explain how, running 12.4v constant to an amp is a bandaid, vs with running 12-14 volts unfiltered.... and when the base line hits, and voltages dips sub 10v from amp draw.
Ok strap in Waskly my boy... I will give you more than you could have ever wanted to know why Caps are nothing but a band-aid...
1.) Let's first clarify what each part of the Explorer's electrical system does:
Battery: stores energy ONLY to start the truck the next time, don't get it twisted or confused. The ONLY purpose of the battery is to store enough energy to START the truck the next time you want to drive PERIOD!!!
Alternator: runs the electrical system of the ENTIRE truck once the battery has lit the sequence off. FACT. Alternator does all the work. No way around it.
Cables: transfer voltage and amperage from the battery to the starter and the alternator back to the battery to complete the next charge cycle. The vehicles electronics (all
LOADS) are tied to the charging point of the battery so the ALTERNATOR can both run the Truck AND charge the battery IF and ONLY if there is voltage & amperage LEFT OVER, after running all those
LOADS.... Notice
LOAD is in
BOLD twice in one sentence, this is important.
2.) All aspects of the OE electrical system are a compromise to get the basic job done with what is there from the factory. PERIOD. No extra lights, neon, stereo, CB radios, or 12v vibrators for the girlfriend on the long road trips.
3.) ANYTHING you add to the truck, short of an improved or additional alternator is a LOAD on the OE alternator & battery. PERIOD end of conversation. An amp = new load, a cap = new load, an electric cooler = load. If the OE alternator cannot keep up, any new item is just additional stress.
4.) A new battery maybe, indeed, more resilient to constant draw, like an Optima, SVR, or whatever. But the fact is that the battery is being called on to do what its not intended. YES adding another battery is JUST another load to the Alternator...
Are you seeing that the ALTERNATOR is the key in this discussion?
If the OE alternator is rated at 110 amps & the vehicle is pulling 90 to begin with, then (2) amps pulling 10-40 amps peak EACH will cause a deficit. Simple math.
Capacitors in the automotive-audio world are likely the single greatest marketing joke EVER accomplished. Most lack the internal design qualities (ESR & damping factor) to even remotely do what they claim. If a cap is to be purchased, its after proper alternator sizing, battery layout, proper cabling (Big 3 & proper grounds) and then & only then go big or go home... 50-100uF of cap is a minimum to make any REAL change AFTER the entire electrical system has been brought up to snuff.
Bottom line: Stiffening caps, as you find them in 99% of the audio shops or online are nothing more than another load on your alternator. Don't waste the $$
Rob
<MECP cert. installer, IASCA Cert. Install & SQ Judge, 25+ year veteran to the car audio industry>