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P0420 and P0430 Codes

The codes read as follows:

P0430: Catalyst System Efficiency → Below Threshold → Bank 2
P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency – Below Threshold

It seems your bank 2 catalyst is the problem. Before replacing it you could try a catalyst cleaner like cataclean. You could also run a couple of tanks of premium gas, it would be ideal to drive in the highway/freeway. A road trip would be ideal.
Hi,
We don’t have catalcean here only liqui molly. Will give it a try and see results. For fuel we have PG-91 and PG-95 here in Saudi Arabia. I use PG-91 on my explorer 2013.
So you want me to add PG-95 half tank with liqui molly ?
 



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i keep getting p0420 and p0430 code. can anyone guide to pin point exactly what and where to check.
did some quick scanning , attached screenshot from FORScan.
Can't make out the legend on the left side of the screenshot. Re-run showing only the upstream and downstream O2 voltages from both banks (4 traces). Those will tell whether or not the converters are working.

"Premium" gas will have zero effect. Never heard of "liqui molly". Maybe they have a product that's supposed to "clean" or otherwise give the converters a bit of a chemical refurbishment.

No idea whether or not you're subjected to emissions testing or not. If not, you can just install a couple of anti-fouler type spacers to back the downstream sensors out of the flow and that will usually keep the computer happy enough to keep the MIL off. Sometimes, it takes two of them stacked to make it appear to work right.

Of course, replacing the converters is the "responsible" repair if they have gone chemically inactive.
 






............................ Never heard of "liqui molly". s...................................
I guess you're not a fan of Formula 1 (F1) racing. There are advertising banners galore around the track. :)

Peter
 






Can't make out the legend on the left side of the screenshot. Re-run showing only the upstream and downstream O2 voltages from both banks (4 traces). Those will tell whether or not the converters are working.

"Premium" gas will have zero effect. Never heard of "liqui molly". Maybe they have a product that's supposed to "clean" or otherwise give the converters a bit of a chemical refurbishment.

No idea whether or not you're subjected to emissions testing or not. If not, you can just install a couple of anti-fouler type spacers to back the downstream sensors out of the flow and that will usually keep the computer happy enough to keep the MIL off. Sometimes, it takes two of them stacked to make it appear to work right.

Of course, replacing the converters is the "responsible" repair if they have gone chemically inactive.

new screenshot attached, I hope now it’s clear. Rpm also included. I did check for exhaust leaks but nothing, tried the bang on catalyst converter test - nothing .
could it be a bad MAF sensor ?

F2D5696D-373C-4190-8657-F06FE11FB997.jpeg
 






Can't make out the legend on the left side of the screenshot. Re-run showing only the upstream and downstream O2 voltages from both banks (4 traces). Those will tell whether or not the converters are working.

"Premium" gas will have zero effect. Never heard of "liqui molly". Maybe they have a product that's supposed to "clean" or otherwise give the converters a bit of a chemical refurbishment.

No idea whether or not you're subjected to emissions testing or not. If not, you can just install a couple of anti-fouler type spacers to back the downstream sensors out of the flow and that will usually keep the computer happy enough to keep the MIL off. Sometimes, it takes two of them stacked to make it appear to work right.

Of course, replacing the converters is the "responsible" repair if they have gone chemically inactive.
Hi,

another screenshot from 10-15 mins city drive with AC on.
advise me please. its really frustrating seeing that CEL on.

1626830957703.png
 






Hi,
We don’t have catalcean here only liqui molly. Will give it a try and see results. For fuel we have PG-91 and PG-95 here in Saudi Arabia. I use PG-91 on my explorer 2013.
So you want me to add PG-95 half tank with liqui molly ?
Always follow the instructions of the cleaner, you want the correct amount of fuel in the tank. If liqui Moly says 15 gallons, for example, I would at least have that, not less.
 












2nd time I've seen a water pump cause a p0420 code. Customer's 2015 explorer w/150k. Started leaking from the water pump a week after the CEL came on. It's getting water pump and timing chain today.

20211118_080750.jpg
 






2013 XLT w/266,000 miles. Check engine light on majority of time however will go out for 200 - 300 miles. I have ck'ed codes when light is lit and get both P420 and P430 (no other mechanical codes). I am definitely not mechanically inclined but assume when a catalytic converter goes bad it stays bad, or if not it would be quite coincidental for both converters to "unfail" at the same time in order for the ck engine light to go out. Am I totally off base here? If not two bad cats what would be common to them that would occasionally clear itself? Thanks in advance.
 






2013 XLT w/266,000 miles. Check engine light on majority of time however will go out for 200 - 300 miles. I have ck'ed codes when light is lit and get both P420 and P430 (no other mechanical codes). I am definitely not mechanically inclined but assume when a catalytic converter goes bad it stays bad, or if not it would be quite coincidental for both converters to "unfail" at the same time in order for the ck engine light to go out. Am I totally off base here? If not two bad cats what would be common to them that would occasionally clear itself? Thanks in advance.
Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
Your thread was moved to this existing one on the same code issues. There are some others on this as well.
Good luck.

Peter
 






New to me ‘15 explorer sport/3.5 ecoboost recently had a check engine light come on. P0420 and P0430.
Not to familiar with turbo engines.

Erased the codes and noticed a “permanent” P0430 in the system and after around 20 miles or so the light came back on.

After viewing live data at idle, I noticed O2 sensor B2 S2 switched rapidly(bad cat) while other times it seems steady. The downstream sensors on bank 1 and 2 voltages are way off from each other,normal?
Also it seems another issue causes the cats to go bad so I included fuel trims as well.

Does this seem like a “lazy O2 sensor or another bad cat situation. Thanks a lot.

IMG_2511.jpeg


IMG_2509.jpeg


IMG_2508.jpeg
 






Its not uncommon for the turbos to leak oil into the exhaust and foul the 02 sensors. I would do a thorough inspection of all turbo piping and see of oil is found anywhere before just putting new sensors in it. If the turbos are found to be leaky they should be replaced first.
 






Its not uncommon for the turbos to leak oil into the exhaust and foul the 02 sensors. I would do a thorough inspection of all turbo piping and see of oil is found anywhere before just putting new sensors in it. If the turbos are found to be leaky they should be replaced first.
Like I said I’m new to turbo engines, I’m assuming if the turbo is leaking oil into the exhaust there would also be oil leaking into the air side piping as well?
Would that be the best/easiest place to start checking?
 






Yes. Also check the turbo housing to see if its wet/black. The rear turbo is easier to see through the passenger wheel well. Front turbo is visible from under front bumper on driver side.
 






New to me ‘15 explorer sport/3.5 ecoboost recently had a check engine light come on. P0420 and P0430.
Not to familiar with turbo engines.

Erased the codes and noticed a “permanent” P0430 in the system and after around 20 miles or so the light came back on.

After viewing live data at idle, I noticed O2 sensor B2 S2 switched rapidly(bad cat) while other times it seems steady. The downstream sensors on bank 1 and 2 voltages are way off from each other,normal?
Also it seems another issue causes the cats to go bad so I included fuel trims as well.

Does this seem like a “lazy O2 sensor or another bad cat situation. Thanks a lot.
Your thread was merged with this existing one on the same issue. Here is another that may be of interest.

Peter
 






I've been getting the catalytic converter bank 2 code (I believe it's p0430) for about 3 years now. At first there were no symptoms, I took it to autozone, they suggested using cataclean which I did, it cleared the code for a few days and came back, tried that a few times, code kept coming back. About a year and a half ago I started experiencing symptoms: loss of power, hesitating, bucking, probably misfiring. I replaced the spark plugs and manifold gasket a little over a year ago, still having the same issue. A few months after that I had the catalytic converter bank 2 replaced, I believe the place I took it to got the part from O'Reilly so not an OEM part, at first this seemed to make it run better, not 100% but that didn't last long, still experiencing the hesitating and misfiring/bucking. About a month ago I took it to a shop that was recommended to me that apparently is great at diagnosing issues, they think it's still the catalytic converter. They did say the bank 1 converter is getting the correct percentage but bank 2 is high. I'm trying to figure out what is actually causing the high percentage to bank 2 before I go replacing the converter again. This is the only code that comes up.

Not sure if this could be the cause but about 4 years ago I think I had a rodent chew through my fuel line since they're made with soy, at the top next to the engine. I'll try to include a picture but this has been my fix for now. I've had to replace the small piece of fuel line you can see that's connected to the brass connector and the quick connector a few times. This of course isn't a permanent solution but has worked. I'd love to know if there's a better solution here besides spending the $1,000 plus for a new fuel line replacement.
But I bring this up because I'm wondering if this might be causing the bank 2 converter issues. Maybe since the brass piece has a smaller opening it's restricting and messing up the proper fuel flow?

20220409_181627.jpg
 






I have no idea what might have been meant by "high percentage". Were there any PIDs that were relayed to you?

It's unlikely that the hose repair is in any way related to converter concerns.

Have the shop who replaced the converter check to see if the replacement part has any warranty. Aftermarket converters sold by O'Reilly's for example tend to have either a 5 year or a lifetime warranty, depending on what was purchased.
 






I don't know why I said percentage but he was referring to a rich or lean fuel/air mixture. I wish I would've had them write it down but I believe he said the bank 1 cat was normal, I feel like he gave a number of 8 or 9, the bank 2 cat was high, I feel like he gave a number of 15.
 






I don't know why I said percentage but he was referring to a rich or lean fuel/air mixture. I wish I would've had them write it down but I believe he said the bank 1 cat was normal, I feel like he gave a number of 8 or 9, the bank 2 cat was high, I feel like he gave a number of 15.
Welcome to the Forum. :wave:

Peter
 



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