P0172, P0174, P0300, P0301-3, P0316 after summer vacation

[codysmith105]

Engine is back in, it turned over very easily but we didn't run it long at all.

We're getting a low oil pressure indication, could be a number of things, we're working on it. No check engine light yet.

 

[codysmith105]

Had a low oil pressure indication, turns out we ripped the wire going to the oil sending unit and completely didn't notice / forgot to plug it in. A trip to AutoZone to get a new connector and a crimp connector later and we're in business on that end.

But another issue has popped up. P0351 and a not-happy engine. We think we've got a bad electrical connection either at the coil pack or PCM. Let's hope that neither are damaged and that it's just a stupid dirty connector or something. It's been raining the last few days, so it's also slightly possible that the coil pack encountered a small amount of water. I think once we get this last thing done, plus a handful of very very small items we should be in good shape.

 

[donalds]

Just gonna put this out there firing order
It happens to everyone at some point

 

[codysmith105]

P0351 is hanging around, even after replacing the coil pack. On the old pack which is probably good I wasn't getting spark between the pack and the plug wire. Not sure what to do about that.

The power steering pump is pissed off atm. Making a hell of a grumble noise, We're pretty sure it's air in the system.

 

[donalds]

Power steering pump will make that noise when it has air in it for sure take a look at the wire harness that plugs into the coil pack
may be a bad plug or plug wire I assume you used the old plug for a test

 

[Littleant]

Cody does the engine start? Did you clear the code from the computer. As for the p/s pump i believe it is air. You can try cracking the line and turn the steering wheel from stop to stop. But before that just too off the fluid and without cracking just turn the wheel stop to stop and keep the fluid up. That is all I ever had to do to get it out.

 

[donalds]

I think he got it to start how else can he hear the whining ps pump

 

[Littleant]

Donald I'm getting old and it's cold up here below zero temps. Brain frozen. Now what was I saying??

 

[codysmith105]

Engine turned over OKish but starts to rumble hard, we've confirmed no spark on #1, we suspect no spark on #4 or #5 as well (whatever the other one on that coil is). We're thinking it's electrical, not sure I like where this is going. Either the wiring harness is ****ed up somewhere which is going to royally suck or the PCM blew something and needs replaced and reprogrammed (which is also going to royally suck). Am I wrong?

I loaned my multi-meter to a friend, regretting that ATM, working on getting it back.

 

[Littleant]

Cody you did not have this problem before removing the engine correct? Try disconnecting the pos and negative terminals then use a jumper wire connect both cables together and leave on about 15 minutes. Cover battery with a rag so the cables DO NOT touch the battery. Recheck all connections. I cannot see how you would have damaged the PCM

 

[donalds]

Unplug the ecu and main engine wiring harness and plug them back in May be a bad connection

 

[codysmith105]

We just got done testing all the coil wires on the harness. None short to ground and all have continuity between both female connectors on the harness. I have the Ford Service DVD so I have access to the diagrams and pinouts.

Try disconnecting the pos and negative terminals then use a jumper wire connect both cables together and leave on about 15 minutes.

This was probably bad advice. I only have one set of keys and I'm pretty sure this erased the keys transponder from the PCM, triggering the anti-theft, meaning the car won't even attempt to start now.

Sigh, guess I call Ford (or a locksmith) on Monday and figure out how the **** I can get the key reprogrammed. Dad flies back Monday morning so I guess I'm SOL if anything else serious happens.

EDIT: I'm not even sure it's the anti-theft, the battery is reading 12.3v, and the anti-theft light goes off in aux. Keyless entry still works (the keyfob) but the car absolutely refuses to even attempt to start. Like the starter isn't running, can't hear the fuel pump, etc.

EDIT2: It's a brand new battery too.

 

[donalds]

Cody you did not have this problem before removing the engine correct? Try disconnecting the pos and negative terminals then use a jumper wire connect both cables together and leave on about 15 minutes. Cover battery with a rag so the cables DO NOT touch the battery. Recheck all connections. I cannot see how you would have damaged the PCM

We just got done testing all the coil wires on the harness. None short to ground and all have continuity between both female connectors on the harness. I have the Ford Service DVD so I have access to the diagrams and pinouts.



This was probably bad advice. I only have one set of keys and I'm pretty sure this erased the keys transponder from the PCM, triggering the anti-theft, meaning the car won't even attempt to start now.

Sigh, guess I call Ford (or a locksmith) on Monday and figure out how the **** I can get the key reprogrammed. Dad flies back Monday morning so I guess I'm SOL if anything else serious happens.

EDIT: I'm not even sure it's the anti-theft, the battery is reading 12.3v, and the anti-theft light goes off in aux. Keyless entry still works (the keyfob) but the car absolutely refuses to even attempt to start. Like the starter isn't running, can't hear the fuel pump, etc.

EDIT2: It's a brand new battery too.

It will not reset your key or do any damage

 

[codysmith105]

I've figured out that it's not the anti-theft system, but I have absolutely lost the ability to start the car after having done this.

I have a theory after spending about four hours going through schematics. I think I may have blown the F1.12 fuse that controls both the starter and ignition system.

I there is a short somewhere, and I think the PCM might have been protecting the circuit which of course I defeated when I reset it. IDK, when I get up tomorrow (today in like a few hours) I'll check the fuse.

 

[codysmith105]

OK, good news everyone. Car starts.

After a metric ****load of troubleshooting, including fuse F1.12, F2.29, the relay, several voltage and resistance readings later (we're an EE and a CS pretending to remotely understand cars here), we finally realized that connector C110? Was the issue.

Right before jumping the terminals we were messing around with the PCM connections and apparently we pulled on this guy just enough to unseat it but not enough to notice. It's clip is broken of course so it's free to move.

One small push on it, and an entire day wasted and the car is now back to starting. I'm a fan.

P0351 still present, but now that we've fully strapped our EE ass-kicking boots on we've managed to find a short on the capacitor line that comes off the coil pack. This is likely our fault. We just need to find the source of the issue and hopefully we're good.

We've also got something wrong with the passenger side exhaust fitting. IDK, it's smoking after a short test drive so that's probably not good.

 

[codysmith105]

Alright excellent news friends!

Long story short, two bent PCM pins (which according to the schematics do nothing on the 4.0L but let's ignore that for now) were discovered when I decided to remove the PCM for inspection after we thoroughly diagnosed literally everything else. Dad didn't want to touch the PCM, you know... ****ing computer, grumble, grumble... I'm used to bending pins back on the good old PC processors that used to have pins on them so these huge guys were no problem for me.

I was really disappointed when I looked up their functions just to find that they were all un-used, but nonetheless fixing the pins fixed the P0351 and returned my car to a "firing on all cylinders" state (pun intended).

Only code is P1000 which is expected and will go away once I drive it longer. Power steering pump is almost purged of air (just a little left at the extremes) and that exhaust problem is a lot less pronounced now. It's probably still an issue as no fumes should be getting out, but I'm happy to deal with that later.

My list of TODOs is all down to really small things. I cracked the front license plate holder, need to fix that, I'd like to find that one pin ground connector for the PCV, etc.

Long story short: We did it.

 

[Littleant]

Great news Cody. Well done. Reading all your post on you doing this job was like watching a TV series. Hopefully there is no season 2

 

[codysmith105]

This has been a whopping learning experience, but I'm glad I did it even if in the end I'm not so sure if it was financially all that different than going to a garage. At least I now know my car inside and out and am equipped with a metric ****load of tools to deal with a lot of issues myself.

THANK YOU GUYS so much for all the help. I'd happily buy any of you a cold one if you ever find yourself in Silicon Valley.

For those of you coming here in the future with this issue, PM me. We'll Skype or call or whatever and I'll be able to walk you through what you may or may not decide to get yourself into.

Photo Album link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/M7yLHxjuqEknx6G39

 

[donalds]

Trust me it was cheaper than a shop

 

[codysmith105]

Trust me it was cheaper than a shop

The $300 rental car + $200 flight dad took to help me
The $600 rental car + $300 flight dad took (the second time)
$300 leak down test to identify the problem
$150 new battery (we cooked the old one by leaving it in the car, but it was time for a new one anyway)
$55 oil change that was almost immediately poured into a bucket
Let's say $60 for fluids we replaced (oil, PS, coolant)
$160 engine hoist (resellable)
$150 timing kit (resellable)
$50 transmission jack (resellable)
$70 engine stand (resellable)
About $700 in tools (which I'm keeping)
Probably $200 just in bolts
$300 Cloyes kit
$70 new Coil Pack (which I technically didn't need)
At least $100 in Uber trips because of the 2-3 month downtime
$80 emissions test I blew which luckily I don't have to pay for again because I've decided to keep it registered in CO for now

This is nowhere near a complete list.

But actually, yeah even so probably cheaper than $4,500 garage quote.

Oh a few PRO TIPS for you guys.

1. If the timing kit is missing the 4x M4 bolts, use the 4x M4 bolts from the hood.

2. Oil the damn TTY bolts before installation

3. Make sure you snug the torque wrench collar so you don't end up at the wrong torque value and end up snapping the single TTY bolt that completely holds the camshaft in time like I did

4. Power steering fluid comes in bottles colored and shaped just like oil. DON'T PRIME the tensioners with PS fluid like a friend of mine may or may not have done...

5. Don't bend the PCM pins, it's doesn't appreciate that very much

6. **** the guys at O'Reilly Auto Parts at 576 S Murphy Ave, Sunnyvale, CA 94086 for giving me a bearing puller after I walked 2 miles to get there in need of a harmonic balance puller and subsequently spent an hour trying to use it to get the balancer off to no avail, then to discover that they double charged me for the rental and called me "Chad" after I got pissed off at them (I guess that's a slur against single white males? whatever).

7. Got a starting problem? I fell bad for you son, check 99 connectors before you...

8. If you have a 4x4 like I did, may God have mercy on your soul. Invest in some ramps, and nice tall jack stands and a decent step ladder. You're going to need it.

9. Bendy wrenches are ****ing amazing! Buy a set if you don't already have them immediately.