overheating but no loss of fluids? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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overheating but no loss of fluids?

Joined
January 11, 2011
Messages
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City, State
Carpinteria, California
Year, Model & Trim Level
'91 Sport
I have a 91 2 door with a v6 4.0 and a 5 speed 4x4 trans on the back. I live up in the mountains and as I was climbing the hill the temp gauge started rising. This may sound typical but it isn't normal for this car. When I arrived home the gauge was about half way(normally sits just below 1/4) and I shut it off. I popped the hood and checked the coolant reservoir, it was good, and the oil level was full. why did it suddenly decide to overheat? it does leak some oil around the pan but the dipstick showed full.
 



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Bad fan clutch?

Thermostat stuck?
 






I live up in the mountains and as I was climbing the hill the temp gauge started rising.
Sounds normal to me. Half way isn't overheating. Keep in mind the gauges are not precision instruments.
 






"This may sound typical but it isn't normal for this car. When I arrived home the gauge was about half way(normally sits just below 1/4) "


it is normal for the gauge to move slowly up until the thermostat opens, which is not over half way. I know how my car works and that is not how it is supposed to work.
 












Temp sending switch, fan clutch,....Just because it's been "normal" for you doesn't mean it has been right. Something may have just changed with age & use.
If it's really a concern....Go through the system, new tstat, clutch, cap, fluid/flush.
 






Temp sending switch, fan clutch,....Just because it's been "normal" for you doesn't mean it has been right. Something may have just changed with age & use.
If it's really a concern....Go through the system, new tstat, clutch, cap, fluid/flush.

Ditto this advice. Been down that road so often I know every turn and pothole.

1. Fan Clutch: The fan should NOT spin "freely". There should be a fair amount of resistance when turning by hand.

2. TSTSAT: If you can't remember the last time it's been changed, it should be changed.

3. Radiator Cap: Easy and cheap replacement; again, if you can't remember the last time it was changed then replace it.

4. Radiator Flush: There are a number of posts on how to do this. I'd recommend getting the kit from the AP that provides a "garden" hose connection. It makes flushing the radiator easier and complete.

5. Temperature Sender: This one is critical IMO. Incorrect reading means your asking for trouble.

6. Belt/Belt Tensioner: Even a small amount of slip can result in the fan not turning the revs it needs to keep the motor cool.

6. Radiator: Sounds basic but check for debris that is blocking air flow. Overheated one time on I95 in North Carolina. Popped the hood and checked everything but blocked airflow. State trooper asked what I was using the cardboard for on the radiator. Small piece about 3 inches square but was enough to overheat my truck and embarrass the heck out of me. I was surprised I didn't get a "stupid" sign/ticket.

I know what your thinking, at least I think you do. All that checking and replacing for just a slight abnormal temp reading? Yes. Most will agree. These vehicles don't like to overheat and when they do, other more costly issues are just around the corner.
 






Forgot about these.
Air in the cooling system can cause a somewhat erratic temp reading. There are a number of posts on how to "clear"/"burp" the system clean of air.

When was the last time the water pump was replaced? When pumps go bad they usually start to leak telling you their bad. However, impellers can degrade over time and result in less water being pushed. The bearing can start to show it's age by having a bit more friction and again result in less water being moved.
 






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