going to buy it. We will also go over it to see if there is anything that needs attention now. Mechanic wants me to drive it - which I will... But the purchase is about reliability and reducing future maintenance costs. Also driving a 2010 instead of 1997. I know I spent over 3k over last 3 years on my 97. Lots of new parts in undercarriage and suspension, brakes, etc. So should one of my initial costs being dropping the pan on 6r80 and replacing filter and some fluid. It's at 132k. Someone in this chain said Ford recommends this at 150k. Someone else said said they personally recommend it every 50k miles - but at 132k that shipped has sailed...

 

[96eb96]

Thanks all and 96eb96 for most recent post. I'm seeing the vehicle Monday at my mechanics and almost positive I'm going to buy it. We will also go over it to see if there is anything that needs attention now. Mechanic wants me to drive it - which I will... But the purchase is about reliability and reducing future maintenance costs. Also driving a 2010 instead of 1997. I know I spent over 3k over last 3 years on my 97. Lots of new parts in undercarriage and suspension, brakes, etc. So should one of my initial costs being dropping the pan on 6r80 and replacing filter and some fluid. It's at 132k. Someone in this chain said Ford recommends this at 150k. Someone else said said they personally recommend it every 50k miles - but at 132k that shipped has sailed...

I have an 11 F150 with the 6.2L engine and I have service records for it. 6R80 trans, same as the Explorer except for some electronics. First trans service at 125k. I got it at 186k, the fluid was pretty black, it was used for towing at capacity, I got 10 quarts out of it (let it drain overnight), cracked the cooler too, and it shifts like brand new now. I think 150K is what ford suggests, but any towing would reduce that. Use only Mercon LV or what is suggested by Ford. No universal products.

If you are really worried you can add Lubeguard Red, I added one bottle to mine. It cleans up the solenoids a bit. In the 90s I was friends with a volume trans rebuilder in Brooklyn, he swore by it. Each unit out the door got a bottle. Run it by your mechanic and do your research. Totally optional, but will not hurt anything. Also, Have your mechanic check for leaks at the bulkhead connector.

 

[ELeBlanc]

Thanks for more info. Again I'm 0% mechanic and 100% Explorer Forum reader. There seem to be lots of people who don't want to service a transmission that has not been serviced and has high miles. This may include my mechanic. I don't expect this one has done any towing - but I will ask! Your post makes me more comfortable having them drop the pan...

 

[Turdle]

@BrooklynBay possible chance to make some wages here?

 

[Mbrooks420]

@BrooklynBay possible chance to make some wages here?

I read that “wagers”. The bet wasn’t obvious, but I’m always down to throw some money away.

 

[Josh P]

I’m always down to throw some money away.

Someone might need the cash slightly more than you.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Since you already have the 97 for a few years, have a few thousand invested in it, and know it pretty well, why invest in another vehicle not knowing how reliable it is or how much it will need as far as repairs? If you're the one doing the repairs, then you could gamble on it, but giving it to a mechanic for everything is expensive plus you'll be without a working vehicle while it's there.

 

[J_C]

^ I agree with that but feel like it's possibly at least as much of a money pit to end up with a less desirable vehicle to keep the '97 instead of moving on. Even spending thousands, there is still much left that is 25 years old.

How well does he trust the mechanic in assessing it?! At this price I wonder, as the mechanic could just buy and flip it himself, be in even a better position to do so if he supplies the labor to do XYZ to get it in better shape for sale. Then again he could already have too many oars in the water and this one has to slip away...

The big question is why is that model year at that lower than market price.

 

[ELeBlanc]

^ I agree with that but feel like it's possibly at least as much of a money pit to end up with a less desirable vehicle to keep the '97 instead of moving on. Even spending thousands, there is still much left that is 25 years old.

How well does he trust the mechanic in assessing it?! At this price I wonder, as the mechanic could just buy and flip it himself, be in even a better position to do so if he supplies the labor to do XYZ to get it in better shape for sale. Then again he could already have too many oars in the water and this one has to slip away...

The big question is why is that model year at that lower than market price.

and I have no answer to that... Probably never will...

 

[joney]

Have had this 97 v8 AWD with 115k for 3 years (and had it's twin for 3 years before that until I crashed it into a pole). Key Point - I don't do any work on cars - only my mechanic of last 30 years. Previously owned POS 2002 4.0 that suffered bot failed tranny (I replaced) then failed timing chain. Backed up from Gen 3 to Gen 2 V8s..

I live in Brooklyn and do weekly 240 mile night time trips between Brooklyn and State College PA almost all on I80. Being offered a 2010 4.6 4WD with 135k for $3500. My mechanics shop has been servicing this vehicle last year and a half. Just replaced fuel pump. Carfax shows only a FL registration and my mechanic tells me it goes back and forth to FL frequently. Virtually no service history in Carfax. I haven't seen the 2010 yet.

I've put alot of money into my 97. Being 25 years old seems like a kind of continuous stream. This week the support for the glass hatch stopped working. Mechanic said $100 to reolace both. Two weeks ago when traveling from NY to PA pulled into a gas station, filled itr up and turned the key and nothing at all. No clicking, no panel lights. I turned on headlights and walked to front and also no lights. Got back in car to call my mechanic and the headlights were on! Car started! I drove the rest of the way straight through. Conclusion is maybe I didn't have it appropriate in PARK. I've had and still have trouble witrh this. Sometimes it looks like it's in D but it's not...

I've put thousands into the 97 over last two and a half years. None on Engine, Trans, Drive train. Lot's underneath the car including suspension.

Little worried that the 2010 has a 6R80 tranny which is sealed.. I'd like to keep this for 3-4 years... 2010 is 13 years younger... Opinions please...

I get the 13 yrs. younger - as in plastics, seals etc. that dry out/ crack. Just curious, vehicle goes to FL, has mechanic ever checked for flood damage so far may have gone to the beach? Other than that, you're in NY and possible rust on your 97 or the newer one, often determines how long it will last.

 

[94Eddie]

Thanks all and 96eb96 for most recent post. I'm seeing the vehicle Monday at my mechanics and almost positive I'm going to buy it. We will also go over it to see if there is anything that needs attention now. Mechanic wants me to drive it - which I will... But the purchase is about reliability and reducing future maintenance costs. Also driving a 2010 instead of 1997. I know I spent over 3k over last 3 years on my 97. Lots of new parts in undercarriage and suspension, brakes, etc. So should one of my initial costs being dropping the pan on 6r80 and replacing filter and some fluid. It's at 132k. Someone in this chain said Ford recommends this at 150k. Someone else said said they personally recommend it every 50k miles - but at 132k that shipped has sailed...

I say one of the first maintenance items would be a pan drop and filter replacement. The reason is the transmission is one of the most expensive items to replace. Also, the 6R80 with 132k miles on it is probably good but needs service badly. While they are there you should have them drain and refill the transfer case. It is simple to do and only takes a quart of fluid. Then going forward do a pan drop and filter change every 50k miles. It wouldn't hurt to do a full fluid swap over the first 5k-10k miles. Also, the plugs need changed if they are original. I changed mine at 120k miles and the gap was twice what is spec'ed due to wear of the center electrode.

 

[Miles2022]

Thanks all and 96eb96 for most recent post. I'm seeing the vehicle Monday at my mechanics and almost positive I'm going to buy it. We will also go over it to see if there is anything that needs attention now. Mechanic wants me to drive it - which I will... But the purchase is about reliability and reducing future maintenance costs. Also driving a 2010 instead of 1997. I know I spent over 3k over last 3 years on my 97. Lots of new parts in undercarriage and suspension, brakes, etc. So should one of my initial costs being dropping the pan on 6r80 and replacing filter and some fluid. It's at 132k. Someone in this chain said Ford recommends this at 150k. Someone else said said they personally recommend it every 50k miles - but at 132k that shipped has sailed...

If it was me, I would stick with what you have and plowed money into. You know you own vehicle and what shape it's in. A newer shiny vehicle is tempting, but it may just fall flat on its face as soon as you drive it off the lot.

 

[XploderPhil]

Not sure if I missed this one, did you check to see what the difference in insurance is?

 

[Jason94sport]

2010 V8 4X4 for $3500? That's a steal!
A long as the body was ok & no major rust problems, I'd jump at that.
As great as the older X's are, can't fight time. My 2002's paint & clear are peeling to bare metal almost & rust starting. My windshield is leaking in rain. But runs fine.
Edit if yo don't buy it I would...I can fly into JFK.

 

[ELeBlanc]

DOES THE 2010 4.6 3V HAVE 6R80 OR 6R60 OR COULD BE EITHER? FINDING CONTRADICTORY INFO ON THE WEB?

 

[1.8TTony]

DOES THE 2010 4.6 3V HAVE 6R80 OR 6R60 OR COULD BE EITHER? FINDING CONTRADICTORY INFO ON THE WEB?

If it's a 5 speed, it has a 5R55.

If it's a 6 speed, it has a 6R80.

 

[ELeBlanc]

Went to the 2010 Explorer Owner's Manual on Ford Website and it says in 2010 only trans with v8 is 6r80...
Told mechanic i'd buy the car... Anyone in NY or PA interested in white 1997 5.0 AWD with 118k?

 

[94Eddie]

DOES THE 2010 4.6 3V HAVE 6R80 OR 6R60 OR COULD BE EITHER? FINDING CONTRADICTORY INFO ON THE WEB?

It is a 6R80. It replaced the 6R60 in the 2009-2010 model years.

 

[RoyKelly2]

Went to the 2010 Explorer Owner's Manual on Ford Website and it says in 2010 only trans with v8 is 6r80...
Told mechanic i'd buy the car... Anyone in NY or PA interested in white 1997 5.0 AWD with 118k?

Not in PA or NY, but what model and how much are you asking?