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P/S Flush?

2001ExpSport

Elite Explorer
Joined
July 23, 2000
Messages
3,343
Reaction score
1
City, State
Chicago, Il
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Sport
Anyone heard of a power steering flush at 60k? Out of all the cars I have owned, this is the first to hit over 60k. Any advice on this will be helpful.

What about the belt?

Reason I am asking is I went for an oil change at a local shop and the guy was like, you need all this **** blah blah blah power steering flush...blah blah blah....new belt...blah blah blah....piston return springs...yada yada yada.

You know how they are....:rolleyes:
 



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I do a power steering flush every 25,000 miles along with a coolant flush, but I am very picky about my Sport. There are a few ways to do this, just do a search on it. Yes, replace the belt at 60,000 miles, it's better to be safe then sorry. I have never heard of a piston spring, but maybe someone from the board does.
 






The piston return spring is an old joke...it's along the lines of carburater chains.

Thanks
 






LOL

Glad I could help
 






I'm interested in flushing out my power steering fluid. It's not exactly a choice color. If y'all figure it out, clue us in!

-Justin
 












I like to use a turkey baster and empty the reservoir and fill it with clean fluid. Then turn the steering wheel left to right several times. Repeat this until the fluid is clean. I like to use synthetic, but you can use mercon V.
 






Does the synthetic help lighten the steering effort? How about the grunting noise on tight left turns? I have Mercon V put in with the baster method, but the grunting and the effort don't seem to be of help compared to the Mercon III factory-filled one.

Thanks.
 






i myself just suck the fluid out with something and refill it. then turn the wheel lock to lock a few times or drive around. and i just repeat the process until it is the color matches the new stuff
 






I wonder which brand power sterring fluid works best? such as Prestone, STP, etc...

Also noted that the "stop leak" additive... would that help? I've heard from some said that such additive doesnt always do the job to stop leaks so forth. Any suggestion would be helpful thanks :)
 






Start from what's specified for your vehicle. Aftermarket is okay but be sure it's the same type needed. It's all basically hydraulic fluid. The difference between types is viscosity, lubricity, detergency, and seal compatibility. D/M ATF is ~$1.25/qt or you can buy into some marketers pitch for super synth earwax that may flow better the first 2 minutes for Arctic residents. Otherwise p/s fluid is the least important underhood fluid to be worried about. Keep it clean, water free, and you can get along with the cheap stuff.

About the p/s stop-leak... These are simple carrier oils with seal softening/swelling agents designed as a bandaid. If the leak is from a seal and the product works, great, but plan on really fixing things or turning over the vehicle. Don't add them if you don't have leaks as then you're getting into unnecessary blending, and weekend chemists we are not. :)

Dave
 






I flush the fluid out of my 1996 by disconnecting the rubber hose down at the cooler on the steering rack. I let gravity take its course, reconnect it, fill 'er up and bleed the system.
 






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