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How to: Overhead console display fix - 2nd Gen

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Worked like a charm!

Thanks Thallarsen, The problem was the same component, 510. Less than an hour to fix it with your detailed directions, and now I look like the hero!
 






98 Ford Explorer - The fix worked great.

Mine does NOT have a moon roof.

Open the compartment that houses the garage door opener and there are two screws. Remove the screws and then gently pull the unit down, there are two clips in the front.

Unplug the wiring clip and you have the whole thing out. You do need a magnifying glass to actually see the breaks.

Don't forget to set the correct VAR and then do the calibration.
 






May have been asked, but - Mine turns on when I start, and the reset (?) screen is on. When I press mode, it turns off and I get nothing.
 






Compass zone adjustment

1. Determine which magnetic zone you are in by referring to the zone map.

2. Press and hold the MODE control until VAR appears in the display, then release. The display should show the current zone number.

3. Press the MODE control until the desired zone number appears. The display will flash and then return to normal operation. The zone is now updated.

Compass calibration adjustment

Perform this adjustment in an open area free from steel structures and high voltage lines:

Press and hold the MODE control until CAL appears in the display (approximately eight seconds) and release.

Drive the vehicle slowly (less than 5 km/h [3 mph]) in circles until CAL indicator turns off in about 2–3 complete circles.
 






How to remove the overhead console

I have a XLT 5.0 2000. without a sunroof.
How can I remove the Overhead console ?
MK
 






As Chumlee from Pawn Stars would say: Awesome. It took longer to get the console out of the truck than to repair the breaks at 510. One of the screws didn't want to back out so I had to slip a flat tip screwdriver under (above? since it is attached to the ceiling?). Didn't need a magnifying glass as one side of the resistor was popped up. Didn't have a soldering iron, but rather a 100/140W soldering gun. If you are not an accomplished solderer, do not attempt this with such a hot tool, you'll cook something.

Heremite,
Mine is an '03 w/o sunroof and there are 2 screws inside the garage door opener cover. Removed those and pulled the console down, there are several spring loaded clippy things that are holding it up there once the two screws are removed. Might be the same for your truck.
 






Let me start out by describing my specific overhead display: Mine is in a '99 Explorer Limited with sunroof. The display provides digital compass bearings and temp. The housing also has the two 'spot' lights for driver and passenger.
fix1.jpg
If yours isn't exactly the same, but similar, I'll bet that the problem is identical to mine. This problem is related to solder failure, similar to the Mach radio display problem.

It's a resistor (or capacitor) that due to considerable heat, eventually loses its soldered contact at the board. You can confirm that this is the culprit by firmly pressing the button, thus putting slight pressure on the board housed inside the display housing. If the display fades in slightly then goes out - or stays on for a few hours/days, then goes back out, you have likely tweaked the board slightly and brought temporary contact to the problematic resistor.

The fix will take less than an hour if you're comfortable with soldering. If you've never soldered before, this may not be a good fix to learn on, because it is such a small component. I suggest finding an electronics guy to resolder the component. It's such a minor job that it shouldn't be much at all.

Anyway, what you'll need:
  1. Torx T-10 and driver.
  2. Soldering iron capable of small soldering repairs
  3. Desoldering braid (I didn't really need it, but for the perfectionist...)
  4. Good solder for small electronic work (silver based?) Radio Shack is a good resource.
  5. Magnifying glass. Preferably the kind with the 'helping hands' alligator clips, in which you can position the glass over the work. You'll need two hands for the solder.
Here are the steps:
1. Remove the overhead console. This is done by pulling back the trim around the sunroof (if equipped) just enough to expose the black tab
fix2.jpg
This tab holds the rear portion of the console in place when tucked behind the sunroof trim (since I don't know the non-sunroof application, you're on your own here). Mine had some sticky adhesive that keeps the trim in place. The console should drop down slightly at this point.
2. Gently pull on both sides at about the middle of the console. It's held in by two pressure clips. It should pop out of the roof fixture without too much force.
fix3.jpg
3. Disconnect the two harness connectors (possibly only one if not equipped with a sunroof).
fix4.jpg
4. Working on a flat surface, remove the Torx screws (11 total for sunroof models). There's no need to remove the two rearmost screws on the black plastic bracket, or the two screws holding the harness plug receptacle (Connector 1 - sunroof models).
fix5.jpg
5. Lift the black plastic insert housing the light bezel and buttons from the console surround.
fix6.jpg
The spotlights and temp/compass display board come out as one unit, as they are attached with connectors.
fix7.jpg
6. Unplug the connector from the white display housing
fix8.jpg
7. Using a small screwdriver, pry around each of the four retainers that hold the white plastic cover in place over the black bottom housing.
fix9.jpg
8. After lifting the white plastic cover from the black bottom housing, you'll be able to remove the circuit board with the display glass. Take care not to bend the display glass.
fix10.jpg
9. Now that you have the board removed, you can identify the failed component. With a magnifying glass, carefully check the integrity and the solders at each end of the resistors labeled "510". This is where I found the failure. Yours is likely at one or both of these. This photo is a closeup. Note that these resistors are only about 1/4" end to end.
fix11.jpg
10. As you can see, I'm not a master solderer, but it worked. There was one resistor that was clearly broken from it's original solder, but the one next to it wasn't looking too stable, so I resoldered both. These little suckers get pretty hot when the display is operating normally, so make sure that your solder is good. This is where you take your time, and make sure that you have a stable solder at all resoldered points. If it's not such a good solder, it will fail before too long. You can test your repair by plugging in the connector to the board, then plugging that directly to the harness in the car. If you get a display, you've fixed the problem!

11. Reassemble in reverse order. One thing to note, is that the small spotlights' housing have two small tabs that fit into the black 'center' housing that has the buttons, light cover, etc. You'll need to fit the spotlights into the housing first and foremost before reassembling the console.

12. Good Luck!

Although this worked for me and all others who tried it and got back to me, I can't guarantee that it will work for you. So attempt this at your own risk. Please post to the thread to let others know whether this worked for you.
Thanks Thallarsen !

Excellent description.
It worked for me.

Heremite
 






Just wanted to give my thanks. I took mine apart (2000 Explorer Limited) and everything looked fine. I decided what the heck I have it apart anyway, put some solder on all 4 points and its works great now.
 






After reading all the success stories, I'm feeling pretty dumb. I still don't have the console out yet.

I can't figure out how to unplug the connector labeled #1 in the diagrams - the flat one, not the brown square one.

I see a black square "rod" in the center of one side, but can't get it to do anything. It looks like there might be tabs on opposite sides, but both pressing in and spreading them hasn't seemed to release anything.

Can someone help? Is there a latch? If so, where, and does it get compressed or spread? Does the connector pull straight off or rock from one side to another?

Thanks in advance.
 






Connector 1

It's hard to tell from the pictures, and my 99 does not have a sunroof. Connector 1 looks to me like the connector for the sunroof switch.

I'm wondering about that screw in the lower left corner of connector 1 in the picture. Have you tried removing it to see if it releases the connector?
 






It's hard to tell from the pictures, and my 99 does not have a sunroof. Connector 1 looks to me like the connector for the sunroof switch.

I'm wondering about that screw in the lower left corner of connector 1 in the picture. Have you tried removing it to see if it releases the connector?

I hadn't tried that because of the following that was in caption #4. where the console is already out and being disassembled:

"There's no need to remove the two rearmost screws on the black plastic bracket, or the two screws holding the harness plug receptacle (Connector 1 - sunroof models)."

Thanks for the reply though. Someone with a sunroof hopefully will help me out soon.
 






I would take the screw out, worse case scenario? It doesn't do any good.
 






Thank you so much! This worked for me. Mine wasn't working for about 2 years and now it is up and running.
 






I haven't actually tried the fix yet, but this is exactly what my console looks like so I'm going to give it a shot. I'll let you know how I make out. Thanks for posting this....especially for free. Before I joined this forum, I was getting frustrated with all the offers to give me the steps, once I gave them a credit card number.
 






Funny, nobody was charging for this fix before I started this thread more than 4 years ago. That's because I hadn't discovered the fix yet ;)
 






Scroll up to post #170
 






just fixed my display,thank you for the write up .this is why i love explorer forum .
 






Let me start out by describing my specific overhead display: Mine is in a '99 Explorer Limited with sunroof. The display provides digital compass bearings and temp. The housing also has the two 'spot' lights for driver and passenger.
fix1.jpg
If yours isn't exactly the same, but similar, I'll bet that the problem is identical to mine. This problem is related to solder failure, similar to the Mach radio display problem.

It's a resistor (or capacitor) that due to considerable heat, eventually loses its soldered contact at the board. You can confirm that this is the culprit by firmly pressing the button, thus putting slight pressure on the board housed inside the display housing. If the display fades in slightly then goes out - or stays on for a few hours/days, then goes back out, you have likely tweaked the board slightly and brought temporary contact to the problematic resistor.

The fix will take less than an hour if you're comfortable with soldering. If you've never soldered before, this may not be a good fix to learn on, because it is such a small component. I suggest finding an electronics guy to resolder the component. It's such a minor job that it shouldn't be much at all.

Anyway, what you'll need:
  1. Torx T-10 and driver.
  2. Soldering iron capable of small soldering repairs
  3. Desoldering braid (I didn't really need it, but for the perfectionist...)
  4. Good solder for small electronic work (silver based?) Radio Shack is a good resource.
  5. Magnifying glass. Preferably the kind with the 'helping hands' alligator clips, in which you can position the glass over the work. You'll need two hands for the solder.
Here are the steps:
1. Remove the overhead console. This is done by pulling back the trim around the sunroof (if equipped) just enough to expose the black tab
fix2.jpg
This tab holds the rear portion of the console in place when tucked behind the sunroof trim (since I don't know the non-sunroof application, you're on your own here). Mine had some sticky adhesive that keeps the trim in place. The console should drop down slightly at this point.
2. Gently pull on both sides at about the middle of the console. It's held in by two pressure clips. It should pop out of the roof fixture without too much force.
fix3.jpg
3. Disconnect the two harness connectors (possibly only one if not equipped with a sunroof).
fix4.jpg
4. Working on a flat surface, remove the Torx screws (11 total for sunroof models). There's no need to remove the two rearmost screws on the black plastic bracket, or the two screws holding the harness plug receptacle (Connector 1 - sunroof models).
fix5.jpg
5. Lift the black plastic insert housing the light bezel and buttons from the console surround.
fix6.jpg
The spotlights and temp/compass display board come out as one unit, as they are attached with connectors.
fix7.jpg
6. Unplug the connector from the white display housing
fix8.jpg
7. Using a small screwdriver, pry around each of the four retainers that hold the white plastic cover in place over the black bottom housing.
fix9.jpg
8. After lifting the white plastic cover from the black bottom housing, you'll be able to remove the circuit board with the display glass. Take care not to bend the display glass.
fix10.jpg
9. Now that you have the board removed, you can identify the failed component. With a magnifying glass, carefully check the integrity and the solders at each end of the resistors labeled "510". This is where I found the failure. Yours is likely at one or both of these. This photo is a closeup. Note that these resistors are only about 1/4" end to end.
fix11.jpg
10. As you can see, I'm not a master solderer, but it worked. There was one resistor that was clearly broken from it's original solder, but the one next to it wasn't looking too stable, so I resoldered both. These little suckers get pretty hot when the display is operating normally, so make sure that your solder is good. This is where you take your time, and make sure that you have a stable solder at all resoldered points. If it's not such a good solder, it will fail before too long. You can test your repair by plugging in the connector to the board, then plugging that directly to the harness in the car. If you get a display, you've fixed the problem!

11. Reassemble in reverse order. One thing to note, is that the small spotlights' housing have two small tabs that fit into the black 'center' housing that has the buttons, light cover, etc. You'll need to fit the spotlights into the housing first and foremost before reassembling the console.

12. Good Luck!

Although this worked for me and all others who tried it and got back to me, I can't guarantee that it will work for you. So attempt this at your own risk. Please post to the thread to let others know whether this worked for you.

:salute:Thanks I did this and it worked for me. I felt like a real computer geek with my magnifying glass and iron doing micro surgery. Ha
 



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Another Satified 'Customer'!

Just wanted to add my thanks! :thumbsup:

Your detailed instructions worked like a champ on my 2001 Mercury Mountaineer. After a year with a blank overhead console, it's great to have it working again. I had one bad solder joint on the 510 resistors, but soldered all 4 connections just to be sure, using a 30 watt soldering pencil and regular, (not-silver) small-diameter solder.

While I was in there, I also repaired my two map lights which have been out for a couple of years. The bulbs are twist-locked into a "socket" powered by thick copper foils. The foils had oxidized where the bulbs makes contact. The fix was simply to burnish the contacts on the bulbs then applied a thin layer of solder to the foils where the bulbs make contact.

I have lights, temperature and compass again, yeah!

W. Wind
 






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